07 Spongy front brake, bleeding didn't help - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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07 Spongy front brake, bleeding didn't help

Everybody praises the feel and overall brilliance of the front brake but my lever needs to be pulled 2 cm before even actuating the brakes and even though I can control the braking, I feel that the lever is spongy. Bleeding didn't do anything with this phenomenon (All brake fluid was replaced when the bike was on inspection in the dealership - I would have done it myself but that would void my warranty. I doubt they didn't bleed it right though).

I can't pull the lever all the way to the handlebar, but it's getting very close.

Is it possible that I have to prime the master cylinder? Any other ideas? The bike is fairly new - 6300 km on it, bought it with 4500 km and it did have spongy brakes when I bought it, I though bleeding the brakes would clear this up. Bike is excellent otherwise.

A friend said that I should push the front lever with a cord and leave it overnight, that might force the air upwards. I doubt that but will try it tonight :-D

On the other hand, my rear brake is very sharp and I can nicely control rear braking and even skid and slide for fun sometimes ;-)
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 08:09 PM
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Doing work yourself will NOT void your warranty. It's against federal law for a manufacturer to not honour the warranty unless the part(s) were visibly damaged via accident or improper use.

Try bleeding the brakes yourself. First at the calipers, and then at the master cylinder. Just bleeding at the calipers wont get all of the air out of the system.
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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Well I am pretty sure our laws are a bit different than yours. I live in Czech Republic, Europe. If I didn't have the bike "inspected" by the dealership (authorized service), I wouldn't have the warranty. On the other hand, we have 2+ year warranty on pretty much everything...

It's not that I can't bleed it myself, I can, but they would have done it again no matter what. And I am pretty sure they replaced all brake fluid with new one, bled through the caliper bleeding screw. I will ask the mechanic to be sure and I will rebleed it when I get home.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 08:18 PM
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Ah, yeah, out of state stuff sucks. Might want to find a different dealership with a competent mechanic.
post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, and I am being paranoid and anal about the warranty :-D I won't have any in 2 months anyways, but still - this is my first non wrecked bike that I didn't have to fix over winter ;-)

It pisses me off that they supposedly spend 3 hours replacing engine oil (I can do it in 30 minutes including the filter), 2 hours brake bleeding (that's just ridiculous and they probably have done it wrong), ...

So do you think the mechanic might have run out of brake fluid in the reservoir and might have sucked in some air and didn't bleed it out properly? Or he was being cheap and just replaced the top portion that is visible in the reservoir.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 08:41 PM
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If I had to take a guess, he only bled the brakes at the caliper. It happens a lot, and people either forget about the master cylinder bleed port, or just chose not to do it. I've forgotten to bleed the master cylinder before and spent a good 2 hours freaking out trying to figure out why my brakes were bad before I remembered it.
post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-04-2010, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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There is nothing about master cylinder bleed port in the service manual for 07 :-( Or maybe I am blind, but I read section 16-8 - air bleeding and they mention 2 caliper bleeding ports for the front and 1 caliper bleeding port for the rear.
Do I use the same technique but with the bleed port instead? Just squeze the lever, open the port, close port, release lever, repeat.
Do I have to bleed using the caliper ports again?

The brakes are not disastrous! It might still be just me not being familiar with the bike and seeing problems where there aren't any. I definitely can brake confidently and stop the bike very quickly heating the rotors, etc. The lever moves completely freely, then it switches the brake light switch making audible noise, then it moves freely a tiny bit more and then the brake engages. I set the brake lever to position 2 and I can move it approximately 3 cm to the grip. When I really push on it, it feels spongy, but I can brake very hard with 2 fingers.

I am having a track day on Friday, so I might just ask the guys and I think they could bleed it. My friend even has the same bike so we will compare it.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-04-2010, 03:05 PM
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You have ASV levers by any chance?



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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-04-2010, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kulik View Post
There is nothing about master cylinder bleed port in the service manual for 07 :-( Or maybe I am blind, but I read section 16-8 - air bleeding and they mention 2 caliper bleeding ports for the front and 1 caliper bleeding port for the rear.
Do I use the same technique but with the bleed port instead? Just squeze the lever, open the port, close port, release lever, repeat.
Do I have to bleed using the caliper ports again?

The brakes are not disastrous! It might still be just me not being familiar with the bike and seeing problems where there aren't any. I definitely can brake confidently and stop the bike very quickly heating the rotors, etc. The lever moves completely freely, then it switches the brake light switch making audible noise, then it moves freely a tiny bit more and then the brake engages. I set the brake lever to position 2 and I can move it approximately 3 cm to the grip. When I really push on it, it feels spongy, but I can brake very hard with 2 fingers.

I am having a track day on Friday, so I might just ask the guys and I think they could bleed it. My friend even has the same bike so we will compare it.
If you look at the pictures on page 16-8, you'll see where they're bleeding at the master cylinder. Can't miss the bleed valve there. Air will get trapped in the upper portion of the system.
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-04-2010, 06:55 PM
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Not sure what that would matter?
Maybe if his setting was a one your thinking? I have these levers and even at level one setting its not mushy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by powermoose1 View Post
You have ASV levers by any chance?

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-06-2010, 05:04 PM
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I've been having similar issues. I just bought and installed speed bleeders for the calipers, did another round of bleeding at the calipers, then at the master cylindar. I've now got the lever zip tied and will do another round of bleeding tomorrow night.

I do have ASV levers ... why would this matter?
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