Troubleshoot - Cam Chain Tensioner CCT ??? - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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Troubleshoot - Cam Chain Tensioner CCT ???

I have had a hard crash, and my season started way too late. Now it has anyway. I have been riding a few miles on the street, instructed on a course i may and not really more than that. The bike felt ok anyway, I even let a friend who is a good rider test it too get rid of my fears for a technical failure.

But at the first practice last tuesday I thought that it "ticked" a bit more than usual, and asked a friend to listen to it. He revved it up to 7-8k rpm, and on the way down (engine break) there was a kind of "burring" sound from inside on the right side. Sounds like the cam chain rattles for a second and several people has said instantly that itīs the CCT. Iīve also found alot online that indicates that the stock CCT is bad and often brakes.

I have two questions ībout this.

1. First, the CCT are supposed to "lock" and arenīt reversible - right? In that case, I suppose it can reverse a little anyway, but how much? Cause if itīs "nothing" (not likely) the chain shouldnīt rattle even if the CCT stops pushing unless the chain has been streched. And in that case the problem is more severe than just the CCT.

Comments on this PLEASE! But if you guess or speculate, be clear about that to avoid confusion.

2. I have already ordered a new CCT, seems like a good start anyway. When changing this, do I have to dismount the engine top (donīt know the englsh word for it) to make sure that the chain dont "jumps" over the camshaft pinion?

When looking in the manual, it looks likes thereīs a plate ontop of the chain and pinions to make that impossible, but I donīt want to gamle with it and risk valve-salad at first start up.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 09:47 AM
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Hmmmm... wish I knew the answer to this. I did a quick search and found that this can be a very sensitive area on the bike. If you aren't confident and mechanically incline according to the threads I read. Adjusting/tightening/replacing the cam chain incorrectly will lead to a blown motor within seconds of starting the bike. It does not appear to be a How-2 thread on this matter... therefore I would recommend that you wait for Nico or Tenjin or Sincal to chim in on this matter. Nico more likely can provide you with proper instructions on how to tackle this.

Since you have the parts... is there a reputable shop in the area that you trust and reasonably price you can take the bike and parts to?

Sorry wish I could be more of an assistance.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 10:14 AM
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Changing out the CCT isn't very mechanically difficult. on the 07+ bikes it can be a b!tch because the CCT is nearly innaccessable.. but on the 03-06 bikes it is much easier.

Nico has a "how-to" thread on replacing the CCT

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Str8_Lurkin View Post
If you aren't confident and mechanically incline according to the threads I read.

-Str8
Yup, hopefully Nico has some input that clarifies this.

Iīm not afraid to open the cylinder head or do a valve clearance check. Below that, and mess with the crankshaft, lifting off cylinders and such.. That I donīt like.

My problem now is time, lazyness and general trouble shooting.

Is the chain locked to the camshaft pinions by that "plate/bridge" that is ontop according to the service manual?

If the chain is "locked" to the camshaft pinions, do I still have to put it TDC?

Above meaning, do I have to lift the cylinder head to "secure" the chain from hopping over the pinions? (Put a strap through it or something)

If not, should I lift it anyway to check for something else?

Is it common that the CCT fails? The is a ī06 and hasnīt much mileage.

Does anyone have pictures on the special tool for the CCT, so that I can make one similar to it?

Before mounting the new CCT, one should "fill it" with oil. Do I need the special tool for that?

Can anyone explain, or link to a explanation of a more detailed describtion of the CCTs function mechanically?

Last, can this have anything to do with me changing oil to a 10w-50 racing oil?

And is there anything Iīve missed? Could it "likely" be anything else that Iīm not thinking of? Up til now the bike has been perfect and the only thing I can think of is that I thought it ticked a bit more than normal, then again - itīs a 5 year old racebike, and last years "tick" was really not anything to be hanged up about.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Oh, and itīs a 600RR -06 prepped for SuperStock (stock engine) with full akra and PC III yadda yadda...

Nothing should be strange inside of it anyway.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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...bump...

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 11:17 AM
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Look i change mine alone.. My father is a car mechanic and i am in the last year of my studies to be car mechanic. So i know some things about it. It is very easy to change the CCT.


1) I align the T mark with the index mark on the right crankcase cover.
You can dismount the cylinder head cover to see the camshafts marks "IN" & "OUT" but i don't think it is necessary
2) Then remove the screw from the end of the tensioner and insert a tool like the new tensioner's tool and unscrew (clockwise) the inside bolt of the tensioner and lock it in position.

3) Then unscrew the two tensioner bolts and pull it out

4) Insert the new CCT and gasket (tensioner in zero position with the tool locked and the lifter inside the tensioner)

5) Tighten the two bolts and pull the CCT tool. You will hear the tensioner to be extended

6) Tighten the screw on the back of the tensioner and turn the crankshaft clockwise 2-3 turns and check while turning around that there is no case that the motor can't be turned.
If you dismount the cylinder head cover check the camshafts marks "IN" & "OUT" to be in position with the T mark an the mark on the crankcase cover
You can start your engine!!!

Hope that this helps you

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Last edited by mechanictp; 06-20-2012 at 11:23 AM. Reason: wrong word
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agile View Post
Yup, hopefully Nico has some input that clarifies this.

Iīm not afraid to open the cylinder head or do a valve clearance check. Below that, and mess with the crankshaft, lifting off cylinders and such.. That I donīt like.

My problem now is time, lazyness and general trouble shooting.

Is the chain locked to the camshaft pinions by that "plate/bridge" that is ontop according to the service manual?

If the chain is "locked" to the camshaft pinions, do I still have to put it TDC?

Above meaning, do I have to lift the cylinder head to "secure" the chain from hopping over the pinions? (Put a strap through it or something)

If not, should I lift it anyway to check for something else?

Is it common that the CCT fails? The is a ī06 and hasnīt much mileage.

Does anyone have pictures on the special tool for the CCT, so that I can make one similar to it?

Before mounting the new CCT, one should "fill it" with oil. Do I need the special tool for that?

Can anyone explain, or link to a explanation of a more detailed describtion of the CCTs function mechanically?

Last, can this have anything to do with me changing oil to a 10w-50 racing oil?

And is there anything Iīve missed? Could it "likely" be anything else that Iīm not thinking of? Up til now the bike has been perfect and the only thing I can think of is that I thought it ticked a bit more than normal, then again - itīs a 5 year old racebike, and last years "tick" was really not anything to be hanged up about.

Honestly bro I have no Ideal. I would have thought Nico would have chimmed in already. I wonder if there is a How-2 thread for this.

Perhaps this guy^ knows what he is talking about. Sorry! BEst


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& MORE
.



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