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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Need your help!!! Please!

Hello So I was riding yesterday and my gauge cluster wasn't working, BUT my clock and my high beams were still on. I get home and check my bike, turns out my FE kit fell off and was caught in between the rear tire huger and my wheel. So Im pissed cause my FE is New and now its broken. ANY WAYS! the wires ended getting melted which to my understanding caused the fuse to burn out which caused my gauge cluster to fail along with my turn signals.I detach the back break lights and turns signals until I can fix or replace them. I check my fuses and turns out my two of my fuses went out(2 red a10 fuses). So I go ahead and replace them and turn on my bike. The gauge starts and the back brake lights and turns signals don't because I detached them because they were burnt. Sounds good right?...Nope.... As soon as I turn on my engine my fuse for my gauge cluster blows..... Now im at a loss cause I don't understand why it blew again when I already detached the burnt wires(brake and turn signal wires)!

PLEASE HELP!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 04:12 PM
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Youve grounded the melted wires out. Make sure you seperate the green wires from the melted bundle.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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Youve grounded the melted wires out. Make sure you seperate the green wires from the melted bundle.

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I did, I detached the whole bundle. Still the gauge cluster fuse blows when I start the bike, even with the brake lights and rear turn signals not plugged in.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 06:22 PM
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Blown fuse means one thing an electrical short some where



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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 06:35 PM
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Whilst I was waiting for my bike to be serviced today, I was chatting to a bloke who crashed his 08' gsxr 1000 track bike. So he's repaired it all and the engine wouldn't start, so he found out that there is a relay, which is the turn signal relay, that also controls the engines 'start' function, without it the engine would not start.

And the owner of the shop stated that they use the turn signal relay for a large range of things on the bikes electrical system.

Long story short, maybe the fuse is blowing because it senses a fault in the system, like a broken circuit or something? I don't know but it could be something to look at?


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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Blown fuse means one thing an electrical short some where
Yeah I understand but the weird part was. I know or thought I knew the source(FE kit) so I detached it. I can turn on the bike and the gauge will work but as soon as I start the engine the fuse blows. << Thats with the Fe kit detached.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by attran84 View Post
Yeah I understand but the weird part was. I know or thought I knew the source(FE kit) so I detached it. I can turn on the bike and the gauge will work but as soon as I start the engine the fuse blows. << Thats with the Fe kit detached.
Check the bike's main ground wire it's bolted to the frame on the left side I believe this info is from memory so I might be wrong make sure that wire is
Not corroded and a tight connection . Have you done any other electrical repairs on the bike ?



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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XoHoyoX View Post
Long story short, maybe the fuse is blowing because it senses a fault in the system, like a broken circuit or something? I don't know but it could be something to look at?


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fuses don't sense faults. Fuses are designed to melt upon an overload or short (you melting multiple wires together). A fuses sole purpose is to protect the equipment in this case your gauges. Without fuses a short would destroy the circuit board on your gauges. Like mentioned above there is another short somewhere or two colored wires are still melted together sending too much load through the fuse. Good luck with the search.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2012, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moeman View Post
Check the bike's main ground wire it's bolted to the frame on the left side I believe this info is from memory so I might be wrong make sure that wire is
Not corroded and a tight connection . Have you done any other electrical repairs on the bike ?
Yes I installed a hyperflo w/ their FE kit a month or so back. The wires did touch my pipes and the rubber around the wires melted so I'm pretty sure that the cause of the fuse to blow but what I don't understand is why would it still blow after I disconnected those wires.

**Another question. After the rubber on the wires have melted can I just re- rap the wire? Since it was exposed to really high heat is the wire useless now? << Let me know if that made any sense.

Ohh also left a part bit out... I know there is two a10 fuses on the bottom left corner but I only had one in (one for the gauge) I don't know if that helps. I ran out of a10 fuses so.... I'm screwed till for a few days till I can buy more

Last edited by attran84; 09-16-2012 at 12:03 AM. Reason: ..
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2012, 11:42 AM
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Can you see any black marks on the wiring from an arc burn?
If not you can use heatshrink (my recommendation because it looks better) or e-tape safely. Your exhaust shouldn't be getting that hot either, if there are black marks on the wire its from an arc, exhaust can temp SHOULDN'T discolor the metal in the wiring.

When the FE got caught, did it pull the sheath off of any of the wires?


I'd recommend going to your local hardware store and pick up a cheap multimeter and start checking the live wires for continuity to ground.

The fact that it doesn't trip when it's attached to the battery (with key on) means something; yes, there is more amp draw when you hit the starter but the two systems are completely separate outside of sharing the battery; in fact they should be completely "off" when you hit the starter.

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2012, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschooldesigns View Post
Can you see any black marks on the wiring from an arc burn?
If not you can use heatshrink (my recommendation because it looks better) or e-tape safely. Your exhaust shouldn't be getting that hot either, if there are black marks on the wire its from an arc, exhaust can temp SHOULDN'T discolor the metal in the wiring.

When the FE got caught, did it pull the sheath off of any of the wires?


I'd recommend going to your local hardware store and pick up a cheap multimeter and start checking the live wires for continuity to ground.

The fact that it doesn't trip when it's attached to the battery (with key on) means something; yes, there is more amp draw when you hit the starter but the two systems are completely separate outside of sharing the battery; in fact they should be completely "off" when you hit the starter.
Excuse my noobness but what does "ground" mean?

And yeah When the FE kit fell off it got caught between my wheel and the rear huger(Driving didn't notice it until I got home.). So Im guessing the pipes melted it. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think pipes getting hot is perfectly normal.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2012, 09:49 PM
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Ground is the negative wire side in any wire connection



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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by attran84 View Post
Excuse my noobness but what does "ground" mean?

And yeah When the FE kit fell off it got caught between my wheel and the rear huger(Driving didn't notice it until I got home.). So Im guessing the pipes melted it. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think pipes getting hot is perfectly normal.
Pipes getting hot is one thing but it takes a surprising amount to melt the cover on wires. Most of the wires on a motorcycle are all designed to withstand pretty high heat as they are within components that get very hot. Usually a burn is from electrical problems ie arcing to the ground through a wear point on a given wire.


And Moeman is right, in order for any electrical component on a motorcycle to work (in DC) it must have a live and ground.

When a live wire gets frayed or torn before it can otherwise find it's way normally to ground (aka through the harness), it will pull as much current as it can when it shorts and blows the fuse.



Do you have any pictures of the damage? That would simplify this a lot.

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