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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Sometimes no start

So my bike all of a sudden is having some issues. the bike sat for 2 years in storage, changed the fluids and battery, and it started fine. drove it for a couple weeks and now all of a sudden sometimes when I turn the key over the tach will do its sweep test and the relays click, but no fuel pump. The guage will do a scrolling pattern, and the bike will just crank. If i let it sit a little while or shake it around it will start...

any ideas?

I took off the plastics and checked all the wires and everything is plugged in nothing loose no bare wires.

Is there anyway to test the fuel pump and sending unit using an ohm meter?

This is currently my daily driver, so any suggestion is a good one! Thanks!
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 01:56 PM
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Did you check the BAS behind the headlight? Thats a common problem when the fuel pump wont prime.
post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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No I haven't checked it. Its mounted the correct way tho, is there a way to test it other than just looking at it? I never touched it, but I will check it. Is there a way to measure and see if its open?
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerCommander View Post
So my bike all of a sudden is having some issues. the bike sat for 2 years in storage, changed the fluids and battery, and it started fine. drove it for a couple weeks and now all of a sudden sometimes when I turn the key over the tach will do its sweep test and the relays click, but no fuel pump. The guage will do a scrolling pattern, and the bike will just crank. If i let it sit a little while or shake it around it will start...

any ideas?

I took off the plastics and checked all the wires and everything is plugged in nothing loose no bare wires.

Is there anyway to test the fuel pump and sending unit using an ohm meter?

This is currently my daily driver, so any suggestion is a good one! Thanks!
scrolling pattery on the guages (assuming you are refering to the fuel guage) means there is a communication problem with the fuel level sender,

this could indicate a wire break, or a plug that has come undone

this would also net you no prime, and therefore no running engine, no fuel == fail ;)


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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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ok so I took it home and took the plastics off, and I have no power to the fuel pump with the key on. If i press the start button I have two wires that get power upon pressing the switch. but zero power to the mid wire? Im confused on why I am getting power to the ground wire of the fuel pump????? Any thoughts? Thanks tenjin for explaining that. all I have been told is take it to the dealer. Ill keep looking for a broken wire. Anything else I should look for?
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 07:39 PM
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yep, if your getting power to a known ground, you have a short some where.. good luck with that, i hate chasing shorts.


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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 09:49 PM
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Any luck finding the short???
post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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ok so I lifted the tank, and I unplugged the connector. Using a test light, I hooked one end to the POSITIVE end of my battery and checked all 3 terminals...which all LIT UP. Meaning the Fuel pump is grounded on all three spots...does that mean the fuel pump is bad? would this also cause the scrolling guages? I used my multimeter to verify, and checked for resistance, and all three terminals of the fuel pump appear to be grounded...does that mean its the fuel pump? none of the wires appear to be broken anywhere. I check for opens from the pump connector (unplugged from fuel pump) to the relay, gray connector, and ground and Im good there....
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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fuel pump internally shorted to ground?
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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I checked the BAS and it is mounted correctly, but thinking about bypassing it for good measure.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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just jumped 12V to the fuel pump and it buzzed...so I guess its not the fuel pump? back traced all the wires from the fuel pump and I have no opens...and no shorted wires. No burnt fuses, and no disconnected wires...Is it possible that internally the BAS has tripped? Should I just bypass it?
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 01:06 AM
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just jumped 12V to the fuel pump and it buzzed...so I guess its not the fuel pump? back traced all the wires from the fuel pump and I have no opens...and no shorted wires. No burnt fuses, and no disconnected wires...Is it possible that internally the BAS has tripped? Should I just bypass it?
It is not the bas

The only thing that will cause the scrolling is a com problem with the fuel pump. Which happens to be the same thing thats not working I doubt that is a coincidence



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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 01:07 AM
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damn kill switch lol
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 09:42 AM
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You have an open circuit on the ground wire going to the fuel pump.

What year bike is it?
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Nico~ It is a 2005, where should I start looking?

Ninja RR~ I checked the kill switch with a multimeter and the two wires for the kill part have power when switched...And the soldered connections look good, is there anything else I should look at on the switch?

Tenjin~ Do you think the pump is bad with the communication problem or maybe the sending unit causing fits?

Thanks everyone for the continued help!
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 11:33 AM
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Check the resistance of the black / white wire at the fuel pump to ground. My bet is that its open circuit, it should be 0 ohms.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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And if its open then what would that mean? And should I check for this open with the pump connector plugged to the pump? Right now I have the Front Fairing and Headlamp/Cluster off the bike (dont know if that matters or not)

THANKS NICO!!
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-25-2011, 04:58 AM
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If you have the front fairing and what not off then the BAS will not be connected so the fuel pump wont prime anyway...

So, you don't need to have the fuel pump connected, in fact it would be better if it wasn't, if its open there is no path for the current to flow and there is no way the fuel pump can turn on.

As for checking for the open circuit, you need to measure the resistance of the wire from the fuel pump plug to ground (any green wire will do) it should measure 0 ohms but I'm betting it wont.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-27-2011, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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Finally found the fix, Yellow connector under tailsection intermittently did not have fuel pump ground connection, pulled apart, cleaned with battery cleaner & dried, scuffed with emory pad, sprayed protectant and packed with dielectric grease. Pump works great now. Thanks for the help!
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-27-2011, 09:52 AM
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Good to hear you have it sorted mate!
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