World Superbike Racer
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Woodbury, MN
Thanked 565 Times in 446 Posts
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Ok, let's do this right because all the above advice is going to cause you nothing but more problems with other things. I had the bolt snap on mine when I was installing Vortex rearsets because the arm was incorrectly manufactured and dealt with this exact problem.
First off, you MUST be EXTREMELY careful not to put pressure inward on the shaft or you will break the keeper on the end and have to pull the clutch cover and clutch basket to replace a $2 part, not fun. Don't know what you've done so far but try pushing the rod in and out by hand, if there is more than 1/8" of play you've already broken the keeper which is extremely easy to do. Ask me how I know this so order one before trying to ride the bike if it's broken already.
Secondly, the actuator arm is splined but the bolt that runs through it rides in a groove on the shaft, you cannot simply pull it or pry it off or again, you'll damage the shaft and/or keeper. That bolt must be removed before the arm comes off and you'll never get a drill bit, easy out, reverse anything in there without putting way too much pressure on the shaft or causing more damage to other things around the area. You already know how tight the area is.
Ok, now that that bad advice items are cleared up you can look at how to get it off the bike. Your best friend will be a Dremel with a cut off wheel, patience and getting the bike into a position you can clearly see what needs to happen and be easily worked on. What you are looking to do is cut the bracket apart without pushing in on the shaft, damaging the splines or cutting into the shaft, which while it is hardened, still can be cut or damaged.
I'd CAREFULLY put a quality Vice Grip on the shaft wedged against the engine case to stop the shaft from moving back but be careful; you want it tight but you don't want to damage the shaft or leave grooves in it. Then looking at your second pic start your cutting wheel from the upper right thinest area and cut into the arm going down towards the splined area. Go slow, go careful and try to cut as much of the arm as you can off in relation to the splined hole; in other words try to cut of a third of the hole if you can. Make sense?
Once you have it almost cut through try prying (slightly) at the cut to break the piece off. But again NO HARD PRESSURE in or out on the shaft. If it doesn't break off cut some more and try again but careful of the splines. It's a cheap cast piece so it will break you just have to weaken it and it'll come apart.
At this point since the upper part of the arm isn't threaded the piece should pull off and if your lucky the arm should come off if you were able to cut enough. If not CAREFULLY cut the broken bolt off as close to the bottom as it enters the arm. Once that's cut it will fall off and if you've been careful you'll have a still intact and undamaged shift shaft ready for your new rearsets. If not clean up the splines with a file, you want them complete and clean. Remove the pliers too :)
Put lots of rags around the area and take your time. It'll make a huge mess and I cannot stress enough how fragile the shift shaft keeper is. I'm very careful and have worked on bikes for over 20 years yet somehow broke mine and like I said had to pull the clutch cover and complete clutch basket off of a 610 mile, under 1 month old bike because of this issue. Vortex has since corrected the part, FYI. But I missed a track day and had a long day riding when the bike refused to shift without pulling the rod out at every shift.
Hope this helps, PM me with any questions.
Last edited by Miweber929; 03-15-2014 at 08:25 AM.