Why oh why...... Just Start Already.... ** problem solved Ground wire ** - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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Why oh why...... Just Start Already.... ** problem solved Ground wire **

oooook so.

End of last season my bike wouldnt turn on. Im dealing with it now. The bike was starting fine and then one night it was acting a little funky and was essentially turning off, and then turning back on. Later that night after the problem had subsided we stopped, i shut the bike off and it wouldnt start back up, was doing something similiar to what it is doing now.

I loaded the bike in a truck to get it home, when i unloaded it i decided to try and start it, and like magic it started up. It ran fine after that for a month or two. and then one day i came out to start it and it would only crank, and no backlight in the gauge.

The current conditions are as follows.



Turn the key and there is a gauge sweep, but gauge backlight doesnt come on, and fuel pump doesnt cycle.

The bike will crank alll day long but it just wont start.
Iv tried push starting.... it wont go.

The neutral light will light up, and the oil light comes on in the gauge, just no white light lighting everything up.

Looking for a solution, or if anyone has had previous symptoms or may have an idea to aid me.....

The bike has been sitting on a trickle charger for the past 5 or so months in the same non starting condition it was in...


thanks in advance, trying to get it right before the season

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post #2 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 12:48 AM
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the guage light and no start could be 2 different faults, check your fuel pump fuses/relay.

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post #3 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Tomorrow i am going to try bypassing the bank angle sensor, and possibly checking the relays.....


The real question i have is the fuel pump isnt priming, ok, theres some possible reasons, but why is the fuel pump not priming and the gauge not lighting, are they related somehow?

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post #4 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 09:45 AM
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Another thing to check is the kill switch. Seems they're a bit unreliable (become intermittent) if you use them regularly when turning off the bike. Open it up and check/clean the internal contacts.
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post #5 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 10:50 AM
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i would doubt kill switch and bas but doesnt hurt to make sure. i would check fuses. a lot of the time, 2 things will be connected through a single fuse. if the problems are related, that would be my guess but wouldnt explain the working on and off. i dont know a whole lot about relays but that could very well be the problem too.
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post #6 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 10:54 AM
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It really does sound like a blow fuse but only way to figure it out is to check

post #7 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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k.... yea im gonna check some of that stuff today..


My thought about it being the kill switch is y would the bike be cranking over and over if it was the kill switch, wouldnt it just not respond?

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post #8 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 01:35 PM
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Start with the simple solutions first
1. Make sure the battery is fully charged
2. Check the fuel pump relay
3. Check the kill switch connectors
4. Check the fuse box

The fuel pump has to prime as soon as you turn the key on any of the issues above
can cause the fuel pump not to prime and with out that the bike will not start



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post #9 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merchominiRR View Post
k.... yea im gonna check some of that stuff today..


My thought about it being the kill switch is y would the bike be cranking over and over if it was the kill switch, wouldnt it just not respond?
That is not true the bike will crank even when the kill switch is switched to the on position it will stop the fuel pump from getting powered ie not start the bike



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post #10 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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That is not true the bike will crank even when the kill switch is switched to the on position it will stop the fuel pump from getting powered ie not start the bike

ok cool, well then that is something else i am going to check, the fuel pump definately isnt priming so im gonna have to check that,

i guess the gauge not lighting could be another problem all together.

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post #11 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 01:47 PM
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The gauge not lighting up might be the main connector being loose or the led back light got burned if it was a fuse the gauge wont function at all

The fuel pump is one of two the relay or the kill switch but it would not hurt to make sure the battery is fully charged a weak battery wont have enough juice to get all the electronics working properly at the same time



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post #12 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moeman View Post
The gauge not lighting up might be the main connector being loose or the led back light got burned if it was a fuse the gauge wont function at all

The fuel pump is one of two the relay or the kill switch but it would not hurt to make sure the battery is fully charged a weak battery wont have enough juice to get all the electronics working properly at the same time
Its been on a trickle charger for about 24 hours, and it wasnt completely dead before so it should have all the juice it needs.

Do you know which relay of the relays operate the pump??

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post #13 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 02:15 PM
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I believe your RR is an 05 / 06 and if i am correct There is 3 relays behind left side mid fairing from memory i think the middle one is the fuel pump relay you might be able to get to it by taking the left side ram air cover have you checked the kill switch connectors ?



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post #14 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Yep its an 05, i found the relays, can i just swap one for the fuel pump one and see if it gets it to prime then i know if its a bad relay, or do i need to get a new one....


So how do i go about checking the kill switch?

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post #15 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 02:42 PM
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You can swap the relays to do the testing as far as the kill switch you have to open the controls and make sure the connections are solid its not that hard



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post #16 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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You can swap the relays to do the testing as far as the kill switch you have to open the controls and make sure the connections are solid its not that hard
Swapped the relays around and it didnt change anything, fuel pump still didnt prime, also the gauge has everything working except the backlight for the record.


When im trying to open the click switch housing it wont come all the way. Iv taken out the two screws in it and it will start to oull up about a half an inch but wont come off, like its getting caught on something.....

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post #17 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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I also went to try and get new relays but auto zone did not have them the guy said if i can get him a wells part number he might be able to find something


whatevr that is

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post #18 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 04:02 PM
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Did you mess around with the Bank angle sensor ( its a black box with an arrow on it and its between the head lights



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post #19 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 04:05 PM
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Browse this forum you should be able to find a few threads talking about taking the kill switch apart its a common reason for low bream head light not working right if i find you a link i will post in i rarely use the kill switch so i never taken one apart



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post #20 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 04:13 PM
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Found it kill switch surgery
https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.p...ight=headlight



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post #21 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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gonna try messing with the bank angle sensor next. Talked to a honda tech, he tried to help a little bit but mainly talked about fuses, he said a kill switch would rarely ever go bad, and he said a bank angle sensor rarely ever goes bad, and he said relays shouldnt go bad that often either. He pretty much garunteed me that if i bring it in he would figure out what the problem is for 50 bucks.

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post #22 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 04:48 PM
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if you have not touched or moved the bank angle sensor before then there is no need
to mess with it



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post #23 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 04:54 PM
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Guarantee it is a bad ground issue... I had a veryyyy similar problem.

Check out my thread: https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=155962

This might help!


This happens all the time, I literally get 1 PM every week about the bad ground thread.
Happens to a lot of people and symptoms are always a little different but always seem
to have No Fuel Pump Priming, Gauge Not On, Headlights Out, Third Eye Out, etccc...
But they all lead back to a bad ground some where in the front harness or head light
harness.


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post #24 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpicanco01 View Post
Guarantee it is a bad ground issue... I had a veryyyy similar problem.

Check out my thread: https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=155962

This might help!


This happens all the time, I literally get 1 PM every week about the bad ground thread.
Happens to a lot of people and symptoms are always a little different but always seem
to have No Fuel Pump Priming, Gauge Not On, Headlights Out, Third Eye Out, etccc...
But they all lead back to a bad ground some where in the front harness or head light
harness.

Well thats some good news, im gonna look through the thread.

I just had to pay to get my forks rebuilt, and i have to do chain and sprockets after i fix this, so if i can figure this one out on my own that would be great.

Thanks for all the help guys

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post #25 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpicanco01 View Post
Guarantee it is a bad ground issue... I had a veryyyy similar problem.

Check out my thread: https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=155962

This might help!


This happens all the time, I literally get 1 PM every week about the bad ground thread.
Happens to a lot of people and symptoms are always a little different but always seem
to have No Fuel Pump Priming, Gauge Not On, Headlights Out, Third Eye Out, etccc...
But they all lead back to a bad ground some where in the front harness or head light
harness.

So you just ran a new ground from the headlight to the battery?

Are there any other grounds that need to be checked or changed.

You said your fuel pump didnt prime, but the bike started.
Mine isnt priming and it isnt starting.

Leo Vince Titanium Slip On
Driven 520 -1 +2 Chain and Sprockets (red)
6k 55w HID (sooo much better)
Driven D3 Grips (white)
Some Oem Silver Fairings to replace my shitty
after market kit i got with it.
Valentino Rossi AGV xr-2 (sweet)

And a BIG to do list.....
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post #26 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merchominiRR View Post
gonna try messing with the bank angle sensor next. Talked to a honda tech, he tried to help a little bit but mainly talked about fuses, he said a kill switch would rarely ever go bad, and he said a bank angle sensor rarely ever goes bad, and he said relays shouldnt go bad that often either. He pretty much garunteed me that if i bring it in he would figure out what the problem is for 50 bucks.
Your honda tech isn't very reliable then... kill switches seem to go bad quite regularly, and relays don't last forever either...

Never heard of a BAS itself going bad though... just the wiring / mounting for it.

Your gauges will more than likely just be a fuse if the tail light doesn't work either.

As for your ground, you will find a little box on the left hand side just below your seat, its probably taped onto the harness, find that sucker and pull it apart and give it a good one over, that is the common point for all of the grounds on your bike and is somewhat prone to corroding.
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post #27 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Your honda tech isn't very reliable then... kill switches seem to go bad quite regularly, and relays don't last forever either...

Never heard of a BAS itself going bad though... just the wiring / mounting for it.

Your gauges will more than likely just be a fuse if the tail light doesn't work either.

As for your ground, you will find a little box on the left hand side just below your seat, its probably taped onto the harness, find that sucker and pull it apart and give it a good one over, that is the common point for all of the grounds on your bike and is somewhat prone to corroding.
Well the taillight works and the rear signals work, headlights arent powering, and front turn signals arent working either.

Gonna check grounds tomorrow maybe, but it all might have to wait until next weekend im thinking.

thanks for the help guys

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Driven D3 Grips (white)
Some Oem Silver Fairings to replace my shitty
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Valentino Rossi AGV xr-2 (sweet)

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post #28 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
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Well the taillight works and the rear signals work, headlights arent powering, and front turn signals arent working either.

Gonna check grounds tomorrow maybe, but it all might have to wait until next weekend im thinking.

thanks for the help guys
Check the ground, and you may need to run a ground wire for the front harness.

To prove it remove the plug from the back of the globe and run a piece of wire from the black wire (in the headlight plug) to the frame of the bike or battery's negative terminal. If it all starts working then its definitely your ground.
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post #29 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico View Post
Your honda tech isn't very reliable then... kill switches seem to go bad quite regularly, and relays don't last forever either...

Never heard of a BAS itself going bad though... just the wiring / mounting for it.

Your gauges will more than likely just be a fuse if the tail light doesn't work either.

As for your ground, you will find a little box on the left hand side just below your seat, its probably taped onto the harness, find that sucker and pull it apart and give it a good one over, that is the common point for all of the grounds on your bike and is somewhat prone to corroding.


Ok so i found a little yellow box with a bunch of green wires running into it, some of the wires are exposed, and theres a lot of dirt on the box itself, i cant get the damn thing open thoiugh and i dont want to break. I feel like this could be the source of my problems tho.


Any tips on getting the sucker open?

Leo Vince Titanium Slip On
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6k 55w HID (sooo much better)
Driven D3 Grips (white)
Some Oem Silver Fairings to replace my shitty
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Valentino Rossi AGV xr-2 (sweet)

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post #30 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 04:27 PM
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Where is that box located ?



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