Inline fuse from battery randomly blows! Need help! - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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Inline fuse from battery randomly blows! Need help!

my fuse from the battery keeps blowing randomly. i took the bike apart followed the wire and the wiring on the bike looks brand new! i think one of the components are going bad because i could ride the bike for a whole hour and let it sit for a few mins go ride again and it would blow 50ft down the block, it has also blown on me on a cold start so its very random. PLEASEEE HELP im going crazy not knowing what it could be its been sitting in the garage for 8 months and im finally finding time to fix it..

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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 08:54 PM
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Trace the wires again and find the short in the system, and replace or fix the short or component that is bad.
post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 08:56 PM
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I am still searching for a link to the shop manual the links i had for the 05 / 06 RR do not work any more



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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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i checked the wires i used my fluke 902 clamp meter. the wires are 100% good. so my next idea was a bad component but which components are on the same circuit.. im really stumped with this one. ive been reading alot about these bikes having the same fuse issue and no one really has an answer. i really appreciate your help moeman!

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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 09:12 PM
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Is it the 30A main fuse or the 20A fuse that is blowing?
post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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i forgot the size but its the inline fuse thats coming directly off of the battery. theres a wire and the fuse is like 6 inches or so after it

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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 09:27 PM
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so its only the main power fuse?

if so, im going to apply where my logic would take me..

main fuse is larger than all the other fuses ... so if it was something on the non powered side of the fuse, other fuses would be blowing before it, no?

with that said, lets make sure ALL the fuses in the fuse box are good, and nothing is circumvented (fused with a piece of wire for example, because some one was too lazy to trouble shoot why a specific fuse keeps blowing.)

if its nothing like that

my next step would be to ask what electrical mods are installed, how are they installed, and through what fuse are they wired in to the system? -- Does the system get better if said mods are disconnected?

Does any one know of a stock component that would not be in the standard fuse block, i can think of one, maybe, the starter .... but this SHOULD NOT be causing massive power draw on the main fuse, unless its getting stuck on?

from there...

What side of the fuse is the actual charging system on? what i mean... does it go stator, rectifier, fuse, battery .... or stator rectifier, battery fuse?

if fuse before battery it would be possible that the rectifier, or stator is shorting causing high current demands to go backwords through the fuse, possibly causing it to implode ;) (not because of direction of flow, but because it surpases the rating)

from there, if the OP is dead set certain that its not a short in the wires, perhaps some how a short on the battery it self is exploding things?

and then there is the obvious, you missed something, just cause you have a fluke wtf ever, doesnt mean you know how to use it (im not trying to be an *******) but i have handed smart enough people a 1000 dollar fluke network tester who look at me like im a moron cause they havnt got a clue how to use it, but can wire a network blindly.


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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 09:30 PM
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That's a whole bunch of stuff on that circuit. If you traced the entire wire/circuit, you'd have found the issue, unless you stopped before you got to the engine stop relay.

From there you have the fuel cut relay, Pin 25 of the 32p black connector on the ECM, Fan control relay, PAIR valve, DLC connector, Pin 16 of the 32p of the gray connector on the ECM, O2 sensors if you have them, Pin 20 of the 32p black connector on the ECM, fuel pump, secondary and primary fuel injectors, the exhaust control valve, and I think that's it.

The one connected directly to the battery is a 20A fuse while the main fuse is a 30A.
post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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i just looked and its the inline 20 amp fuse not the 30 amp.. when the issue started i had an intergrated tail light, led blinkers and the led license plate but ive had that for an entire year before the issue even started. its like this started happening out of no where. after the issue occured i put installed the power commander 3 the same day that i put a new 20 amp fuse so i know for a fact it has nothing to do with any components i installed. all of the fuses in the fuse box is fine.

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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 09:51 PM
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The tail light isn't on the same circuit as the stuff above, so that isn't the issue.
post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 09:52 PM
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How about a loose ground wire ?



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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 09:54 PM
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How about a loose ground wire ?
A bad ground wont cause a fuse to blow.
post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 09:57 PM
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I've got the shop manual PDF. PM me an e-mail address if you need it and i'll send it to you. The link I pulled from seems to be dead.
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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thanks tom i pmed u.. and no i didnt think the tail light was on the same circuit and no loose grounds anywhere.

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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 10:08 PM
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Tom
Thanks for supplying a link to a shop manual that will save me from looking some more



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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 10:14 PM
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I dont have an active link. I've got the PDF but its too big to throw in an e-mail. Anybody know how to compress it, break it into pieces, or know a place I can upload for everyone to get access?
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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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tom do you have aim? ill give you my screen name and you can send it to me that way

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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 10:24 PM
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I now have AIM.
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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thanks alot tom! im going to look over this service manual and i will keep you guys posted on what i do and what happens

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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010, 08:26 AM
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Chances are that its only blowing when you apply a certain amount of pressure on a particular point on the bike... That fuse only feeds the engine stop relay and then from there the fuel stop relay and onto the fuel pump.

Get your bike running and then start applying pressure to various parts of the top and left hand side of the bike cause your problem is a crushed wire, when you apply pressure the wire shorts out and pops your fuse, find where to apply pressure and the crushed wire will be directly underneath that point.
This method also has the added bonus of working even if the problem is in a taped up part of the harness and you don't have to remove all of your fairings to find it!
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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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Yea but I took the bile apart twice a nd all of the wires are it the right spot. Tom sent me the service manual to look at the diagram. I installed inline fuses to each component so if something draws too much it will blow the fuse right before the component that is going bad but the only issue now is I gotta ride the bike until it pops the fuse and I dont wanna be stuck on the side of the road

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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 12:08 PM
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Yea but I took the bile apart twice a nd all of the wires are it the right spot. Tom sent me the service manual to look at the diagram. I installed inline fuses to each component so if something draws too much it will blow the fuse right before the component that is going bad but the only issue now is I gotta ride the bike until it pops the fuse and I dont wanna be stuck on the side of the road
There is absolutely no way that you installed a fuse behind the fuel cut relay, Pin 25 of the 32p black connector on the ECM, Fan control relay, PAIR valve, DLC connector, Pin 16 of the 32p of the gray connector on the ECM, O2 sensors if you have them, Pin 20 of the 32p black connector on the ECM, fuel pump, secondary and primary fuel injectors, and the exhaust control valve.

If you did install fuses, you'll only be in more problems with the fuel injector lines having more resistance than is wanted.

Also, if you properly looked over your wire harness and the components, you'd have easily found the bad component with the use of a multimeter. Inspecting the wires isn't something like visually looking at it and determining that it is good, especially when you have multiple wires in bundles wrapped in electrical tape.
post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOVAK7669 View Post
Yea but I took the bile apart twice a nd all of the wires are it the right spot. Tom sent me the service manual to look at the diagram. I installed inline fuses to each component so if something draws too much it will blow the fuse right before the component that is going bad but the only issue now is I gotta ride the bike until it pops the fuse and I dont wanna be stuck on the side of the road
Just because they are in the right spot and 'look ok' doesn't mean they are...

When your riding you will be applying force to a particular spot every now and then, that's when your fuse is blowing.
Almost all electrical and electronic components go open when they fail not short so the chances of it being a component going bad are remote, and if that was the case it would blow all the time not at seemingly random times.
When you blow fuses %99.99 of the time the problem is a damaged wiring harness.

Press on the fairings, find the location of the problem, carefully inspect the harness under that point, including removing tape from the harness and you should find a damaged wire.
Short of that your best option is to completely replace the whole thing, and if you don't want to listen to us that is what you will end up doing when you take it to the dealer.
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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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i took the tape off already though. i literally took everything apart. fairings, gas tank, wire harness etc. i also brought it to champion honda in hicksville ny expleined to them exectly what happened and they couldnt find the problem either thats what made me upset that if a hond place cant fix it then how the hell am i gna be able to fix it. its the most random thing. i really should maybe the fuel pump could possibly be going bad because it could stop every once in a while and pop a fuse

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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 08:42 PM
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You can fix it by doing what we're telling you to do to fix it.
post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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damn this whole thing is frustrating i havent been able to ride since march. how much would the wire harness cost me?

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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 08:53 PM
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Depends on if it's a new or used one, but it's not cheap. You don't even know if the problem is a component (they can cause short failure that don't occur all the time. Less likely for this to happen, but it's not impossible) or in the wire harness itself. It's best to spend the time and find the issue than to start guessing and throwing parts at the bike.
post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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your 100% right. quick question. are there any common issues with the components on this circuit that might be the issue right off hand? i put about 17,xxx miles on the bike. someone told me that they went thru 2 fuel pumps before they hit 16,xxx miles on the bike thats what kinda draws me to the fuel pump could most likey be the issue

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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 09:09 PM
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No common issues that would cause that. The fuel pumps have been known to go bad, but not electrical faults that cause short circuits.

I'm with Nico here and think it's a problem in one of the wires. Wires can be damaged internally but look fine on the outside. That is the hard part about finding a short.
post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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ok but when i checked continuity and wiggled/bent/twisted the wires everything seemed solid

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LED Turn Signals
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LED Flip Plate
Side Axel Plate
Rear Seat Cowl
Carbon Fiber Tank Pad Protector
Carbon Fiber Gas Cap Cover
Power Commander 3
Garmin Nuvi 1300 GPS
SAE Plug Connector
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EBC Contour Rear Rotors
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