blown head gasket? - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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blown head gasket?

so my friend was riding home today and the bike started over heating. once it was up to 230 he pulled over and coolant was flowing out the overflow and inside the bottle looks like this. blown head gasket?

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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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he noticed the oil level was a little lower than usual

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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 09:39 PM
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he noticed the oil level was a little lower than usual
Drain the oil and see what ya got

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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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yeah i told him too

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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 11:55 PM
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thats some nasty **** in thurr!
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-26-2012, 12:16 AM
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that doesnt really look like oil + coolant. Usually when theres a blown head gasket, the oil level increases, unless its different with bikes.
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-26-2012, 12:32 AM
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exhaust gasses seem to be getting in the coolant overflow, i believe to be the reason why the coolant was overflowing, i would say right when you take took the cap off the overflow smell it to see if it smells like exhaust, which it most likely would have, and that pretty much says that its the headgasket..... exact thing happened with my friends accord

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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-26-2012, 07:13 AM
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Yep... you cooked the motor.

Just a head gasket if your lucky, but a lot more could have gone wrong as well... have fun cleaning out the cooling system, and good luck with it!
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-26-2012, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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he sent me this photo this morning. this came out of the cooling system line when he unhooked it

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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-26-2012, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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goin there tonight to rip off the cylinder head and have a look. should be interesting

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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-26-2012, 09:16 PM
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if its look like that already buy a new motor youll never get that crap out of the entire engine and you'll constantly have motor issues... your gonna have to send the head out to be machined and hope the block hasn't warped... a new/used motor will be cheaper and more efficient in the long run

you can probably salvage the radiator just flush the **** outta it but if you have spare cash i personally would replace the radiators and hoses

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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-26-2012, 09:33 PM
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if its look like that already buy a new motor youll never get that **** out and youll constantly have motor issues... your gonna have to send the head out to be machined and hope the block hasnt warped... a new/used motor will be cheaper and more efficient in the long run
^^ he is def. right, dont F with the motor, just replace it, you can find them for under $1000

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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 12:27 AM
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Where can one find a cbr 600rr engine?


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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 12:36 AM
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he sent me this photo this morning. this came out of the cooling system line when he unhooked it
Any one else see a face? Like a sad Lego head?
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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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ok ok ok. the response to get a whole new motor please explain? there is no need to get a whole new motor. ive noticed on this site not too many folks are engine savvy. if something is messed up they usually respond with "get a new motor". lol. ive rebuilt a few of these motors. just did mine actually after it had a seized main journal bearing, worn rings, and leaky valves. why get a whole new motor that i have no idea how well it was maintained when i can tear this one apart, clean it thoroughly, make sure everything is in spec, re lube it all and put back together for maybe $80 total. and please explain what you mean by "warped". its all moving mechaical parts that can be replaced. also i have 2 spare blocks and 2 spare cylinder heads. here are some pics of the latest motor rebuild





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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 01:29 AM Thread Starter
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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but i do have a spare oil cooler, water pump, thermostat and housing, all the coolant lines to replace them. may need a new radiator and we are cleaning the stuff from round the cylinders.

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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 01:34 AM
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I am a mechanic... i do this for a living..(cars mainly) but when you over heat a motor like this esp. aluminum they do not like it was cause warping cause **** gets very very hot and the cooling cause stuff to change so the proper way to check the head would be to have it sent out and have the deck milled to spec.. if you dont have a tru straight edge to check if the head it self warped... also coolant was running through oil passages rod bearings and main bearing are not to happy when coolant runs through those...also seals usually expand when coolant comes in contact with them...oil also lubes are clutch packs so now you have oil contaminating the fiber clutchs also going to cause premature wear

It looks like you have a little more mechanic ability than most so it looks like you could handle a full rebuild and be satisfied with your finds/results... most people on here suggest buyin the new motor due to that fact of **** im going to have to take this somewhere to be rebuilt and then put back into your bike... so dropping a motor and putting one right back in would be more beneficial for someone with the lack of mechanic ability

so back to the motor that just came out... the stuff that came out of the oil looks like toothpaste so i bet that headgasket was leaking alot longer than just a day to turn out looking like that.. your buddy probably just didnt notice till it finally let loose...

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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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if its look like that already buy a new motor youll never get that crap out of the entire engine and you'll constantly have motor issues... your gonna have to send the head out to be machined and hope the block hasn't warped...
please explain in very good detail please. the entire engine? once you pull the cylinder head off its easily accessible to clean it up. why would i need the cylinder head machined? and what are you meaning by machined? and what motor issues would i have? and what do you mean by the block being warped?

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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 01:46 AM
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ok when i said constantly im not saying you def couldnt get away with just slappin a head gasket on it and calling it a day but thats not right way to due things... when you send a head out to a machine shop they will reseat valves.. put it through a flow bench... and by mill the deck what i mean by that is where the bottom of the head meets the head gasket and top of the block.. what happens is when it get very very hot it cause the aluminum to be wavy which you may not notice by your eye...granted if you catch a blown head gasket early it wont automatically cause the deck to warp. so having a straight edge(professional tool) you can tell if its warped... if it is then it needs to be milled(shaved down) so it equal all around which will create a good seal.. that way you dont go through all this hassle and the things leaks again.. and cleaning it properly what happens to coolant when it gets very hott it turns to almost a solid which since its flowing through oil passages can cause it to be plugged causing possible one cylinder to not be lubricate or a bearing can not get oil again causing you to have a premature failure but i believe you said his oil level was low and not over full which is a good sign actually correction better sign

how do the cross hatches look inside the cylinder walls?

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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 01:57 AM
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Any ideas where to find a used 600 engine?


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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 02:01 AM
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i did notice that you said the oil level was low which is a better sign than the oil be over full... which indicates that oil was going into coolant passages rather than coolant gettin into oil passages...you could get away with just slapping a head gasket on the thing but piece of mind idk if it will be fully their...if your confident on a rebuild and you can do it costly and fast then give it a shot worse thing that happens is you gotta pull the motor and put a new one in . ultimately its you and your buddy choice i can only suggest.

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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 02:02 AM
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Any ideas where to find a used 600 engine?


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check for sale threads/Craiglist/ or simpsoncycles.com

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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for the explanation and i knew pretty much what you meant. it helps when people do searches and read threads for someone to explain these terms. everything in the cylinder head still looks good. just the coolant lines are screwed

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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 10:14 AM
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(I realise that you probably already realise this but...) Given the heat that will have gone through the engine, when you remove the head bolts do them a quarter turn at a time going through the tightening sequence backwards, it will help take pressure off evenly and reduce the chances of warping it after the fact...

It may be easier in the end to pull it down and have the block acid dipped... simplest way I know of to remove all that oil and water... also allows you to get a good good look at it for any cracks.

If you have access to an NDT lab it would also be worthwhile checking the head and top of the block with dye penetrant to detect any cracks, and mag particle testing the crank and cam shafts...

If there is no cracks, then giving the head a shave probably isn't a bad idea...
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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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i got two spare blocks and a cylinder head. probably gonna use one of those

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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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the bike never got over 230 degrees. i dont see how it couldve got warped

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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 10:18 PM
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the bike never got over 230 degrees. i dont see how it couldve got warped
Because he shut it off after 230 degree's . that temperature is still rising after

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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 10:24 PM
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the bike never got over 230F degrees. i dont see how it couldve got warped
Not quite...

The temp sender never got over 230 degrees... the cylinder walls on the other hand can (not saying they did) exceed 500C within seconds of loosing cooling. The combustion temps can get damn close to 2000C... the only thing that keeps the engine from doing the same is the cooling system, and once you turn that into sludge that wont circulate the temps around the cylinders tend to rise quite quickly.
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