Twitchy Brakes - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Twitchy Brakes

When im braking with my front brakes, its really jumpy even though im applying a steady pressure, like my tires a football almost. even when i dont brake that hard.

Its really annoying me and ive searched around and the only conclusions i can come to are, flat spots in tires(from storage maybe), its a 06 and it sat for the first 2 years of its life(2400kms). and the few kms it was running it was more than likly doing lil wheelies so i was told that could cause flat spots. and for a year after that it sat on the showroom floor..

Also i noticed befor when i turn my bike off while im rolling i can hear the disk hit the pad then move away then hit again etc..etc.. so one or both of the disks are slightly bent, you can't feel it while driving but could that be casuing my twitchy brake problems. my front tire is stock so its has 8900kms on it now so its pretty bald and in bad shape.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 03:55 PM
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Replace the front tire, front brake rotors and pads, then report back.

'07 White/Silver 600RR
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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give me $1000+ and ill do exactly that then report back

06 Sliver RR
-PC3
-Two Bros exaust
-8000k DDM HID's (w.lowbeam switch)
-CF tank gaurd
-Flush Mounts
-Fender Eliminator
-Intagraded Tail Lights
-Pitbull Swingarm Spools
-Led Accent Lights
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 07:31 PM
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I wouldn't think tire cause if it was that out of round... you'd feel it all the time.
Rotors are floating so even though they sound bent... they're prolly not.
Pads, I still run stock pads so I don't know what to recommend. I'd start with a good set of pads first.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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^^ thanks, the pad and everything are orignal too so they might be on there way out as well as the tire!

06 Sliver RR
-PC3
-Two Bros exaust
-8000k DDM HID's (w.lowbeam switch)
-CF tank gaurd
-Flush Mounts
-Fender Eliminator
-Intagraded Tail Lights
-Pitbull Swingarm Spools
-Led Accent Lights
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-Custom Krazy Eyes
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-13-2010, 11:13 PM
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measure your thickness. If your disks are thicker than stock, throw them out! It is a very rare problem, but does happen, dust can just build up and up over time depending on pad compounds, and the rotors can get thicker. Also, check for thickness consistency. If they are to thin you will also have to replace them. You can get a cheap micrometer for $7-14 from harborfreight, well worth the investment as you can use it when measuring internal engine parts during a rebuild, or to measure valve shims that have the numbers on them worn off.

If it's been sitting for a long time visually inspect them. If there is corrosion or pitting on the rotor that might be a problem. Light corrosion or oil (if your fork seals are leaking) can be removed from driving about half a mile with light pressure applied. Same thing you do to clean your rotors if you get mud on them.

Also I would reccomend a new set of stock brake pads. Some aftermarket pads can generate enough heat to warp your disk's, so, go with a well known brand, or be safe and go OEM.

snap some pics if you get a lot of free time on your hands, it might help

also compare the roughness of the disk to another set if you can. shoudnt be rough enough at any spot to grab the pad

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Last edited by michaelwood; 05-13-2010 at 11:20 PM.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelwood View Post
measure your thickness. If your disks are thicker than stock, throw them out! It is a very rare problem, but does happen, dust can just build up and up over time depending on pad compounds, and the rotors can get thicker. Also, check for thickness consistency. If they are to thin you will also have to replace them. You can get a cheap micrometer for $7-14 from harborfreight, well worth the investment as you can use it when measuring internal engine parts during a rebuild, or to measure valve shims that have the numbers on them worn off.

If it's been sitting for a long time visually inspect them. If there is corrosion or pitting on the rotor that might be a problem. Light corrosion or oil (if your fork seals are leaking) can be removed from driving about half a mile with light pressure applied. Same thing you do to clean your rotors if you get mud on them.

Also I would reccomend a new set of stock brake pads. Some aftermarket pads can generate enough heat to warp your disk's, so, go with a well known brand, or be safe and go OEM.

snap some pics if you get a lot of free time on your hands, it might help

also compare the roughness of the disk to another set if you can. shoudnt be rough enough at any spot to grab the pad
thanks for the info! i would never have thought in a milloin years that they could get thicker. weirdbut ill give it a shot, along with the other stuff.. It was sitting for a while but since i had it i put 6000+ kms on it. i cant remember noticing it when i first started riding, but it could very well be rim cleaner or something on the disk, because i dont really notice it all the time. its been a while since anything would have got on my disks so when it stops raining ill try it out. but when i first noticed it last year i didnt really clean my bike much but now its all i do is pick at it. But who knows could have been something else on it, i know my dad cleaned it a few times casue he used to bug me to casue but i wouldnt it gets lots of attention now though. anyway back on topic, thanks again man, i think that could be it, i feel dumb for starting a thread on this now lol, never thought of that.

06 Sliver RR
-PC3
-Two Bros exaust
-8000k DDM HID's (w.lowbeam switch)
-CF tank gaurd
-Flush Mounts
-Fender Eliminator
-Intagraded Tail Lights
-Pitbull Swingarm Spools
-Led Accent Lights
-Black Windy
-Custom Krazy Eyes
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-17-2010, 01:02 AM
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warped rotors, not pads and not tires
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