Bike runs fine then stalls and is hard to start - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-23-2011, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Bike runs fine then stalls and is hard to start

This weekend, I did some work on my bike. I installed stainless steel brake lines and changed the oil. The oil level is at the high mark. After completing all of this I took the bike out for little ride.

After riding for about 15 minutes, I was sitting in traffic and the engine died and would not restart. The engine temp was 220 when this happened. I let the bike sit for maybe 10 minutes and the temp was down to 180. The fuel pump would prime and the engine would turn over but not start. I left the bike in a neighborhood about 8 blocks from my house. I went to get it in the morning and it started up and ran fine all the way back to my house.

I thought the problem might be vapor lock. I took the bike back out and only made it 2 blocks or so before the engine died. I opened up the gas tank lid and it started back up. I killed the engine and closed the tank lid and it started again but died pretty quickly. After that, it took a while to start regardless of how I had the gas tank lid. I finally got it running again with the lid open and went the few blocks back home. Later, I let the bike idle with the gas tank lid open and the engine eventually died.

The bike is an 07 with 14k miles. The gas tank is about 3/4 full. I find it odd that I am having problems after changing the brake lines and oil yet I don't know what I could have done to cause this. What should I check? Would a faulty spark plug still work fine when the bike has sat and cooled off some?

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 09:36 AM
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A faulty spark plug wont but a faulty coil will... but then the bike should still run, just really poorly.

So does it turn over and not fire? Not turn over at all?

Did you take the front fairing off when you did the lines?
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-24-2011, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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It turns over and doesn't fire or sometimes it will fire and die almost immediately. I didn't remove the front fairing when doing the brake lines.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-25-2011, 05:00 AM
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Do you have a power commander? (they have been known to cause this fault)

Does it show any DTCs when you try to start it?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-25-2011, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Nope to both.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-25-2011, 11:29 AM
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Sounds like your battery needs charging. It's actually pretty common. The reason the bike cranks cold is that the battery has had time to recharge just enough to crank. Once the bike is hot the battery has less CCA and the starter requires a bit more. Make sure your voltage at the battery is 12.8v or above. Clean the ground wires on the left side of the frame and rub some dielectric grease on them.


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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-25-2011, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewRedRider View Post
Sounds like your battery needs charging. It's actually pretty common. The reason the bike cranks cold is that the battery has had time to recharge just enough to crank. Once the bike is hot the battery has less CCA and the starter requires a bit more. Make sure your voltage at the battery is 12.8v or above. Clean the ground wires on the left side of the frame and rub some dielectric grease on them.
I can check that but why would the bike die once it had been running 15-20 minutes? Do you think the connection is poor enough that the battery is not being charged while running?

I'll give it a shot since it's pretty easy to do. Thanks.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-25-2011, 05:07 PM
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bad RR perhaps?


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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-25-2011, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fallingbomb View Post
I can check that but why would the bike die once it had been running 15-20 minutes? Do you think the connection is poor enough that the battery is not being charged while running?

I'll give it a shot since it's pretty easy to do. Thanks.
I'm not sure why the bike stalled. You could be dealing with more than one problem.

Do you have an aftermarket pipe or air filter?


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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-26-2011, 01:28 AM Thread Starter
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I have a slip on but it's been on for maybe 3k miles without any problems.

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-26-2011, 12:20 PM
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Well IMHO, installing any aftermarket pipe will change your fuel map. Running rich in the lower RPM range could be causing the bike to stall. I would suggest you get it dyno'd w/ a fuel curve. Get a printout or preferably a copy of the file and see what your fuel map looks like. You can also pull your spark plugs and get an overall view. My hunch is you may need a PC to correct your fuel map.


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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2011, 12:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewRedRider View Post
Well IMHO, installing any aftermarket pipe will change your fuel map. Running rich in the lower RPM range could be causing the bike to stall. I would suggest you get it dyno'd w/ a fuel curve. Get a printout or preferably a copy of the file and see what your fuel map looks like. You can also pull your spark plugs and get an overall view. My hunch is you may need a PC to correct your fuel map.
If its only a slip-on there wont be an issue, the difference in flow rates wont change to much... add a filter to that or a full exhaust system and you have a different story...
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2011, 12:49 AM
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I would be having a close look at the IACV and MAP sensor, your issue could be caused by either of these.

Could also be the PAIR system...
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