Turn signals, Rear taillight, third light, and Instrument panel all don't work... - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Turn signals, Rear taillight, third light, and Instrument panel all don't work...

Crap what did i break lol. I have no light at all on my signals solid running or actual blinking lights. My taillight is completely dark. My display is completely dark EXCEPT for the high beam and the mileage. Nothing else works on the display. And of course the third light is out as well. What did i blow? i was working on connecting something to my battery so i have unplugged and replugged the battery in several times. Thoughts, ideas?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 08:58 PM
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Check your fuses.
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Checked fuses and my illumination 10A was blown. Put in a 20A to see if that helped... When i did my front started smoking. I looked under and the turn signal wire to my left signal was cooking through the wire. Is that because i put a 20 amp in place of the 10? Or do i have a bigger issue?

Thanks btw demented.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 09:18 PM
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Remove the 20A fuse and put a 10A fuse back in. It had a 10A fuse for a reason. Never ever ever ever ever put a higher amperage fuse in to prevent one from blowing.

You just basically bypassed having a fuse which is what is burning your wires. Fix the electrical short, install a 10A fuse, and be done with it.
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Lesson learned:) Now how do i begin to find where the short is? Not sure how i created this short....

Ps i just added heating elements to the bike and connected them directly to the battery...
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 09:38 PM
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Undo everything you did, fix the burnt wire, install 10A fuse and see if it blows again.
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Demented you sir are always helpful and it is much appreciated!
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-28-2010, 09:51 PM
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This is why you don't change fuses, and yes its real...

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...1089188056644#
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-28-2010, 09:59 PM
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Here's another one...

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-29-2010, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Nico View Post
This is why you don't change fuses, and yes its real...
Kind of a jump between a low voltage DC system and a 480v three phase AC industrial panel - don't you think?
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-29-2010, 01:29 AM
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Kind of a jump between a low voltage DC system and a 480v three phase AC industrial panel - don't you think?
Principle is the same and when your talking about 12v at 100+ amps the effect can be very similar as well. Two 24V truck batteries in parallel can be used to weld...
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-29-2010, 01:33 AM
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Hell, two 12v car batteries can be used to weld depending on the amperage.
post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-29-2010, 01:37 AM
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Hell, two 12v car batteries can be used to weld depending on the amperage.
See, you get it!

Now I only have to convince everyone else how dangerous this sh*t can be...
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-29-2010, 01:44 AM
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See, you get it!

Now I only have to convince everyone else how dangerous this sh*t can be...
I was convinced when I was learning how to weld 10 years ago and I became the ground.
post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-29-2010, 02:22 AM
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I was convinced when I was learning how to weld 10 years ago and I became the ground.
LOL - Funny how those things really sink in when it's our own bodies taking the hit eh!

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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-29-2010, 06:24 AM
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I was convinced when I was learning how to weld 10 years ago and I became the ground.
I did the same thing learning to TIG weld!

Had my watch on and the ground was attached to the bench (copper top), steadying one hand with the other against the work piece and my watch was resting on the bench, turns out my watch provided a better ground than the vice!
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