PCV/Battery problem - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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PCV/Battery problem


I installed the PCV, started it up with Dynojet's map for my setup yesterday and it ran fine. I added a new map and made some calibration changes to the TPS. Above was the result.

It sounds like the battery is the problem but it detriorated rather quickly in under 24 hours. I did hear clicking from the PCV as well when starting up.

Appreciate the help.

EDIT: I also should add that when I started it yesterday it did sound like the battery had slightly less of a punch to it than normal and making the aforementioned changes on the PCV while the ignition was on (engine off) lasted for around 7 mins.

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Last edited by Rad Rage; 01-11-2014 at 09:19 PM.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 01:44 AM
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That's a dead battery. You cant troubleshoot further until you charge it


When doing mapping and other changes to the bike its a good idea to pull the headlight fuse. You need the ignition on to talk to the pc, and with a 55 watt headlight drawing on the battery you'll kill it quickly.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
That's a dead battery. You cant troubleshoot further until you charge it


When doing mapping and other changes to the bike its a good idea to pull the headlight fuse. You need the ignition on to talk to the pc, and with a 55 watt headlight drawing on the battery you'll kill it quickly.
Thanks for chiming in.

I just added something to the OP. After reading your post I guess that explains it. So do you recommend against any efforts to bump start?

I am quite bummed, but considering it's the stock battery on a 2011 model, I guess I got all I can from it.

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 01:55 AM
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The battery in my rc51 lasted 10 years. Its just dead.

If you're going to bump start it you'll have to ride it for a while. Your charging system puts out very little at idle. It won't charge much if you just leave it running, you'll have to ride it
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 03:46 AM
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excellent........ LOLZ!!!

get a 12 amp battery charger with automatic voltage regulator & charge it after every use, your batteries will last longer. the PCV & autotune draw lots of juice from the battery apart from the headlights which is why you must always charge it.


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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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excellent........ LOLZ!!!

get a 12 amp battery charger with automatic voltage regulator & charge it after every use, your batteries will last longer. the PCV & autotune draw lots of juice from the battery apart from the headlights which is why you must always charge it.
Yes, it sucked being all geared up firing it up with high spirits only to go back home wanting to punch the wall.

Best battery in your experience if I do/don't get the charger in case this battery doesn't hold the charge after an hour of straight riding?

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 09:57 AM
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the yuasa ytz10s is a really good battery but those gel type batteries are pretty good too but i think they require a different type of charger.


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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 10:15 AM
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I have a shorai, but if you want a conventional battery stick with yuasa.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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I had a friend who said he fried his PCV because he bump started his bike a number of times. Any experience with this?

If I pull the trigger on a new battery, it won't be an OEM replacement, Shorai and MOTYDesign are at the top of my list right now.

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 01:57 PM
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Concerning a battery tender, get optimate. These charge almost any type of moto bat apart from lithium, these require a different type.

A well maintained battery can last way longernthan you expect. Problem i found on honda is that hiss drains the battery so you need to take extra good care
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rad Rage View Post
I had a friend who said he fried his PCV because he bump started his bike a number of times. Any experience with this?

If I pull the trigger on a new battery, it won't be an OEM replacement, Shorai and MOTYDesign are at the top of my list right now.

when you say bump start i think push start. ie a friend pushes you down the road and you drop the clutch in 2nd gear and off you go.

if you are referring to boosting the bike with another battery and a set of jumper cables i wouldn't recommend it. if you are going to do that make sure the vehicle containing the other battery is not running.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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when you say bump start i think push start. ie a friend pushes you down the road and you drop the clutch in 2nd gear and off you go.

if you are referring to boosting the bike with another battery and a set of jumper cables i wouldn't recommend it. if you are going to do that make sure the vehicle containing the other battery is not running.
My intention is to bump start it yes, definitely won't try jump starting with cables.

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-10-2014, 10:34 PM
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Can't hurt anything push starting it
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 01:07 AM
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Tripage has some lightweight batteries for EXCELLENT price man.... just letting you know.

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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 01:44 AM Thread Starter
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Well, before bump-starting I turned the ignition on and left it for 30 seconds to bump up the internal resistance before starting, and to no avail. Thankfully I have a short ramp in the garage so I pushed the bike down it and let the clutch out, it started instantly. Left it running until it hit 90 degrees Celsius and it sounded as good as ever until it hit that temperature and throughout. Took it our for a ride and made sure to go for a minimum of 11,000RPM on many shifts throughtout the one hour ride. I'll try starting it normally tomorrow and see if it will hold the charge.

Mack, even though this is an opportunity to purchase a lightweight Lithium battery, I don't want to throw away the battery before I know for a fact that it is a goner.

I did a lot of research on batteries yesterday. The feedback suggests Shorai, or Ballistic and MOTYDesign (which have exactly identical cells). Tripage I know makes quality products but I haven't come across a lot of people running them compared to the aforementioned brands because they are slightly new as far as I know. In terms of price they are all within the 140-150 range so I wouldn't be saving anything regardless of the brand I go with.

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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 01:53 AM
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i have seen many ballistic failures. go shorai if anything.


and i'm curious what you mean when you say "to bump up the internal resistance"
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 02:18 AM Thread Starter
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i have seen many ballistic failures. go shorai if anything.


and i'm curious what you mean when you say "to bump up the internal resistance"
It seems Shorai is the way to go.

It's a tip I have seen recommended many times, with the explanation of "bump up the internal resistance"; it's like saying it warms up the battery so it'll have a better chance of starting up. Don't know if it makes sense from the electrical engineering point of view.

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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 02:23 AM
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Sounds like witchcraft to me.
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds like witchcraft to me.
Well, the trick or the sorcery didn't work on the bike or a car I tried it on, so won't be wasting my time with it again.

Since you are well versed with Shorai, do you recommend the 'duration' or the 'standard' version for someone who primarily rides on weekends.

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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 02:49 AM
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standard is fine. lithiums hold a charge very well and won't die when stored. you can leave it for months without a trickle and it will be strong when you use it again.

a lot of people murder their batteries by over charging them. the lithiums can be left alone without missing a beat.
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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 03:12 AM Thread Starter
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standard is fine. lithiums hold a charge very well and won't die when stored. you can leave it for months without a trickle and it will be strong when you use it again.

a lot of people murder their batteries by over charging them. the lithiums can be left alone without missing a beat.
I don't intend on using a charger ever, so I won't worry about over-charging. I ride twice on the weekends on average so I'll go for the standard then.

On another note, this is from Shorai's website:

Down to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-7C) most users find that they can start normally on first crank. If your headlight comes on at key-ON, it is good for the batteries to flow some current before cranking in cold weather. The suggested headlight-on time before cranking depends on the temperature. If starting at 40F/5C, 30 seconds will help wake the battery and increase cranking performance. If at 0F/-17C, leave the lights on for 4~5 minutes before cranking. The result will be a better first crank, and longer battery life. If the engine fails to start on first crank, that first crank has warmed the battery, and the second attempt will be much stronger. Other accessories that can be turned on before cranking can also be used for this purpose, such as heated gear, radio, etc... Insuring that the battery is fully charged after storage also improves first-start performance in cold weat

So......?

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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 03:27 AM
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that refers to lithium batteries. not standard lead acid batteries.
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