Abnormal electrical power drain with engine running - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-30-2011, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Abnormal electrical power drain with engine running

First track day of the season with my 2007 CBR600RR today. I have a total loss system (no generator) with a brand new 9,2 Ah battery. I can normally run about 40-45 mins on this battery.
I have just installed a Acumen DG8 gear indicator and a Starlane Stealth-2 lap timer and power to the Bazzaz Z-fi from the black/ red wire from the kill switch.
The 2 first 20 min sessions went well, the bike running perfect. Charging the battery was quick, with 3-4 A charging current. On the third session, the quick shifter stopped working after about 6-7 minutes, then the gear indicator, the instrument panel and the engine started to stutter. I just made it into the pit before the bike stopped with flat battery.
I charged the battery again to 13V and left the bike for 45 minutes with ignition on, with gear indicator and lap timer on. Voltage was 12.7V afterwards, so not a huge drain. So I went out for session 4 and the same happened after less than 10 minutes.
I have checked all cables and connections and found no visible damage. I tried to disconnect the quick shifter, but no improvement.
I'm thinking that the difference between bike with ignition on and engine running, is the fuel pump and ignition system. I'm open to all ideas about cause of the problem, how to test and troubleshoot etc. I'm scheduled for a new track day again tomorrow and need help urgently!

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-30-2011, 07:24 PM
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Check your Regulator/Rectifier -
1. Get a multimeter, it's your best friend.
2. Check battery voltage with key off.
3. Start bike, check voltage again. It should be noticeably higher, but less than 15.5V(DC).

If that's OK, try this:
1. Check your battery's leakage current with the ignition OFF.
You'll need an ammeter - disconnect the battery's negative lead, put your meter leads in between (red to frame, black to battery neg. terminal).
2. If it's more than 2mA, disconnect (unplug the 4-pole connector) the R/R and try it again.

If something really was pulling the battery down, it'd be REALLY HOT if it was sinking enough current to overload the charging system.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-30-2011, 07:59 PM
 
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What kind of battery do you have? I run a 16 cell from motydesign on a total loss system and I can run till lunch time without a charge. I was bump starting my bike too keep it from drawing any more power than I could. Started after the session was going so I wasn't just sitting on the track not moving.. I also don't have my fan as well "something else to draw power" I removed everything I could that draws power. I too have PC3 and QS, I did push it to the limit and stalled out on the track but I didn't have my volt meter hooked up on the bike when this happened so not sure what voltage the QS started not working, but mine did the same thing, then the cluster will stick in spot on the tach and eventually die out. I would look over all of your accessories and make sure they are on ignition power only.. T




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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-30-2011, 09:26 PM
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It's a fairly simple bit of math... if you have a 10Ah battery and pull 10A out of it it should last 1 hour. If you increase that to 20A you will only be able to run for 30 mins...

I would see if you can borrow a clamp on current meter and measure the current going out of the battery with the bike running, then you will know how long you have.

If you want longer, you will just need a better battery like T said...
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-30-2011, 09:40 PM
 
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Durbahn LiFe battery
Is this the charger you are using?
Doesn't say how high of amps need to be used but might need to be more than you are using. T

http://shop.durbahn.de/shop/en/produ...ger_%28LiFe%29




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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-01-2011, 01:52 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your replies.

I'm using the Manson 40 A charger and the 9.2Ah square battery pack.

Like I said, the bike was working fine the first 2 sessions, both running 20 minutes on the track. The charging current after those sessions was very low,starting at about 6 A at 13.2 V charging voltage.
Then something changed to session 3, where the battery was drained after about 7 minutes. After that,the battery won't last more than 5-7 minutes with the engine running. The battery will accept a charge, the drop in voltage with the ignition on and the engine off is about 0.3 V over 45 minutes, with laptimer, Z-FI and gear indicator connected. The engine runs just fine, up to the point where the battery dies. It starts immediately.

I don't really see how the lap timer and gear indicator can start to consume more power when the engine is running (but I'll try to disconnect them today). It's not the quick shifter, which I tried to disconnect. So I'm left with the Bazzaz Z-FI unit, the ignition, the injectors or the fuel pump. Could any of these components work normally but suddently draw more current?

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-01-2011, 03:21 AM
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Yes, all of them could but it just sounds like you drained the battery to far and now its stuffed... Take it out and have it load tested, the results should show the health of the battery.

Also worth measuring the current coming out of the battery with the bike running, that way you know how much your using and therefore how long you can expect it to last. Always charge before you have used more than 50% and you should have less trouble.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-01-2011, 03:42 AM Thread Starter
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Nico,
thanks for the input, but the battery seems to be OK. I charged it to 12,80 V last night at 1830 hours. This morning at 0930 it was still at 12,78 V having being hooked up to the bike for the entire 15 hours, with the very small current draw explained by the clock in the instrument panel?

I have switched on power to the lap timer, gear indicator and Z-FI now via the kill switch and will leave it on for a couple of hours while I drive to the track, attend the drivers meeting and prepare for the track (in case the bike gets fixed....)

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-01-2011, 03:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opodden View Post
Nico,
thanks for the input, but the battery seems to be OK. I charged it to 12,80 V last night at 1830 hours. This morning at 0930 it was still at 12,78 V having being hooked up to the bike for the entire 15 hours, with the very small current draw explained by the clock in the instrument panel?

I have switched on power to the lap timer, gear indicator and Z-FI now via the kill switch and will leave it on for a couple of hours while I drive to the track, attend the drivers meeting and prepare for the track (in case the bike gets fixed....)
You have less than 2mA draw without anything turned on... the battery voltage wont drop that much, even if it is stuffed...

While your on your way, drop past a shop and get it tested - From what you have described I'm 99% sure that's what your problem is. If I'm wrong there is nothing lost, if I'm right a new battery will see you having a good day at the track.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-01-2011, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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New development

Once again, thanks Nico for your input. You may well be right about the battery. It's Sunday today and nothing is open. But I will get the battery tested tomorrow to see how it performs under load.


I left the bike with power on and engine off for about 1 hour on my way to the track today and that drained the battery. So now I've disconnected the lap timer and DG8 gear indicator and will see what that makes any difference. Otherwise I might as well go home.

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-01-2011, 07:51 AM
 
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If you can get ahold of Durbahn and see what the high charge rate is that your battery should be charged. I don't think you are charging your battery at a high enough rate like it says on their website. This is a reason I put in a voltage meter wired into the bike so I know the voltage of the bike as I am riding and can get in if it's failing during a session.

Also have a backup battery at the track just in case something goes wrong. Have fun. T




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http://tripageled.com/store/index.ph...product_id=116
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-03-2011, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Tripage, you are spot on. I checked the web page and saw that Durbahn recommended 14,4 charging voltage. I had been charging at 13,4 V. It seems like the voltage will drop very rapidly once the battery get below a certain charge. Now I start charging at around 13,4 V and increase to 14,4 V when the charging current stays under 15 A.

Thanks to Tripage and all other contributors. Had a great day at the track both on the track day Sunday and at club training yesterday.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-03-2011, 07:28 PM
 
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Not a problem. T




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Owner
Tristan Page
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Dual low / Dual High beam led headlights. OEM appearance
http://tripageled.com/store/index.ph...product_id=236
Integrated Gear Indicator installed inside your cluster
http://tripageled.com/store/index.ph...product_id=116
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