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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Chain Wear from Excessive Aggressive Riding

I've been hearing more and more chain noise over the last month, clanking and rolling noises. I fear it may be from all the excessive aggessive riding I've been doing lately stretching out the chain in some spots. The chain is a really good one, ek 520 mvxz - 9000 ten. strength.

I can't take out the chain slack by tightening the chain cause it makes the chain too tight in other places. I feel I haven't ridden enough on them to have worn it or the spockets out (taken in account that I upgraded those as well when I put the new chain on) and clean/lube when needed so that wasn't an issue. I would guess I've put about 5000 miles on it. Installed 3/28/10.

I ordered a new chain, same one to replace it. I really like that chain. I guess I'll have to tone my riding down a couple notches (stop light racing, speeding/dropping the hammer) to save wear and tear, and money. $120 not so cheap.

Just wanted some feedback on chain wear/stretching causes.

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Last edited by War Machine; 06-19-2011 at 05:23 PM.
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 01:52 PM
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something not right.... correctly adjusted quality chain should last at very least 10k miles ( in extreme environmental conditions) and that would probably also apply for track also.......

not sure as i am not track guy
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Chain info: http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/chain.php

This is good advice for chain maintenance.

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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Decided that the best thing to do is buy a new chain & sprockets. $220

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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 05:36 AM
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Make sure they are aligned correctly as that will have an effect on your chain life due to uneven loading on the rollers, also need to be careful hard you are scrubbing the chain as you may have inadvertently damaged the orings...
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Machine View Post

I ordered a new chain, same one to replace it. I really like that chain. I guess I'll have to tone my riding down a couple notches (stop light racing, speeding/dropping the hammer) to save wear and tear, and money. $120 not so cheap.

Just wanted some feedback on chain wear/stretching causes.
Not sure how you can like a chain that you're posting about having to replace too early. I'll guarantee that you aren't stressing that chain anywhere near as much as some of us do on our dedicated track bikes. Something else had to be wrong. Either adjustment or improper cleaning.
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 06:51 AM
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Also, how often do you clean it?
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico View Post
Make sure they are aligned correctly as that will have an effect on your chain life due to uneven loading on the rollers, also need to be careful hard you are scrubbing the chain as you may have inadvertently damaged the orings...
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Not sure how you can like a chain that you're posting about having to replace too early. I'll guarantee that you aren't stressing that chain anywhere near as much as some of us do on our dedicated track bikes. Something else had to be wrong. Either adjustment or improper cleaning.


i can get 10,000km out of a chain and sprocket set. thats on/off track duty. thats how much i have on it right now, and its still in great shape.

you most likely have it adjusted wrong. too tight will streatch the crap out of it, and if yrou rear sprocket isnt aligned properly, you will burn of sprockets like melted butter!!

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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico View Post
Make sure they are aligned correctly as that will have an effect on your chain life due to uneven loading on the rollers, also need to be careful hard you are scrubbing the chain as you may have inadvertently damaged the orings...
Even though I lined it all up as well as I could, I can't rule out being slightly out of align. I do clean the chain really well with a toothbrush to get all the grime off.

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Not sure how you can like a chain that you're posting about having to replace too early. I'll guarantee that you aren't stressing that chain anywhere near as much as some of us do on our dedicated track bikes. Something else had to be wrong. Either adjustment or improper cleaning.
Agreed.

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Also, how often do you clean it?
Every 600 miles. Clean with kerosine and lubed with pj1. I did sometimes lube without heating/running the chain beforehand.

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i can get 10,000km out of a chain and sprocket set. thats on/off track duty. thats how much i have on it right now, and its still in great shape.

you most likely have it adjusted wrong. too tight will streatch the crap out of it, and if yrou rear sprocket isnt aligned properly, you will burn of sprockets like melted butter!!
I'm thinking about buying the laser alignment tool I saw a while back but didn't want to shell out the money for it at the time.

Even though I thought I was doing a great job on chain maintenance, I see room for improvement after reading the info from the link I posted about the subject.

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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
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...Every 600 miles. Clean with kerosine and lubed with pj1. I did sometimes lube without heating/running the chain beforehand...
I would be cleaning it a lot more often... especially if you live near the ocean or its raining regularly... Personally I did mine every week when I was commuting, which is about every 300km, I was also living and riding past the beach every day... I wouldn't leave it past 400 miles regardless of where you live.
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 01:01 PM
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i clean mine every 2nd fuel tank, depending on type of driving. and clean it avery 2 weeks ish.

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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 01:49 PM
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There's something wrong. How much slack does it have?
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 01:54 PM
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No need for a laser alignment tool. Spin the rear wheel by hand and make sure the rear sprocket runs centered in the chain. That us the ultimate end goal here, no need for fancy crap.

Remember that chain slack needs to be checked with your butt in the seat also. Tension changes with movement of the swingarm.
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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 11:54 PM
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Yeah, what they all said. If it has tight and lose spots, it's whacked. Probably an adjustment issue and damaged O-rings. Most people over tighten the chain cuz it "sounds" right, but when you sit on it or the bike jacks up and down from riding topography, it can stretch it out. Also, if you've cleaned it with anything like gasoline or WD40, that'll damage the rubber O-rings. Kerosene is good cuz it doesn't damage rubber. Then get the chain warm by spinning it on the stand or riding for a couple of miles and slap some good quality (PJ1 Blue, etc.) chain lube on it. Don't be stingy and let it soak into the side plates and top and bottom of the chain. Then wipe off excess and run it a little more to soak it in. I've had problems with EK chains for some reason. I've gotten better wear from RK and DID. I mostly race but they seem to do the trick. Also make sure you change your chain and sprockets together. Line up the chain looking down the back sprocket to the front and the chain should be straight but not taught. The side plates should be even (use a ruler to make sure they are straight). And see if the teeth of the sprocket are hitting in the middle of the links. Be sure to tighten to 1/2 inch slack in the middle of the lower chain with your weight on it. That's about it...

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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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Alignment tools may take the guess work out of the equation.

non laser:

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/..._tool_08-0048/

Laser:



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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 03:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheX View Post
No need for a laser alignment tool. Spin the rear wheel by hand and make sure the rear sprocket runs centered in the chain. That us the ultimate end goal here, no need for fancy crap.

Remember that chain slack needs to be checked with your butt in the seat also. Tension changes with movement of the swingarm.
You don't need to check it with the weight on the bike, the distance that Honda give you takes into account the full range of movement of the swingarm so that even if the shock bottoms out it still wont bind the chain.

When you do check it you should have the bike on the side stand. That is the condition under which Honda supply you with the slack measurement, if you go putting it on a rear stand you won't be adjusting it correctly due to the difference in sag height.

I'm not saying that you shouldn't do it, only that it isn't necessary.
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Rename this thread - "Chain Wear due to slight Misalignment & less than perfect Maintenance"

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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-02-2011, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Update:

My chain is making a lot of noise and I won't be riding anymore until the drive is changed out. I would hate for the chain to break at high speed and jump into the rear tire locking that sh!t up. I think I've pushed my luck as far as I'm going to riding on this stretched worn out chain.

I took my drive apart today to check everything out - still waiting on the rear sprocket to arrive so spent some time breaking the bike down and cleaning all the grease, grime, and dirt from everywhere I could reach.

First thing I did was to check alignment of the sprockets and chain. I have the motion pro alignment tool and a laser tool also. Everything checks out as aligned.

Looking at the chain and spinning the tire I notice that a couple of the links are off, one here - one there, as if too tight/over tightened. May be the biggest sign of a problem and may be because it's out of lubrication. When I knock out the pin to take the chain off, pin looks in good shape.

Rear sprocket has powdercoat worn off around teeth but all teeth are in good condition.

Front sprocket has powdercoat worn off on the inner side and a little rusty. I notice that the front sprocket has some "wiggle room", didn't notice this before back when I first installed it so there's a BIG question here if it's suppose to be like that. Could this be the cause ???? Keep playing with it for a while, new sprocket does the same thing. Seems odd to me.

Feedback on that front sprocket wiggle please ................

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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-02-2011, 11:21 PM
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Check the torque on it.

I have the same chain 520, with Driven sprockets. Over 10,000 miles and still like new.

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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 12:42 AM Thread Starter
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Check the torque on it.

I have the same chain 520, with Driven sprockets. Over 10,000 miles and still like new.
Torque is fine.

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Torque is fine on your front sprocket?
It should'nt habe any play.

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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Torque is fine on your front sprocket?
It should'nt habe any play.
The more I think about it, there should be some space so the sprocket can turn. If it were tightened down with no room, the sprocket would scrape. It just seems like there is currently more space than is needed.

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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 02:26 PM
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I did a lot of "research" before switching my chain and sprockets, and I came to the conclusion that D.I.D. chains are the best. So after getting 25K miles with my OEM chain and sprocket and having the same slapping sounds that you have, along with a loss of power, I switched over to the DID VM2 chain and a Supersprox Stealth Sprocket that has metal teeth with an aluminum center.

I'm hoping to get 25K out of it at least.

P.S. I stayed with a 525 Chain without changing the teeth because I really don't need all that extra power.

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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 03:32 PM
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A 520 front sprocket will wiggle around a little bit. It's not a problem. There are other threads about it here. I couldn't believe it either, but it's OK.
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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I did a lot of "research" before switching my chain and sprockets, and I came to the conclusion that D.I.D. chains are the best. So after getting 25K miles with my OEM chain and sprocket and having the same slapping sounds that you have, along with a loss of power, I switched over to the DID VM2 chain and a Supersprox Stealth Sprocket that has metal teeth with an aluminum center.

I'm hoping to get 25K out of it at least.

P.S. I stayed with a 525 Chain without changing the teeth because I really don't need all that extra power.

I'm not changing teeth, staying with stock specs. I don't see any reason to change them either. But did decide to, as I did last time, go with the 520 because it seems there were so many more options (parts wise) in doing so. I might go back to 525 next time, I've already ordered and received most of the parts to change that now.

I agree with and am sticking with steel sprockets. Had a supersprox last time and going with driven this time. I hope to get more miles out the new drive this go around, hopefully. We'll see.

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Quote:
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A 520 front sprocket will wiggle around a little bit. It's not a problem. There are other threads about it here. I couldn't believe it either, but it's OK.
Seems weird, but the more I think about it I realize it should have some play. Just seems to have more play than it should need.

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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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So ........... at this point it looks like lubrication of the chain seems to be the x-factor in the downfall of it. Even though I chained and lubed it regularly. I'm thinking that the lube never got in the places it should have gotten on a consistant basis.

The enviroment is a good cause, living near the ocean and riding in the rain from time to time.

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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
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So ........... at this point it looks like lubrication of the chain seems to be the x-factor in the downfall of it. Even though I chained and lubed it regularly. I'm thinking that the lube never got in the places it should have gotten on a consistant basis.

The enviroment is a good cause, living near the ocean and riding in the rain from time to time.
With an x/o ring chain you really only lube the places where the chain and sprockets meet.
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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With an x/o ring chain you really only lube the places where the chain and sprockets meet.
Looks like you should be lubing any and all parts that have the potential to bind. So I probably over lube. But on the other hand, I do clean as much as possible also so maybe I'm using too much kerosine to get all the grime off. Is that possible? Cause kerosine does take the lube off too and it's very good at it.

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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 03:29 AM
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Are you scrubbing the chain? If your not careful you can damage the o rings causing the lube sealed in there to come out, and its nigh on impossible to get it back in there.
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