Headlights shorting out 600rr. ** Resolved ** - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-18-2014, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Headlights shorting out 600rr. ** Resolved **

So I'm rebuilding my bike and just got in my headlight sockets and wanted to test them out and everything. So I plug in the bulb and the bike won't turn on then I remove it and it come on. So when the bike is on and you plug in a bulb the bike cuts off everything as if you just cut the battery cabls.

The bike was in a 130mph collision with a wall but the front sub harness didn't seem to have any real damage.
I've replaced all 4 relays and everything works at this point other than the 3 headlights. Even if you plug in the little center one it cuts off. And the tail light is aftermarket integrated and it works. Bike runs and rides great other than this.


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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Really stumped on this, any ideas or thoughts would be a huge help!


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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 03:11 PM
 
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Multi meter and check the power/grounds to the headlight/3rd light and make sure they are all good. I would check your yellow ground block to make sure nothing is burnt out.




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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so the yellow groung block has a wire that's looks to be cooked well done. Nice and brown and everything else is normal yellow. When I touch that wire only and the spot where 3 grounds come together before the three lights the multi meter zeroes out so I'm guessing that that is the ground wire for the headlights.
Does this mean my ground is bad or that something else is causing that ground to cook like that?


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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 07:56 PM
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The wire is cooked means it's not grounded after all cause if it was then no power should be flowing thru it unless there is a short somewhere in that circuit and that short flows thru the ground wire to protect such circuit

In other words
The ground wire is the return path for unused current. The ground wire is an additional path for electrical current to return safely to ground without danger to any electrical component in the event of a short circuit. In that instant, the short would cause the current to flow through the ground wire, causing a fuse to blow instead of frying every component working off that circuit



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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 08:07 PM
 
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Touch that to ground and check your bulb and you should be fine. As Moe stated.




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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 08:08 PM
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Check the stop / kill switch connections cause they can affect flow of current to the low beam head light a loose connection in that housing has affected the flow of current to the low beam head light which might be the reason to that short .

Another part to check is the black plastic socket that holds the head light bulb itself in the 03 to 06 RR it has been a common problem that a short in such socket can occur easily pull the socket off & check both of its prongs for being loose or burn signs if you see any of these signs replace that socket it sells for about five bucks



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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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I don't quite understand what you mean by touch that wire to ground...
But I did some more messing about and found that if I press the horn I get the same result of the bike cutting off.
I checked the switch and all looked well and tight. Could it be anything else to check? Also the sockets for all the lights are new even the little wire harness for the middle bulb


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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Wait a minute!!! Yes I reomoved that wire from the block and held it against the sub frame and the light works.
So how would I be able to get this to ground with out having to rig that wire onto the frame somehow? Would it be the wire at fault or the block or is it something else?


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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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Never mind... The wire against the sub frame only worked once. I'm lost in the dark once more


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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 08:45 PM
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The Bikes main ground connection is on the left side of the bike's frame check it and make sure it's a solid connection . Might as well check the head light relay , fuse . Check out this thread link lots of great effective info about head light gremlins https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=138034&page=1



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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 08:51 PM
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Check the grounding connector on the left side of your bike hidden by the rear seat cowl. There are a bunch of green wires going to the same connector, make sure they're not loose or burnt. If you have 2005-2006 generation, it's on the left hand side sitting on the bike.




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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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My yellow block looks burnt exactly like that one in the picture


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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 08:59 PM
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Because of the short man that is proof of an electrical spark



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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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I'm checking the start button wires right now but they seem fine.


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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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The start button wires are on there tight and the hi low button wires are also tight


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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 09:06 PM
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Not the starter button open the housing for the kill switch and check the kill switch connections if you read the thread link I posted there is enough info to help you thru that process . I would suggest for you to buy a multimeter if you do not have one already comes really handy with solving electrical issues like the one you are dealing with now



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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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I have a meter, and I took apart the switch and the one in the picture is the one that I checked. The wires all seem good and tight.


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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 10:34 PM
 
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Use the meter to check polarity/continuity. You can check for grounds/power and make sure it's working. It will save you tons of time. If you have a nick in the wire and it's grounding on something the wire being tight won't tell you this. If you know it should have power and it's grounding on something causing a short the meter will tell you this.

For the wire that is messed up on the yellow block, you can ground it to another one of the green wires or you can run it to the frame with a single hole attached to a bolt on the frame.




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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2014, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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When checking to see if the wire has power would I turn the bike on and check or would that cause problems?


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post #21 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2014, 10:59 AM
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Got to turn the key on but you do not have to get the bike running to test continuity



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post #22 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2014, 12:20 PM
 
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I would check your grounds with the bike off and mark them. That way you know which one is which. Then turn the key on and check the other wires to see if they have power, also check the grounds again to make sure. You might want to pull the lights off the connection and check just the connections by themselves.




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post #23 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2014, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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So the start switch is all apart and the readings im getting with cheap meter is a number around 450 if there's power and if there's a ground it zeroes out.
Now the only thing that I found when checking all the points I could was on the start switch the black wire give me a number of 140 something. So I followed it to the connector and disconnected that and checked it there and got the same funny number. So I assume this is the wire that is gettin shorted maybe? Though I have no idea where it leads off to.



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post #24 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2014, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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Ok and as I continue guessing I followed it to te relay with red and white wires. So disconnected the relay and now there is nothing on the meter but when I connect the relay and flip the kill switch to on still checking this black wire I now go from the 140 number to the power number of 450 that I get off everything else. So does this mean anything?


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post #25 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2014, 07:25 PM
 
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Put the meter on V for voltage. Not sure which one you have but it should be able to do DC voltage and the other one is the the ))) Where when you touch the 2 leads it beeps. That is continuity. You want to do this to the yellow ground block and the grounds to make sure they are good and also check the power wire on the headlight plug to make sure it's not shorting.




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post #26 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2014, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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So I must be doing this all wrong. Which holes should I put the wires in and should I set it to dcv?Click image for larger version

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post #27 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2014, 07:42 PM
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Red bottom right, black to black. Dial to 20 DC volts. That's to check for power


To check continuity set it at 200 ohm. If a wire is continuous your ohm value should be very low
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post #28 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2014, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Awsome thanks wibbly. So all 3 lights get 12 Volts power and when checking grounds with the ohm setting I get 0.05ish


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post #29 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2014, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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When checking grounds with the bike turned on, not running, I get numbers between 8.5 to 10.5 off the headlights grounds. Still at 200 ohm setting


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post #30 of 38 (permalink) Old 02-20-2014, 08:27 PM
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You dont check resistance on an energized circuit.
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