05 Wont hold a charged battery, also light switch problems - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy 05 Wont hold a charged battery, also light switch problems

Well i basically treat my bike like ****. I always tell myself i will fuel stabilize it and tend the battery over the winter but never do. Last fall i bought a brand new battery because my old one went through 2 seasons of me not tending it and it just wouldn't take a charge. So i out the new one in...charged it up a bit and i rode a time or two before putting it up for winter. i believe i put just a tad bit of stabilizer in it this time around but not sure. My plugs have less than 300 miles on them since i replaced them 2 seasons ago....wires are new too. Basicly i bought a tender last week...tended the battery until it read 100% and boom it turned right over and started just fine. 4 days later i go to start it and it trys to turn over but won't and just sputters my gauge cluster. Went to put the tender on and it read 0% on my battery...WTF??

On the light switch thing i noticed 2 seasons ago that when i went to turn my switch to my high beam it wouldn't activate....so i would switch it on and off until i got a flicker and it would finally come on.....would usually have it on the high beam position and basically massage the switch side to side and then i could get it to come on. Now i don't even have my low beam.....just my running light. The bulbs look fine, they were actually replaced when i bought the bike 4 years ago.

So im not sure what to do really about the bike not holding a charge....what could be causing that? And my light switch......no clue there ether. Could it be a short somewhere in the line, or a fuse?? Im betting i will have to open it up and see whats going on inside there....ora take it to the stealership and have them bend me over to get it fixed :(
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-15-2014, 07:06 PM
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battery.... could be bad battery, reg/rec, alternator, bad connection.

light switch - spray some contact cleaner in there and switch it on and off a few times. also remove the connectors off the back of the bulbs and spray contact cleaner in them.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-21-2014, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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connection on the battery is good, what do you mean by reg/rec?? if the alternator was bad wouldn't it just be "bad" and not turn over at all?


And with the contact cleaner, do i open the cluster up or just spray it right on top of the switch and hope it works down in the spaces?
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-21-2014, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asylum11 View Post
connection on the battery is good, what do you mean by reg/rec?? if the alternator was bad wouldn't it just be "bad" and not turn over at all?


And with the contact cleaner, do i open the cluster up or just spray it right on top of the switch and hope it works down in the spaces?
The reg/rec (R/R) essentially makes sure you're sending the right type of current at the right levels to charge your battery. The alternator/stator is on the left side of the motor.

R/R's can go bad on these bikes sort of easily. They seem to cause problems more often than anything else in the charging system. If you jumped your bike from a car while the engine was running, you've probably fried the R/R. Do a search for "regulator rectifier voltage 600rr" on google and it'll find you threads from 600rr.net covering this.

And the kill switch and hi/lo beam switches stop working after a while, especially if the bike has sat outside in the weather. I suspect this issue is completely independent of your charging system problems.

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-22-2014, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asylum11 View Post
connection on the battery is good, what do you mean by reg/rec?? if the alternator was bad wouldn't it just be "bad" and not turn over at all?


And with the contact cleaner, do i open the cluster up or just spray it right on top of the switch and hope it works down in the spaces?
by reg/rec I mean reg/rec. regulator/rectifier all in one integrated unit. separate to the alternator.

if you don't know try using google or getting a manual.

why would a failed alternator stop the motor from turning? no reason at all. the alternator is turned by the engine, not the other way round.

spraywise - just spray into the switch slot. rocket science it ain't.

Quote:
Originally Posted by G Money View Post
If you jumped your bike from a car while the engine was running, you've probably fried the R/R.

this is not correct.


the reg/rec is a piece of cheap electronics that fails regularly. it transforms the AC from the alternator to DC to charge the battery.

the alternator windings can also fail, particularly if the engine has been run for prolonged periods with a failed reg/rec as the reg/rec generally fails with 2 alternator phases shorted.
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