Shifter Sticking - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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Shifter Sticking

Hey guys,

I've got a 2008 with 8k miles, and it's giving me some issues with shifting. If I have the bike on or off, with the clutch pulled in, the shifter seems to stick. I need to apply a certain amount of pressure to get it to move at all, and then it gives, with an annoying tick. It feels like it's kind of stuck on something in there. It shifts and rides great, this is the only annoyance I have. I've got enough oil in the bike.

Any thoughts?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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Am I the only person with this issue?
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 05:40 AM
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You will have more trouble shifting it with the bike off as the dogs aren't aligned...

With it on, its normal to have a bit of a clunk when you go into first from neutral...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico View Post
You have to look at the drive train as three components separated at two points...

something like this:



You can control the speed of the engine (at least I hope so)

You can control the speed of the output shaft (by varying road speed)

When you mis-shift into neutral with the clutch in you have disconnected the gearbox shaft from both the output shaft and engine and no longer have control over it's speed.

The clunk your hearing when you shift into gear with the clutch in is the gearbox shaft matching the speed of the output shaft, matching RPM perfectly will do no good in this instance. You will still get a clunk.

To avoid the clunk you have to leave it in neutral, let the clutch out (slowly) to get the gearbox shaft to the correct speed then once rpm is matched to road speed pull the clutch in and quickly shift into gear, then let the clutch back out.

Either that or clutch in and in neutral until your stationary and start again...

The reason bliping the throttle helps is that there is still a small amount of force transmitted through the clutch even though you have it pulled in (similar principle of operation to an auto gearbox's torque converter), the engine will be going considerably faster than the gearbox shaft but the gearbox shaft will nevertheless speed up a little, causing its speed to approach the speed of the output shaft resulting in a smaller clunk.

This is also why you get a very light clunk when you shift into first when your stationary, the gearbox shaft is spinning slowly with the clutch in, when you put it into first it comes to a sudden stop as it engages with the output shaft and makes a small clunk.

Last edited by Nico; 06-20-2011 at 05:43 AM.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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It's not the clunk, I understand and love the clunk, it's a tick or click. It's like the shifter is stuck on something and won't move until I use enough force to get past whatever it's stuck on.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 10:25 AM
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Is there any end float in the shifter shaft? (the one that goes into the bike)
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 12:08 AM
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Also, what type of oil are you using? Some oils can make the clutch plates too slippery and not engage properly. Most synthetics or motorcycle based oils are fine for wet clutches but other oil don't have the polymers to either last long (improper "squish rate" or are too slippery for friction clutches.

To adjust the clutch, loosen the lever adjuster all the way in (loosest) and then tighten to clutch adjuster on the engine (12mm nut and locking nut) to make the clutch lever have a tight feel with about 1/4 inch of play. then adjust the lever adjuster until you get the right amount of engagement feel (i.e. halfway for engagement, etc.). Make sure the lock nut on the engine is tight. If all that doesn't work, then maybe your clutch is fried. Is it a new bike to you or did you buy it used? You never know what the other guy did to it (power wheelies, drag racing, etc.).

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 12:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico View Post
Is there any end float in the shifter shaft? (the one that goes into the bike)
Maybe .05mm of float, it's very very small. It barely moves.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzzbutt View Post
Also, what type of oil are you using? Some oils can make the clutch plates too slippery and not engage properly. Most synthetics or motorcycle based oils are fine for wet clutches but other oil don't have the polymers to either last long (improper "squish rate" or are too slippery for friction clutches.

To adjust the clutch, loosen the lever adjuster all the way in (loosest) and then tighten to clutch adjuster on the engine (12mm nut and locking nut) to make the clutch lever have a tight feel with about 1/4 inch of play. then adjust the lever adjuster until you get the right amount of engagement feel (i.e. halfway for engagement, etc.). Make sure the lock nut on the engine is tight. If all that doesn't work, then maybe your clutch is fried. Is it a new bike to you or did you buy it used? You never know what the other guy did to it (power wheelies, drag racing, etc.).
I was running amsoil motorcycle oil when the problem developed. I've since switched to rotella synth. I got the bike used with 2300 miles(now 8300). The previous owner didn't do any wheelies, he didn't even adjust the suspension.

I've also adjusted the clutch cable each looser and tighter, and it didn't make much difference. Maybe this is just a quirk that my bike has, or maybe I'll need a new clutch soon :(
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 03:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsp View Post
Maybe .05mm of float, it's very very small. It barely moves.
You may have a worn detent star then... but with that many miles on the bike it shouldn't be that.

Perhaps a dud bearing?

Sorry I'm not much help here mate...
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