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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Help:03 RR with starting issues

I purchased a 03 dirt cheap and I assumed it only needed a new battery and fresh fluids after sitting for nearly 2 years. After purchasing a new battery the bike still would not start so I pulled the plugs and ran a compression test. The numbers from the compression test were very close to 120 for 3 plugs and the last plug on the clutch side was 89. Here is a picture of the spark plugs I removed. They appear to have oil on them. What could be the problem and will it be difficult to fix?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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I guess I can give this a shot since no one can answer this question https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.p...ht=compression
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 12:51 AM
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A few things to do.

1) Empty the fuel tank, and clean the lines out to remove old fuel. Your gas only really lasts for about 12 weeks.

2) Check that fuel is getting into the airbox/throttle bodies. You could also spray RP7 or some sort of fluid/water displacer that helps start engines into the ram air tubes and see if this helps is to start to fire.

3) Get hold of a can of brake cleaner (spray can/pressure pack) and squirt it in the top of the airbox while trying to start the bike. This removes the carbon on the valves that build up when the bike hasn't been run for a while or wasn't properly serviced/tuned.

4) To bump the compression, put an air hose from a compressor into the ram air tube on one side while blocking the other side.

All of the above had to be done to get my track bike back to life. Once the brake cleaner went in with the compressor, it was perfect.

Good Luck.



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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 12:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darke99 View Post
A few things to do.

1) Empty the fuel tank, and clean the lines out to remove old fuel. Your gas only really lasts for about 12 weeks.

2) Check that fuel is getting into the airbox/throttle bodies. You could also spray RP7 or some sort of fluid/water displacer that helps start engines into the ram air tubes and see if this helps is to start to fire.

3) Get hold of a can of brake cleaner (spray can/pressure pack) and squirt it in the top of the airbox while trying to start the bike. This removes the carbon on the valves that build up when the bike hasn't been run for a while or wasn't properly serviced/tuned.

4) To bump the compression, put an air hose from a compressor into the ram air tube on one side while blocking the other side.

All of the above had to be done to get my track bike back to life. Once the brake cleaner went in with the compressor, it was perfect.

Good Luck.
Do you think I should check the fuel filter and the injection filter as well? Would seafoam do the same as RP7? I understand everything but number 4
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 06:30 AM
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Nope seafoam is not the same as rp7 / wd40...

Brake cleaner is alcohol... in other words highly flammable so it also does a good job getting the engine running, perfectly fine short term.

And the idea with the compressed air is to pressurise the intake a little, kinda the same as a turbo... the extra air can help her get running.

But before you get to exited with all that, is the fuel pump even priming?
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 06:48 AM
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love the question. start from the top!
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 09:40 AM
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We can't really see what the tip of the plugs. How many miles are on this bike?


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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some better pictures of the plugs and it looks like the fuel pump is shot and I have a ton of rust from the gas sitting in the tank so long
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 03:28 AM
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You can have a go at cleaning out the tank and the sieve (bright orange material) in the pump...
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 03:47 AM Thread Starter
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I read a few post where people had rust inside of the tank and majority of the responses were to just replace the pump and tank. I pulled the pump out and its covered in rust and the inside of the tank is extremely rusty

Quote:
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You can have a go at cleaning out the tank and the sieve (bright orange material) in the pump...
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 04:30 AM
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That is what most people do... its easier, and quite often cleaning the thing is almost impossible.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 01:21 PM
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You're going to need new plugs also. Those tips look to be rounded off to me.

If anyone is replacing tanks or pumps due to rust or debris in the fuel system I highly recommend you pull the injectors and clean them! I'm not sure what micron size these injectors are but they are tiny! If you can see debris in your fuel then I would clean the entire system. Not just the tank and the pump. 90% of the work is already done by pulling the pump. All that's left is unbolting the fuel rails and pulling the injectors out. I soaked the injectors for 10-20 minutes in a can of Carburetor cleaning solution for soaking parts.


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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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I found some plugs on amazon for $40. The stealership wanted close to $90. I'm waiting on parts at this point.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-30-2011, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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The parts came in and everything you guys told me to do worked. Thanks again
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-07-2011, 09:41 AM
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Awesome! Glad you got it!!


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