Clutch won't disengage , no play on lever - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 02:34 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch won't disengage , no play on lever

Hi All. I need help. Problem I have on the bike, for the second time this week is that when pulling off on and when accelerating on any gear, the bike won't accelerate but rather revs up. The clutch is not disengaging. The lever on the clutch is also very tight and has absolutely no play.

Please advise!


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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 02:43 AM
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Have you checked the hoses hanging underneath the bike? They might be clogged.

Just messin around dude. Your clutch cable sounds like it might be on too tight, play with the adjusting screw on both the lever and clutch side. Also the line might have gotten crimped somehow, check the line.

Sent while sitting on the crapper.

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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 02:48 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks man. I have had to park the bike at my friend's place since I could not ride it. I tried playing around with the screws on the clutch cable but there was no result. Instead it would at times not disengage at all even if I left the clutch lever completely. No lurching forward. I did not touch the screw on the clutch lever itself. I just wish that the kit does not need to be replaced.


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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 02:55 AM
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Clutch cables are easy enough to replace any how. But Dynamic is right, check your slack at the lever and adjust from there. Worst case scenario, you have a worn cable.

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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 03:03 AM
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If the line is damaged they are pretty inexpensive to replace and about an hours work at home with basic tools. It doesn't sound like its a clutch issue.

Is the lever springing back after you release it? If no there might be a problem with the spring.

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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 04:27 AM Thread Starter
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The lever does spring back when released.


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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Spoke to a mechanic who thinks the clutch could be burned out. Could it be? I hope not.


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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fikile View Post
Spoke to a mechanic who thinks the clutch could be burned out. Could it be? I hope not.


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That's one thing that could cause it but I'd be looking at the cable first. The OEM part from Honda is just over 20 bucks and takes literally 5 minutes to change.
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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OEM? Please excuse my ignorance.


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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 10:37 AM
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OEM? Please excuse my ignorance.
Original equipment, Honda branded replacements.
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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 10:44 AM
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Wait, the clutch won't DISENGAGE, or won't ENGAGE?


It sounds to me like it's either not fully engaging, or it's worn. Am I reading this correctly? Either way, I agree with everything stated above.

1) Adjust the slack in your cable. It's possible that it's too tight and not letting the clutch fully re-engage after shifting.

2) If this has been going on for a while (that is, you've been slipping your clutch constantly while riding), it's possible that your clutch is toast.

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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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I have adjusted but still no slack. Guess its toasted


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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
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I have adjusted but still no slack. Guess its toasted
That doesn't make any sense, you should be able to adjust the cable so that you have slack unless the cable itself is jacked and not moving freely.
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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I adjusted the fr slack all the way up. No slack whatsoever . When I tighten it, then the clutch does not disengage at all.


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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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The cable also feels tight as it runs around the fork


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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 11:42 AM
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You should be able to create slack in the cable...unless it was previously replaced with one that was too short.

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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fikile View Post
The cable also feels tight as it runs around the fork


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In that case remove the cable from the lever and re-run it on the inside of the fork. Max tension on the outside giving you no room for adjusting.

Sent while sitting on the crapper.

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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 05:03 PM
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No one's going to mention that you can just look over toward your right foot and see if the cable is moving?
Look at the little lever beside your oil fill cap. If it moves when you squeeze the clutch and the pressure and return on the lever feels mostly normal, the disks are spent.

Your clutch is disengaged, you want it to engage.
Taking the slack out of your cable will not help this.
It could be a cable but it wouldn't spring back normally.
It's most likely the clutch.

OP, can you post a pic of your clutch cable routing? Someone, would have to work to screw that up.

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Last edited by moto1320; 05-26-2012 at 05:05 PM. Reason: pic request
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moto1320 View Post
No one's going to mention that you can just look over toward your right foot and see if the cable is moving?
Look at the little lever beside your oil fill cap. If it moves when you squeeze the clutch and the pressure and return on the lever feels mostly normal, the disks are spent.
I believe I mentioned this in my first reply but may have worded it different.


Sent while sitting on the crapper.

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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2012, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamic View Post
I believe I mentioned this in my first reply but may have worded it different.


Sent while sitting on the crapper.
I know man, he's running short on technical specifics from his first post.

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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
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I have taken the bike in yesterday for repairs. I got A call earlier today saying that there was another place where the clutch play could be manipulated. This was corrected and the bike felt fine. However within 300 meters of riding the clutch did the same thing again.


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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 07:41 AM
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If its doing the same thing then its probably an adjustment issue again. If you have a friend that can help that might be the best idea, otherwise I think pictures would be the most helpful and we can just point to what you need to do on them.

By the way:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamic View Post
Have you checked the hoses hanging underneath the bike? They might be clogged.

Just messin around dude. Your clutch cable sounds like it might be on too tight, play with the adjusting screw on both the lever and clutch side. Also the line might have gotten crimped somehow, check the line.

Sent while sitting on the crapper.
Quote:
Originally Posted by moto1320 View Post
No one's going to mention that you can just look over toward your right foot and see if the cable is moving?
Look at the little lever beside your oil fill cap. If it moves when you squeeze the clutch and the pressure and return on the lever feels mostly normal, the disks are spent.

Your clutch is disengaged, you want it to engage.
Taking the slack out of your cable will not help this.
It could be a cable but it wouldn't spring back normally.
It's most likely the clutch.

OP, can you post a pic of your clutch cable routing? Someone, would have to work to screw that up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fikile View Post
I have taken the bike in yesterday for repairs. I got A call earlier today saying that there was another place where the clutch play could be manipulated. This was corrected and the bike felt fine. However within 300 meters of riding the clutch did the same thing again.


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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-29-2012, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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I have received a quote. I need to replace friction and clutch plates.


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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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An update: I have received another quote that says that I must pay for the replacement of 3 cam chain guides, a gasket, a tensioner and the chain guide. Could this be? I bought the bike only last month and have only used the bike for just over two weeks.

Confession: I did a short burnout. Yes, that was stupid! But could the whole clutch kit and the cam chain stuff all need replacing so soon? I feel like I'm being ripped off here. Plus I did request that the cam chain mechanics be checked when I bought the bike.

My previous posts: I was trying to understand your objective thoughts on the things I was experiencing and being told by the mechanic.

Please advise...


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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-12-2012, 12:43 AM
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Confession: I did a short burnout.
Lol. Just made my day...

There's no such thing as too much CF.
Click HERE for my build thread!
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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 08:29 PM
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This is great . Unfortunately I am in a bit of a bind with my clutch . Not trying to jack your thread I will start my own. But I just replaced my fibers and clutch is toast again in less then 1000 miles any ideas really pissed off here.. quick note don't take your bike to the shop in s.a.

SO DAMN STREET.

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Last edited by SoDamnStreet; 06-13-2012 at 08:31 PM. Reason: editing
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 08:41 PM
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What is causing this

SO DAMN STREET.

FAMILY 1ST M.C. LOUISVILLE KY
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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 09:02 PM
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Street what oil are you using?

@ Will
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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 09:07 PM
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Honda Gn4 oil

SO DAMN STREET.

FAMILY 1ST M.C. LOUISVILLE KY

Last edited by SoDamnStreet; 06-13-2012 at 09:10 PM. Reason: misspelled
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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
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What is causing this
If the adjustment was out and it was allowing it to slip just a little you can burn a new one up in no time.

Also, you should break a new clutch in. Did you do a "short burnout" with your new clutch too, lol?

Once, I bumped into one of my customers at the drag strip the night I put his clutch in with the break in instructions still in the passenger seat. 3 days later, no clutch.

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