Problem with Starter Solenoid - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Problem with Starter Solenoid

Sup peeps. Bike has been sitting for 6 months. Go to start it, dead. Jump start from car, fine for a day. Let it sit for a week while I gather maintenance supplies, oil, fuel treatment, etc... Finish oil change, go to start bike, dead. Jump start again, UH OH, heard a pop. No smoke, Bike still running. Carry on. Turn bike off. Wont start again. Hmm, must be battery. Buy new, its dead also, let it trickle charge over night. This morning, full battery, turn key on, hit ignition, Solenoid goes nuts. hmm, replace solenoid with a universal. Turn key on, smoke, LOTS OF SMOKE. Follow it to the diode underneath the lid of the Relay box behind the battery. Diode casing is melted to rest of plastic around it. Bike is now in a shop, but what would cause this?? And what does this diode do?? And how did this universal solenoid cause the problem? Oh and btw it is a 2011 CBR600RR, 20K Miles.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 03:14 PM
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Never jump your bike with a car. This is some of the stuff I have read. If nico is here he is the guy you need to talk to has a lot of knowledge

A motorcycle battery has at best 10 amps.*jumping a bike battery with a car can and has burned out the charging system on the bike. A car battery has say 600-1000 cca and will damage the battery*

For the next step, you will need a volt meter set to the 24 volt DC range. Without any accessories on and the ignition off, place the leads across the battery terminals. It should read about 12 volts. Start the engine. Place the leads across the battery terminals while the engine is running. The voltage should read between 14 to 16 volts. If it reads 12 volts or less, your charging system is not working.*If the charging system is not working, this could be a blown fuse only if you are lucky. You may also have damaged the alternator or voltage regulator when you attempted to jump start the engine. If it is not the fuse, it may be a good time to take the bike to a mechanic.*


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Well considering I had a fully charged battery, with the original starter solenoid, when I turned the key to the on position, the fuel pump kicked on and everything was like normal until I tried to start the motor. Thats when the solenoid went nuts. Then I replaced it with a universal solenoid, and when i Turned the key on, nothing happened. Fuel pump didn't kick on, the controls didn't do anything, and then the melting of the diode.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 03:25 PM
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The first time you jumped the bike, was the car running or off?

If the car was running there is a slim chance the additional current from the cars charging system may have caused problems with the bikes electrical system.

I've jumped bikes lots of time with a car* as long as the car is off, so that should not be a problem. However one day at the track someone down the paddock from me had a electrical fire on his bike while he was using his truck to "fast" charge his battery between sessions. That incident along with other stories I've heard have lead me to believe that jumping a bike from a running car may not be the best idea.



*I've never had to jump my own bikes, when not in operation I keep them on trickle chargers. I did have to bump start our Ninja 250 one time though.

Last edited by michealj; 03-15-2014 at 03:48 PM.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Yea the car was running. I don't know why I did that.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 03:30 PM
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That a dear lesson for you. A lot of great stuff on this site.


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RIP SpdyG_AK 22 June 2014
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 03:40 PM
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If thats the case, I would take D1stylz's advice and start checking the electrical system. Realize that the problems may not be limited to the charging/starting system and may go all the way to the ECU and related components. Or you may have received a faulty solenoid, or may have a faulty electrical component on the bike, or maybe a bad ground somewhere and jump starting the bike had nothing to do with the problem.
Just saying that unless you are willing to take the time, the root cause of your problem may not be real easy to isolate.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 11:35 AM
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Once it is all figured out, be sure to post back the solution to your problem, so this can be documented for future users that search for a similar problem.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-18-2014, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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So, the bike shop doesn't want to trouble shoot at all and just replace the whole harness for $1500. So I obviously will not be doing that. I'm going to buy a new diode, put it in, try the whole process again and see what happens. I'm also going to buy the right Starter Solenoid and try it. If anyone has a place where I could get maybe a refurbished wiring harness please let me know.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2014, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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Just an update. Picked up the bike yesterday, turned the key on and everything comes on normally, display wise. Lights come on, etc. Fuel pump doesn't kick on and the Neutral Light does not come on. The shop I had it at said they got it to start for a few seconds and then it would cut off. Still waiting on the diode to come in .
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-28-2014, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Well, after waiting and waiting on the diode to come in, I finally cleared out the space the diode that melted was in. Put the new diode in, and nothing. I literally know the whole charging circuit front and back now. Bought a service manual and ohm'd out every wire associated with it. After hours and hours I gave up. But then ah ha! If there is no neutral light, I could hold in the clutch and put the kickstand up and try to start that way. BOOM. It starts up like nothing is wrong. But as soon as I let go of the clutch or put the kickstand down it cuts the motor because the bike thinks it's in gear, when it's actually not. So, ordered the neutral safety switch, should be in Monday. If that does not fix it, then the wire from the neutral safety switch to a 2 pin connector is open, or a wire from the diode to the relay switch is open. Either way, goes to show me, I could have been out of a lot of money if I would have left it at the dealership, but instead decided to do it myself. I'm beyond happy!
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-28-2014, 02:58 PM
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Try bypassing the switch by connecting the 2 wires

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