Engine Over Heating - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Engine Over Heating

Recently my brother dropped the bike and it bent one of the piping that led to the radiator. Took apart the bike and replaced that pipe and now the bike is over heating.

Before replacing it, I thought it was cause the coolant was leaking through the bent pipe, but with new coolant and no leakage, can't figure out why the engine is over heating. It went past 250 F today when test riding it.

ANY IDEAS?


Thanks in advance guys!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 02:22 PM
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is your fan kicking on when you hit the 220F mark?

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 02:31 PM
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how did you replace the coolant? Did you remember to burp the system of any trapped air after replacing the pipe and coolant? If not, then trapped air is in your cooling system giving inefficient cooling and that may be why you're overheating.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAKA444 View Post
how did you replace the coolant? Did you remember to burp the system of any trapped air after replacing the pipe and coolant? If not, then trapped air is in your cooling system giving inefficient cooling and that may be why you're overheating.
how do you burp the system of trapped air?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydeehitop View Post
is your fan kicking on when you hit the 220F mark?
the fan does kick it after a certain temp but it's been inconsistent. sometimes it kicks in when bike starts, sometimes it kicks in after 240.

it's driving me crazy! literally dropped it while parked, at least that's why my brother said.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 02:36 PM
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you gotta open the radiator cap and turn on the engine until the thermostat opens up (around 180 F) After that, there should be a noticeable drop in temperature to like 170F or so. When the tstat opens, blip the throttle and you'll see large air bubbles coming through. Thats the trapped air throughout the system being forced out. The coolant level should drop noticeable afterwards so top her off and you should be good to go after. Check the coolant overflow as well.

And the half of me's all about apathy
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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I"ll def try that today and keep you posted!
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 02:48 PM
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I"ll def try that today and keep you posted!

see my signature for specifics on how the cooling system should work.


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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here are some questions i got from your signature

The radiator and engine contains 3.2 Liters (or 3.4 US Quarts)
the Reserve tank contains .3 Liters (or .32 quarts)
If my coolant was drained due to a leak, does that mean i have to put coolant separately into the radiator as well?

the radiator pressure limits are 108-137 kPa (or 16-20 PSI) .. note, this is the pressure range where coolant should be switching to the reserve tank as an over flow
where and how can i check the pressure?
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2011, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francismwoo View Post
here are some questions i got from your signature

The radiator and engine contains 3.2 Liters (or 3.4 US Quarts)
the Reserve tank contains .3 Liters (or .32 quarts)
If my coolant was drained due to a leak, does that mean i have to put coolant separately into the radiator as well?

the radiator pressure limits are 108-137 kPa (or 16-20 PSI) .. note, this is the pressure range where coolant should be switching to the reserve tank as an over flow
where and how can i check the pressure?
yes, if coolant leaked from the cooling system, its best to add directly to the radiator,

the cap is a bit trickier, and will require specialized tools to successfully test it, if in doubt, replace it, iirc its less than 10 bucks.


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