HELP with gauge leds... - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-29-2012, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation HELP with gauge leds...

First i make the gauge mod to my 2007 RR and i had some small issues. Some leds didn't light continiously..
I let it like it was and after 2-3 days the leds were ok. So my brother saw the mod and want me to do it to his bike.
We open the gauge change the and i some leds didn't light continiously and some didn't light. I will post a video to see what is happening..
I check the soldering again change them with new but nothing. They light for a couple of seconds and then stop..

What is the problem anyone know..?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-29-2012, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Somebody with electronic knowledge...?


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-29-2012, 09:17 PM
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I would make sure that you have good solder joints. There are many YouTube videos of how to do it. What is the wattage of your Soldering Iron? You may have burnt the inside of the LED if you had to much heat on it for to long. Try putting an old LED back on it and see if the problem continues.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-29-2012, 09:35 PM
 
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Are the led's the same that are replacing with? Voltage has to be close otherwise they can burn up if the resistance is incorrect. Check to make sure you don't have a cold solder. Run back over the solder real quick to make sure it's a good contact.




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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-30-2012, 05:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanO View Post
I would make sure that you have good solder joints. There are many YouTube videos of how to do it. What is the wattage of your Soldering Iron? You may have burnt the inside of the LED if you had to much heat on it for to long. Try putting an old LED back on it and see if the problem continues.
I check the solder joints again and again... I will check the youtube to see if something is wrong. The S. iron is 30 watt. I think i put back on an old led and happens the same, i don't remember for sure i will ask my brother. Thank you for your informations



Quote:
Originally Posted by tripage View Post
Are the led's the same that are replacing with? Voltage has to be close otherwise they can burn up if the resistance is incorrect. Check to make sure you don't have a cold solder. Run back over the solder real quick to make sure it's a good contact.
Yes the leds are the same... FORGOT to say that after two-three days with the bike off the led light again for a while and stop again. If the voltage was wrong i should have problem with all the leds and not only these two in these two positions, should i? I was melting the solder on the leds and check them sometimes it lights a bit and sometimes no... I will check the soldering again and i will put some new leds to see what happens thank you T


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-30-2012, 08:46 PM
 
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I would look at a cold solder on the led's, but make sure nothing else on the cluster was hit and jarred loose. A resistor or something going to those 2 led's. T




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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2012, 04:52 AM
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A cold / dry joint can cause that... and 30W is to much for surface mount LEDs, 15W would be better...

Are you sure you have the correct LEDs if you are sitting right on the point that they light up the slight variations in the voltage going to them and manufacturing differences between each LED could cause them to flicker as well...
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2012, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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I have an idea... Tell me if it is right. I am thinking of desolder the leds again and check the voltage on the contacts (with multimeter) without led to see if there is something wrong... Maybe a resistor or something like T says is dead or dies and the leds dont light...? Am i right? Could i do it?


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2012, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico View Post
A cold / dry joint can cause that... and 30W is to much for surface mount LEDs, 15W would be better...

Are you sure you have the correct LEDs if you are sitting right on the point that they light up the slight variations in the voltage going to them and manufacturing differences between each LED could cause them to flicker as well...
What do you mean with that "cold / dry joint" and "if you are sitting right on the point that they light up the slight variations in the voltage going to them and manufacturing differences between each LED could cause them to flicker"
Sorry but my english is bad
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Akrapovic Ti Slip-on-----Arrow headers
Dynojet PowerCommander V -----Dynojet Autotune
Tripage IT RED
Racing windscreen -----Flushmount turn signals-----Frame sliders
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Bi-xenon projector 6000k white angel eyes
1000RR Led mirrors


My built:https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=226731
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2012, 11:13 AM
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a cold/dry joint is one that has resistance in it... cold joints form as a result of not having enough heat, dry joints for as a result of having to much heat or corrosion on the components being soldered...

The way LEDs work they have a particular voltage that they begin to work at, if you are sitting right around it then sometimes it will work other times it won't.

And no, disconnecting an LED to measure the voltage isn't going to work... quite the opposite actually, what you read is going to be very very wrong....
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