Rear brake dragging - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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Rear brake dragging

My rear pads were getting pretty worn so i decided to replace them. I've done this before with no issues but I've run into a problem this time around.

The rear brake is dragging and is causing the rotor to heat up to the point that water sizzles on it.

I pushed the piston in as far as it would go and the pads are seated correctly in the caliper... when the bike is on a rear stand I only get 1/4 - 1/2 revolution of the wheel when spun by hand.

The rear brake lever is returning to the up position after I depress it.

What is causing the brake to drag so much?? I've never had this problem before.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 01:26 PM
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Could be that your caliper piston needs to be cleaned. What did it look like when you were putting the new pads in?

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo Romeo View Post
My rear pads were getting pretty worn so i decided to replace them. I've done this before with no issues but I've run into a problem this time around.

The rear brake is dragging and is causing the rotor to heat up to the point that water sizzles on it.

I pushed the piston in as far as it would go and the pads are seated correctly in the caliper... when the bike is on a rear stand I only get 1/4 - 1/2 revolution of the wheel when spun by hand.

The rear brake lever is returning to the up position after I depress it.

What is causing the brake to drag so much?? I've never had this problem before.
Check your wheel alignment. Spinning off canter like that will cause an eliptical rotation of your rotor and can cause all sorts of problems.

You can also take the caliper off push the pistons out further (using the pedal) then get on there with q-tip or similar SOFT (imperative) swab and use a dab of brake fluid to clean them off. You should see clean metal and not any sort of grime. Be sure not to push the lever enough to either push a piston out or suck air into the line.


Also, you can check your MC and make sure that the fluid return circuit isn't clogged.

Depress the pedal fully until you can't push any more. Fully release pedal, wait 5 seconds and then open the bleed screw on the caliper. If a bunch of fluid comes out then you've got a problem and the small hole inside your M/C that allows fluid to refill the chamber is clogged and retains pressure in the line.

Last edited by oldschooldesigns; 05-05-2012 at 01:38 PM. Reason: help checking M/C
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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From what I remember it was lightly oxidized. Forgive my ignorance but how could a "dirty" piston cause the brake to drag? Would it prevent the piston from retracting?

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 01:36 PM
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Sounds like ur caliper is sticking.....
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo Romeo View Post
From what I remember it was lightly oxidized. Forgive my ignorance but how could a "dirty" piston cause the brake to drag? Would it prevent the piston from retracting?
Exactly, if it's impeding the piston from retracting into the caliper then it's behaving as though it's under pressure at all times. It's a minimal exertion on the pad but nonetheless it will push it lightly into the rotor.

Was it build up or just discoloured? If you pushed that material on the piston passed the seal inside the caliper then you might have contaminated your fluid and you're still going to have a problem with it sticking.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo Romeo View Post
From what I remember it was lightly oxidized. Forgive my ignorance but how could a "dirty" piston cause the brake to drag? Would it prevent the piston from retracting?
It's normaly the brake dust which starts collecting and should be thoroughly cleaned out when installing all brake pads. There shouldn't be any oxidizing causing this problem. When you press in the pads in during the installation process, lots of that brake dust can be pushed inside the wall of the piston and cylinder portion of the caliper. They should be cleaned before and after the process to make sure nothing is getting clogged in between. You can also check for scoring on the surface of the piston, that could also cause the brake to drag. Since it's very easy, take it off and do a quick inspection.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the replies guys. I'll tear it apart tomorrow when I get some time and see if I can't get this figured out.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 07:34 AM
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Dirty pistons or wheel alignment...
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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well... gave it another try today and had no luck. cleaned the piston off until it was nice and shiny and it still drags. the wheel is definitely aligned too. not sure whats causing it to drag.

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
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well... gave it another try today and had no luck. cleaned the piston off until it was nice and shiny and it still drags. the wheel is definitely aligned too. not sure whats causing it to drag.
Did you bed the pads properly? Did you prep the rotor for new pads?

How much of the piston did you clean? Just the portion showing after you pulled the rim off or did you push the pistons out further and clean as much as possible?

Are there any other problems that manifested at the same time?

Sorry for all the questions, but diagnosing an illusive problem via the interweb is challenging!

The fact that the rotor only contacts at select points should be an indication of something spinning out of round. And bear in mind, that aligned with the stock markings on the swingarm do not necessarily mean it's aligned. Ask me how I know that, I'll tell you an expensive way to figure that one out

Google string method tire alignment, there are many ways of aligning it properly but that's what I used after paying someone $150 to look at it when I couldn't get rid of a wobble, and guess what it was.... TIRE ALIGNMENT!

A way to do a check for rotor run-out too is to scribe a line on there with a sharpie or similar (just don't use a grease pen) and spin the tire, where it gets worn off is where there is a potential problem. Make sure there isn't detritus on the back side of the rotor causing it to be raised from the rim.
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