Installed new wave rotors/pads now - problems - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Installed new wave rotors/pads now - problems

So my front brakes were pretty worked when i got the bike, the pads were low and the rotors were warped, I had bad chatter/squeal so i decided to swap them out with a nice set of wave rotors and ebc pads.

now I noticed after a few rides, about 2-300 miles that the front wheel will not rotate freely, i have to put a lot of effort to turn it a full revolution while its up on the front stand. This cant be normal, as it will produce drag and extra wear on the motor, not to mention hurt gas mileage .

The only solution i can think of would be to let the pads wear down naturally? Either that or take them back out and shave them down to allow more free play on the rotor. what can I adjust to compensate for this? what went wrong with the install? Do i have a stuck piston? I made sure to clean everything up before re-mounting.

anyone else with this problem?
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 05:30 PM
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Try taking off the calipers and using a clap, push the piece that rests on the inside of the pads all the way in. then reinstall and pump the breaks.
Should fix the problem


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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 05:33 PM
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remove your front brake lever and see if the wheel spins freely with it removed.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soldate View Post
remove your front brake lever and see if the wheel spins freely with it removed.
yeah do that first ^^^ if its the breaks then try this


use C-clamp, place a thin piece of wood or cardboard over the face of the piston to protect the surface from marring, and work it back that way. As you turn the handle on the clamp, it will increase pressure on the piston, until it becomes flush with the surrounding metal. Then loosen and remove the C-clamp and install pads. you will have to do this with all 4 pistons


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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 05:53 PM
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Put the bike back on the stand.
Loosen the pinch bolts and the axle nut. Spin the wheel, this should show some improvement.
next tighten the left pinch bolts ( the side that doesnt have the axle bolt) and torque tospec.
Next tighen the axle bolt to spec. Do not tighten the other pinch bolts.
Now take the bike off the stand and sit on the bike and appy wheight to the front forks sothat they compress a few times.Helps to hold the front brake.
When you've done that tighten the pinch bolts to spec. This should solve your problem.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BraveBird View Post
So my front brakes were pretty worked when i got the bike, the pads were low and the rotors were warped, I had bad chatter/squeal so i decided to swap them out with a nice set of wave rotors and ebc pads.

now I noticed after a few rides, about 2-300 miles that the front wheel will not rotate freely, i have to put a lot of effort to turn it a full revolution while its up on the front stand. This cant be normal, as it will produce drag and extra wear on the motor, not to mention hurt gas mileage .

The only solution i can think of would be to let the pads wear down naturally? Either that or take them back out and shave them down to allow more free play on the rotor. what can I adjust to compensate for this? what went wrong with the install? Do i have a stuck piston? I made sure to clean everything up before re-mounting.

anyone else with this problem?
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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woops......

Last edited by BraveBird; 06-01-2011 at 05:58 PM.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CriM View Post
Try taking off the calipers and using a clap, push the piece that rests on the inside of the pads all the way in. then reinstall and pump the breaks.
Should fix the problem

ok this sounds about right, because I didnt actually "reset" the pistons when i did the install. I just kind of forced them back enough to fit the pads.

THANKS Guys.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BraveBird View Post
ok this sounds about right, because I didnt actually "reset" the pistons when i did the install. I just kind of forced them back enough to fit the pads.

THANKS Guys.
if you were able to mount the wheel and get the rotors in between the pads,then that isn't your problem. There is always contact between the pads and rotors. If the problem is indeed in the brake area, there are to things to look at.
1) what is the level of you brake fluid in the reseviour? It should be inbetween the hi and low marks.
2)are the clipers clean in the piston area?
Iftheseitems are good then I go back to my original post.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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well i was under the impression that the wheel floats over the axle rod so the tightness of the pinch bolts or the axle nut should not matter.


level of brake fluid is good, a bit high.
i cleaned everything up before i re-installed.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 06:35 PM
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the pad pins, which hold the pads in place, make sure they are thoroughly clean and smooth. maybe even add a light coat of grease to them.

'07 Pearl White
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-01-2011, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BraveBird View Post
well i was under the impression that the wheel floats over the axle rod so the tightness of the pinch bolts or the axle nut should not matter.


level of brake fluid is good, a bit high.
i cleaned everything up before i re-installed.
I don't have a manual yet ( it's on order)but when I had my RC51, part of the instructions when installing the wheel was as I mentioned above, The purpose was to set/align the axel. I do it to all my bikes. Although one time I was mounting a front wheel on my sv and skipped this part. As I was riding the bike I felt a pulse under braking. I put the bike on the stands and rotated the wheel and just like you I couldn't get a full rotation. So I loosened everything as described, tighted it all up as described and that solved the problem.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 08:39 AM
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Superhawk is right, however the order is a little out...

Do the axle bolt up then do up the right hand pinch bolts, bounce the front end and do up the left. Torque values can be found in my head bearings thread.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico View Post
Superhawk is right, however the order is a little out...

Do the axle bolt up then do up the right hand pinch bolts, bounce the front end and do up the left. Torque values can be found in my head bearings thread.
well surprisingly I just loosened up both left and right pinch bolts and the axle nut and the wheel still does not rotate freely.


so the previous posters were right about the pistons not being fully retracted.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 08:20 PM
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be sure to keep an eye on your reservoir if you press your calipers in further. (if wasnt mentioned before) previous owner of my bike had too much fluid in the system and it gushed out all over my triple & tank. GL with the fix.

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 08:35 PM
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sounds like your pistons are so dirty that they are not retracting.

time to clean your claipers dude... also remember to clean the pins so the the pads glide freely.

Dave Moss has a good vid but cant find it... but here's one that shows you the method.

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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isRR View Post
sounds like your pistons are so dirty that they are not retracting.

time to clean your claipers dude... also remember to clean the pins so the the pads glide freely.

Dave Moss has a good vid but cant find it... but here's one that shows you the method.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Yo80...eature=related
ahh yes. excellent vid. i didnt quite get that level of detail, but i removed all the grit and grime inside the caliper, and cleaned the pistons off also. I used wd40 for the slides and made sure everything was moving nicely.


I just put the wheel back up, after adding some grease to the axle rod as well. It does seem to move a bit better.

I'll give it a few rides and report back. thanks again.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 09:50 PM
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^ just a small note, wd40 is not a lube. it will evaporate, make sure to use a dedicated lubricant.


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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-11-2011, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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Well for anyone that might happen upon this post in the future during searches etc..

After 340 miles I have not had any further problems with my front brakes, there is much more free play in the wheel after resetting and cleaning the pistons.

pinch bolts and axle nut had nothing to do with it..

thanks again to the ones that gave correct advice!
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