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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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What kind of switch...

What kind of switch is the starter switch?

i had a small problem with my switches, specifically, the starter switch, and am looking to ghetto wire it until i can find a replacement switch set, or afford OEM...

free (unpressed) it connects the headlight wires, which is Bl/R and Bu/W (if i can read the fuzz right)
and pressed its the y/r and bl

if im thinking right, this should be a dpst momentary correct?


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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 11:26 PM
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i think you are correct sir should complete while surpressed and open when not.


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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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it needs to complete one circuit when depressed, and another when not


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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 11:31 PM
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You just need a simple momentary switch rated for 12v or higher.
post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demented View Post
You just need a simple momentary switch rated for 12v or higher.
a simple single pole momentary would work, if i splice together the headlight wires permanantly (which is doable)

but i need 2 circuits, 4 contacts, to do it with a single switch, and have it be proper...


this is just a temp fix, i can do 10 dollars atm, but not 80 bucks that the switch assembly runs for OEM (grumble)


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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 11:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenjin View Post
a simple single pole momentary would work, if i splice together the headlight wires permanantly (which is doable)

but i need 2 circuits, 4 contacts, to do it with a single switch, and have it be proper...


this is just a temp fix, i can do 10 dollars atm, but not 80 bucks that the switch assembly runs for OEM (grumble)
Half the price of OE, 10x more reliable.
http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInf...oductid=E60016
post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demented View Post
Half the price of OE, 10x more reliable.
http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInf...oductid=E60016


that would leave the end of the throttle tube where the throttle cablesgo open correct?

and still not something i can afford atm

i had to replace a 1000 dollar switch this week, and several other things.


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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 11:56 PM
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It would just replace the start/kill switch that's on there now. You could just cut the wire harness for the stock switch, solder wires together where needed, and run it through one switch. If all that is needed is a temp one, it will work to start it. The open/closed circuit for the kill switch would be permanently closed.
post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-07-2010, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demented View Post
It would just replace the start/kill switch that's on there now. You could just cut the wire harness for the stock switch, solder wires together where needed, and run it through one switch. If all that is needed is a temp one, it will work to start it. The open/closed circuit for the kill switch would be permanently closed.
right, but the current kill switch / start button housing also encloses the end of the throttle tube, which im not keen on leaving open, there for the replacement yoyodyne isnt something im entirely interested, yea, i know, its more reliable and all, but meh.

as far as temp, i know what i want to do, i just dont know exactly what type of switch im looking for

i know a standard momentary will work just fine for my purposes, but then i would have to hard wire the lights together (which is how they basically are when the start switch is not pushed in)

there are 4 wires that go to it

you press the start switch it disconnects the headlight circuit, engages the starter circuit

release the button it disengages the starter circuit engages the headlight circuit again

and i just need to verify which switch type it is that does that

all the dpst switches i see, seem to control both circuits on or off, at the same time

throw, both on, let go, both off

i need throw 1 on, let go, other on so i can make a temp fix

if its that difficult to find out what switch, ill just splice the 2 headlight wires together and use a standard momentary for the start switch

every thing is relay ran so im not worried about amps and crap like that.

ie: im trying to getto fix it, and have it work the same way as OEM, if i cant find a switch to handle that, then ill be perfectly happy ghetto fixing it a different way

i know what NEEDS to be done, i just dont know the proper term for the switch when i goto the electronics store tommorow.


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Last edited by tenjin; 08-07-2010 at 12:13 AM.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-07-2010, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenjin View Post
a simple single pole momentary would work, if i splice together the headlight wires permanantly (which is doable)

but i need 2 circuits, 4 contacts, to do it with a single switch, and have it be proper...


this is just a temp fix, i can do 10 dollars atm, but not 80 bucks that the switch assembly runs for OEM (grumble)
heh heh he said pole



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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-07-2010, 12:34 AM
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Forgot about the big ass switch/throttle assembly Honda used to use.
post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-07-2010, 02:01 AM
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Your after a dpdt momentary

One side of the poles will be on and the other off, when you throw it, they swap.
You need double throw, one for the starter the other for the headlight.

Wire your headlight to the n/c contacts and the starter to the other throw on the n/o contacts.

I.e.

Headlights to contacts a and c
Starter to contacts d and f

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-07-2010, 02:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico View Post
Your after a dpdt momentary

One side of the poles will be on and the other off, when you throw it, they swap.
You need double throw, one for the starter the other for the headlight.

Wire your headlight to the n/c contacts and the starter to the other throw on the n/o contacts.

I.e.

Headlights to contacts a and c
Starter to contacts d and f

wonder if honda hid the extra lugs...

as the switch in the housing is a 4 terminal switch..



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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-07-2010, 03:56 AM
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Nope, its set up very differently inside, honda one looks something like this:

1 2
O|O

O O
3 4

When you press on the switch it goes from shorting out 1 and 2 (headlights) to shorting 3 and 4 (start)

whereas the one your looking at replacing it with will be more like:

___
O O O
1 2 3

when you press it it goes from shorting 1 and 2 to shorting 2 and 3.
Thats why you need double throw, headlight is wired to 1 and 2, then on the second throw start is wired to 2 and 3.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-07-2010, 11:27 AM
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you'll be wanting one of these

Mouser's located in TX which works better for you.
This one's momentary in the one direction, so it'll work just like your starter switch. With solder lugs, it'll look just like the picture.

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