'99 R6 Starting Issues - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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'99 R6 Starting Issues

Ok, I tried asking on the r6-forums (where I used to live but these forums put them to shame imo...) but, I got not responses. I don't know if any of you would know anything about Yamaha's but, hopefully I'll actually get some meaningful responses here.

2003 Yamaha R6
~28,000mi
Slip on
Recent "service work" is unknown as it was just purchased a month ago.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
My friend just bought a 1999 R6 for a pretty good price but it will not start now. It ran fine for about 2-3 weeks but one day it wouldn't start. To simplify this, I will try to make a list instead of trying to write a long story about what we notice to be wrong or we have tried already.

Issue 1: When key was turned to "on", the gauges would not light up, would not prime, etc. It was as if it was not registering that the key was even "on".
-Fix Attempt 1: Charged the battery. Did not work.
-Fix Attempt 2: Checked all wires for tears/rips, found one by the key/master switch and reconnected. Did not work.
-Fix Attempt 3: Checked fuses, nothing reading out of the ordinary.
-Fix Attempt 4: Did the screwdriver on the solenoid trick, and the bike attempted to turn over. Believed the solenoid was shot so it was replaced. Did not work.
-Fix Attempt 5: Had a top ranked Yamaha mechanic (I didn't know they ranked mechanics, but he just went to some national competition... Anyways...) look at it quick on his free time (not a full 'lookover'), he believed it was the key/master switch causing the issues. One of these was purchased and installed. It now lights up the gauges.

Issue 2: (Current/updated problem will be added after I visit him today)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Now, I do not remember all the details because it has been sitting for the past two weeks (Waiting for more money to come in just in case more parts are needed and to maybe actually have that guy give the bike a full diagnostics at the dealership where he works).

I am going to his house later today so I will be able to replace these last two paragraphs below the line with more details about the issue. For anyone that is concerned, what do you recommend that should I ask about/check? Would you like pictures of anything? What could be causing the starting issue? Thank you all in advance!

`

Last edited by B3N; 06-24-2011 at 10:50 AM.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 12:55 PM
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I hate your sig. What is it loading!? argggg.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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I hate your sig. What is it loading!? argggg.
Haha! Gotcha! That's all it is, just a loading icon.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 01:41 PM
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Haha! Gotcha! That's all it is, just a loading icon.


BWAHAHAHA, that is effn funny bro, hahahaha,


so here is what to check, first stop replacing parts, that will just cause more issues and you having to check your work,


now you are sure its in neutral and the kill switch is not on.... Im going to assume so,



there is a small bar at the kick stand that will get stuck it is the safety switch for the kick stand it can sometimes get stuck and not come out or release, check that,

post pics of the bike and a video of it what it does when you turn the key,

I had 2 2000 R6s, so we can solve this sucker, post up what you find, after checking those

pm me if you want a faster response,

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 01:51 PM
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post this up on the wera boards, all kinds of bikes on there and a lot of very knowledgeable folks on there as well, that is if you don't get it fixed here soon


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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 02:15 PM
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hmmm... broken insulation on a wire by the key switch. insulation doesnt tear itself. did you check to see what could have damaged the wire or where it could have shorted against. that would be my first thought. then i'd check for power in all the neccessary places, especially from controllers (like the ecu).
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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so here is what to check, first stop replacing parts, that will just cause more issues and you having to check your work,

now you are sure its in neutral and the kill switch is not on.... Im going to assume so,

there is a small bar at the kick stand that will get stuck it is the safety switch for the kick stand it can sometimes get stuck and not come out or release, check that,

post pics of the bike and a video of it what it does when you turn the key,

I had 2 2000 R6s, so we can solve this sucker, post up what you find, after checking those

pm me if you want a faster response,
Oh yea, forgot to add that we also checked the killswitch for corrosion (it was fine), and the kickstand sensor as well. We pretty much checked all the "easy" stuff, but I will check those again as well. I also need to make sure that it's priming when the key is turned "on" because I can't remember.

Ill try and get a video of what it does exactly. If not, ill write it down in detail and post later.

Dentist appt now so no real urgency, but might be PMing you sometime when me and him have time to do work on it. Thank you

`

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boognish View Post
hmmm... broken insulation on a wire by the key switch. insulation doesnt tear itself. did you check to see what could have damaged the wire or where it could have shorted against. that would be my first thought. then i'd check for power in all the neccessary places, especially from controllers (like the ecu).
It seemed like it was pinched between the frame and the clipon but not sure how that would happen. Ill check that again as well.

Ill have him check the power for the ecu, etc.

`
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-23-2011, 02:39 PM
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Oh yea, forgot to add that we also checked the killswitch for corrosion (it was fine), and the kickstand sensor as well. We pretty much checked all the "easy" stuff, but I will check those again as well. I also need to make sure that it's priming when the key is turned "on" because I can't remember.

Ill try and get a video of what it does exactly. If not, ill write it down in detail and post later.

Dentist appt now so no real urgency, but might be PMing you sometime when me and him have time to do work on it. Thank you


cool, yeah have to start from square one, if we dive in the middle and its the kick stand its hilarious, we had a member here who was working on his bike, couldnt start it for weeks took stuff off,

it was on stands, and the kick stand was down, DOH!!!! hahaha


yeah just pm me

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 09:40 AM
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As far as the starter motor goes, there is not much it could really be...

You have your main and ignition fuses, diodes, starter circuit cut off relay, switches (neutral, start, side stand, ignition, start, engine stop and clutch) and finally the harness itself...

Get out a multimeter and start chasing it...
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 09:53 AM
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testlight and wireing diagram

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Update:

Ok, he did have a cheap multimeter but it got fried somehow. Soo.. we didn't find out much new info, but I'll be back either tonight or tomorrow. He is having that mechanic come look at it again today/tomorrow? ...so i'm sure he'll take care of the multimeter stuff if we don't get around to it first.

Sorry, didn't get to take pictures. We didn't mess with it much last night anyways.
-When the key is turned on.... Gauges light up and the fuel pump primes. This proves that the key/masterswitch did need to be replaced. Also, the mechanic rigged it to a toggle to test this before he bought it.. so he didn't just randomly buy the part.
-When pushed to start... absolutely nothing. Kickstand still seems to be fine. He did drop/"eased down" the bike in his driveway before this happened, so the guy is going to check that drop sensor.. but it started right after and he rode it back into his garage to park it so I don't know how that could be the issue.

So here's the plan... Gotta get ahold of a multimeter or wait for that guy to come back around with his.

He did post something up on the r6forums and he managed to get some responses, although they suggested the same things as you all did.. Here's the link anyways. http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140545

`

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 10:56 AM
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So have you tried looking for a spark? Pull a plug out and hold it against the block then turn the motor over, you should see it spark.

Can you see fuel vapour down the carbys? Are you sure its not flooded?

I would be looking to get the starter circuit working before you get to far into everything else...
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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So have you tried looking for a spark? Pull a plug out and hold it against the block then turn the motor over, you should see it spark.

Can you see fuel vapour down the carbys? Are you sure its not flooded?

I would be looking to get the starter circuit working before you get to far into everything else...
The next time i'm at his place, we'll check the plugs and carbs. If they are flooded would that prevent the starter from even "clicking"? And yea, we just have to get ahold of a multimeter. Asking around to borrow one now, if not ill buy one once I get paid.

`
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 12:20 PM
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Nope, it wont stop the starter motor... but you said push starting didn't do the trick either, hence those questions... if you could push start it you would then know that the problem is definitely with just the start circuit and not something that has other knock on effects like a bad ground.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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Nope, it wont stop the starter motor... but you said push starting didn't do the trick either, hence those questions... if you could push start it you would then know that the problem is definitely with just the start circuit and not something that has other knock on effects like a bad ground.
Sorry I worded that incorrectly. I meant to say "When the button is pushed to start".

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 09:34 PM
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ah ok... well give push starting her a go :)
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-27-2011, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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OKAY!... Sorry for the delayed post, but the problem has been solved. Not sure exactly what he did, but that mechanic/guy worked his magic and narrowed it down to the neutral switch. Bypassed it for testing and it starts and runs perfectly now.

Thank you all, sorry I couldn't provide the information right away so you all couldve helped fix it... but the bike is 30min from me at my friends house. I still appreciate the help from all of you and I will do everything I can to return the favor if I can.


`
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-27-2011, 08:06 PM
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awesome bro, good show, ride it!!!!

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-28-2011, 03:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B3N View Post
OKAY!... Sorry for the delayed post, but the problem has been solved. Not sure exactly what he did, but that mechanic/guy worked his magic and narrowed it down to the neutral switch. Bypassed it for testing and it starts and runs perfectly now.

Thank you all, sorry I couldn't provide the information right away so you all couldve helped fix it... but the bike is 30min from me at my friends house. I still appreciate the help from all of you and I will do everything I can to return the favor if I can.

Good to hear mate!

It was in my list ;)
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