newbie with new bike but its all bad :-( - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-28-2011, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy newbie with new bike but its all bad :-(

hey guys, i decided to register to this great forum because i just picked up an 03 cbr 600RR off a friend, i drove from ny to virginia to get it and the battery was dead. the bike has been sitting for a few months and was last started in december with no issues,(was jumpstarted off a running car) so i brought the bike home and noticed immediately that all the lights and everything worked down to the t but no fuel pump priming. There is an FI light on the dash. When the kill switch is off the FI light is off and red oil light stays on solid, then i turn the kill switch to run and the oil light goes out then the FI light stays on for 10 seconds then goes off and the oil light comes back on. Its not getting spark. i tried unhooking the harness from the front fairing the two big plugs i put a brand new battery 12.84v currently on a tender too. it cranks but no fire. i no the fuel pump is shot becuase he let it sit with no gas for months and im assuming condensation got the best of it. i drained the gas and tested the fuel pump by connecting it directly to the battery and nothing. i have 11.56v coming from the fuel pump plug but it slowly goes down millivolt by millivolt. i cleaned the kill-switch and tested all the relays and they all click. i replaced the fuel pump fuse under the seat cause it was blown. i am stumped and cannot afford to pay a dealer 70 bucks per hour to diagnose it. i spent every dollar i have on this bike and am broke and a college student. luckily the guy i bought it from is going to pay for the fuel pump. i checked the BAS and its mounted correctly but how do i test if it works? WHY IS THERE NO SPARRRRKKK!!!! PLEASE HELP ME i have searched the forums but cant find the answer to my problem...thank you all ps if i unhook the fuel pump connector does that cut off spark?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-28-2011, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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figured out the spark thing....dont know how but today it worked. thinking the plugs were not grounded so well to the block i picked up new ones that the gap is about .002 bigger than the ones i took out the guys at auto zone said its fine becaus emine had cabon build up but cant always trust those guys.. what do u think
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by chevyboy View Post
figured out the spark thing....dont know how but today it worked. thinking the plugs were not grounded so well to the block i picked up new ones that the gap is about .002 bigger than the ones i took out the guys at auto zone said its fine becaus emine had cabon build up but cant always trust those guys.. what do u think
Unless you have the correct plugs (NGK part number IMR9C-9HE) you are going to have problems... and if its the same over there as here 95% of the guys at auto zone have about as much knowledge of cars / bikes as a check out chick... you need the right plugs or your just going to either chase your tail or have more issues down the track.

See how you go once you have the new fuel pump, and are you sure you connected the fuel pump to your battery correctly when you tested it?

Between the pump and getting the correct plugs you should be good to go.

As for the reducing multimeter voltage, that may simply be due to a slight amount of capacitance in the circuit (even wires running next to each other can cause it)
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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So the new plugs that I installed are not going to work? They are not the imaridum ones they are NKG tho and they don't have a point where the other one does under the ground it is flat
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 12:28 AM
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So the new plugs that I installed are not going to work? They are not the imaridum ones they are NKG tho and they don't have a point where the other one does under the ground it is flat
They will work, to a point... the engine is designed to run on that particular plug, and using anything else can have bad consequences....

If the spark isn't strong enough you may end up with detonation at higher RPM which can completely destroy your engine...
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 12:35 AM
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somethings are better getting from Honda =)
other things you can save money on.
if nico says get the other plugs, id do it.
he has never directed me in the wrong direction before.


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 07:27 PM
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i have had issues with plugs in the past and the absolute best advice i can give you is: the most you can stray from the stock ngk plug #IMR9C-9HE is IMR9C-9HES. the difference there being a stainless steel washer verses a crush. as far as your fuel pump issues, if you havent already found one send me a pm. i have an extra due to replacing mine when that wasnt my problem. anyways gl with it.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by chevyboy View Post
(was jumpstarted off a running car)
Just a note. Dont jumpstart your motorcycle off a running car. The alternator pushes too much power. In the future insure the car is OFF
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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^^ thanks for that i realize now. But by doing that what can i actually damage?
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 08:35 PM
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^^ thanks for that i realize now. But by doing that what can i actually damage?
just about every thing on the bike

if the regulator/rectifier burns up and the bike fires, you could feed high amerage ac voltage into the bike, which would fry the battery, ecu, guages,


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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-03-2011, 02:00 AM
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just about every thing on the bike

if the regulator/rectifier burns up and the bike fires, you could feed high amerage ac voltage into the bike, which would fry the battery, ecu, guages,
My opinion FWIW, and I know we have had this discussion before (where's Doof?)

First part somewhat right, second part wrong.

Yes, it has the (very small) potential to damage lots of stuff and a reasonable chance of frying your starter motor over a period of time (due to overheating).

No, its not as a result of high voltage AC etc as most of the components in the regulator and rectifier almost always fail open circuit, I have never seen a diode fail short.

The starter motor is the only component that may suffer from an over voltage condition as the system voltage is designed to drop to a safe level when you hit the starter button (around 10-11V), when hooked up to a running car it will remain at 14.4V which will increase the amount of current in the motor and how much heat it generates - possibly causing the windings to overheat.
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