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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-02-2006, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
 
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Unhappy help..im stumped

Hey all...well here is my first thread. I posted this question under a gas milage topic in the general discussion area, but didnt get any advice...so ill try here.

I get really BAD gas milage....about 65 mi to blinking light 75 if im lucky...i used to get about 140mi to blinking. its an 03 with about 6600mi. runs good and smooth....I always let it warm up...still has plenty of power to me (this was my first bike so i took it kind of easy to begin with) but i never really opened it up when it was new so i dont really have anything to compare. use mobile 10-30 full synthetic, most of the time 92octane but never 87. i recently changed the air filter for another stock one....plugs look ok to me (electrodes clean, light grey, with a bit of carbon/very very "dry" oil on the base) now there is some oily residue in the area under the throttle body stacks and a slight bit on the throttle valves. is that normal? im not sure of how the emission system works but i would think that with an engine that rev's that high it would be normal just because of all the oil that would be flying around in there.

It did have the tranny rebuilt at about 3000mi within warranty(all new guts) and it was a completely different animal after that was done...like a new bike.
so my point being that honda had it torn apart....when i was tearing it down to see if i could find anything obvious some of the screws for the air box wernt very tight...if the map sensor reads in the air box would that give me the bad mileage?

well im stumped...wheels roll well (i do need new front pads) chain is adjusted properly and tire pressure is per the manual...again its bone stock

help please
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-03-2006, 01:16 AM Thread Starter
 
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could it be related to this? maybe not sparking enough?

https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=41444
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-03-2006, 02:15 AM
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-03-2006, 02:20 AM
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are you riding at higher RPM's than you were before

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-03-2006, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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the carbon build up on the pipe isnt anything extraordinary seems normal to me...and i do ride it more agressively now than i did when i first got it but i still did like 120 from lauderdale to palm beach (about 35-40mi) and only used 2-3 bars...now its an most of a tank to get up there going 80. it doesnt seem to matter if i take it on city or highway...get about the same mileage. A shop told me i should do a dyno test and go from there but i dont know how accurate that is since ive heard that you often get different results at different shops.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-04-2006, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
 
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i guess you guys are stumped as well....well i guess ill just replace the battery and get a rectifier from an 04 and see if that helps....run some FI cleaner too.

how much of the bottle should i put in as they are to treat 20gal. 1/4?
also how much is the rectifier going to set me back?
thanks everyone
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-04-2006, 10:26 AM
 
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My opinion, if I were you, and it is still under warranty, ask the dealer about it(if you trust the dealer/shop). It may be able to be covered under a warranty repair. From your description, everything sounds normal. I am opposed to putting any type of foreign liquid through my bike (maybe i'm paranoid, but oh well) Wish I could help more, but when it comes to internal engine components, I leave it to the experts.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-04-2006, 11:44 AM
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Its not RPM related, you could ride around in 1st at 14,000 RPM and you would still get 65 miles to a tank, that or your engine woudl just blow.

Sounds like spark plugs, maybe "new" air filter problem so the bike is running to rich... or, it could be that the gas tank level thing is Fed up.... is there gas in there when you go to fill it up? In other words, if the gas light blinks how many gallons do you put in?
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-04-2006, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
 
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well usually i fill up before it blinks....its about 3.5 gallons with one bar(not blinking) once it blinks its about 4gal to fill it. the tank capacity is 5 gal right? and my filling habbits havent changed...i used to go 120mi to one bar no blinking and fill up 3.5 gal. before i was getting about 35mi/gal now im down to 17mi/gal.

Io-bot...i only looked at one plug since it runs fine and no missing so i thought the one would be representitive of the rest...i guess i should check the rest but the one looked good to me. are they resistor plugs? they may be bad even if the electrodes look good.

I hope i can track this down and fix it on my own cause no its not under warranty anymore....it just sucks cause my explorer gets better milage than my bike now!!!
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 12:16 AM
 
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ummmm, tranny rebuild at 3k? i'm guessin somethin else is b0rked that shouldn't be... sounds expensive / annoying...
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 12:29 AM
 
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OK Fellas here is my 2 cents. When ever you change your air filter, plug, intake system, or anything that has to do with emmissions you should disconnect your battery for 30 seconds. What this does is, it lets your ECU recognize the changes. This sounds hokey but it works. I have a water injection system in my 99 Durango, stage II chip, duals (true) and ram air. None of it worked worth a crap until I reset the ECU. Now I get 24 MPG out of my 318! I was fortunate enough that the ECU resets from disconnecting the + cable. If this doesnt work on your RR then get the shop that did the work on the trans put is it on the computer. It should be that easy. Luckily we dont have Mass airflow sensors on our RR's. Keep us posted brother
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 12:30 AM
 
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Another question...... What is your bike idling [email protected] If it idling too high it will burn the fuel too fast.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
 
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EODBowhunter.....haha...its rarely at idol but if you must know just over 1kRPMs....i agree w/ the car thing cause the computer has to learn the engine due to varing tolerances and calibrates the sensors on its own to some extent...but the bike seems like its more precision engineered and little room for error....plus i did have the battery disconnected cause i put a batt tender on it at the same time....as simple as the system is i dont think there is much for the ECU to learn....its not like its controlling a transmission or a complex emission system like a car...maybe the cali bikes but im on the other coast....does it even control the ignition? i thought they were CID and the ECU only controlled the fuel curve...i would think that if it controlled the ignition that there would be more wires to the crank case(ie CPS CSPS)maybe i overlooked something but it seems like a very simple ECU system to me....I hope dxh13 is wrong....it shifts good and the engine is smooth so unless it is possible for it to run smooth with a leaky valve or reduced compression i doubt its anything internal(last time i changed the oil there were no metal flakes)....does anyone know if the bike uses resistor plugs...if not then its definatly not the plugs...

still stumped but keep the suggestions comeing...i greatly appreciate it

Last edited by fordkrazy; 03-05-2006 at 01:01 AM.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 01:22 AM
 
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i have the same problem, but not to that degree.. around 95 miles, my gas light starts to blink.. i think it's just your gas guage is not accurate. For example, on mine 95 + 20 miles in reserve is about right.. not great mileage but acceptable.. when i had just gotten the bike, i was getting higher mileage due to me being more cautious and getting use to the bike. One thing i noticed is that when people say they get 140 miles before the blinking, they don't rev it as high (search one of my post).. as, when you fill up your tank, do you stop at the first click?? I use to.. but looks like others are filling the gas very close up to the filler neck.. In short, it maybe normal.. question you have to ask is how much harder have you been riding since you got your bike, how full do you fill the tank with gas, and finally the gas guage is not accurate. From what i hear, the gas guage is very inaccurate..
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 12:49 PM
 
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good call on the gas gauge... have u eyeballed the gas when it starts blinkin atcha? there's been tons o threads on here about the gauges being retarded....
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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yea i agree the gas gage could very well be retarded as many seem to have problems w/ it. however like i stated before my filling habbits havent changed...i fill to the top of the "filler neck" thats what you call it (the metal peice thingy) and its still 3.5-4gal depending on whether its blinking or not. so i dont think im one of the lucky ones to have a retarded gas gage...i agree i shouldnt be getting the 35-40mi/gal like i was simply because i do ride it harder than i did....but i shouldnt be getting 17...i would expect 25 at the worst.

im going to try replaceing plugs and the battery and see what that does...if it doesnt fix it then i guess ill just deal with it untill i can afford a mechanics work.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 05:09 PM
 
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do you have a gas leak?? is there a puddle of gas on the ground?
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006, 05:18 PM
 
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My gas gauge is off. She'll start blinking after I've burned 2.5 gal.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-06-2006, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
 
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no...there is no leak.....ive taken the bike apart to check for that.....it was my first thought.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 01:13 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordkrazy
no...there is no leak.....ive taken the bike apart to check for that.....it was my first thought.
did you ever find the problem?
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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no...there is nothing obvious that is wrong w/ it other than the batt. goes dead alot....im going to replace the battery and possibly the rectifier. if that doesnt work then plugs too...if that doesnt work...then screw it....im not tearing the engine down because of bad gas milage...thats for when it doesnt run anymore...haha...knock on wood
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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-23-2006, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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well i got it back together and a strange thing happened. it has been sitting for about a month now but with the batt. disconnected. when i got it all hooked back up i figured it wouldnt start cause it used to not start agian the next day after riding. well i turned the key on and everything lit up so i decided to crank it over for shits and giggles....well it started right up like it had a new battery. oh and the back light wanst hooked up either (ive read on here that it wouldnt start with the back light disconnected)

is my bike possesed or is there something that can cause the batt. to drain when its off? ive known cars to do that but usually its a bad radio or a wire has a slight short in it...but the bike obviously doesnt have a radio and the whole thing is aluminum so how could a wire ground out? but this makes me think that what ever causes the battery to drain is the same thing that is causeing the bad gas mileage
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-23-2006, 01:20 PM
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this bike doesn't really have a lot of electricity circulation with the ignition off... the clock in the gauge cluster is about it I think... but anyway, the thing that I would suggest is your clutch... it doesn't seem like you have any other problems that should be causing that big of a drop in efficiency and I'm suprised no one has mentioned it before...

what KIND of oil were you running?? Did it have moly in it??? How's the freeplay on your clutch lever?? does it feel like it's slipping at all if you really get on it? Anyway, I know you said you had the tranny rebuilt, does that include the clutch?

At any rate, I don't think the clutch should have gone out that fast, but if something got messed up during the rebuild it might be possible...

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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-23-2006, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
 
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na there is no slipping in the clutch..its nice and tight. the oil i use is 10-40 mobile one synthetic non energy conserving.
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-24-2006, 06:34 PM
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are you sure you don't have a 1000?? lol. when you had the plugs out did you measure the gap? they may look fine but the gap growth could be more then you noticed.
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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-25-2006, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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yea i replaced the plugs for the hell of it....13.50 each is pretty steep but what the hell....do you know if the plugs are resistor type? i also got some mobile one motorcycle oil...MX something i forget but it was 12/quart is it worth double the price to use that stuff? i also read the manual better and noticed that you are supposed to check the oil with it upright, i didnt realize that so i was probably running 1/2 quart too much in there before so maybe that was my problem. i also noticed that it idols at a hair over 1,500 but i cant get the damn idol adjustment screw to move. anyway...im going to hopefully finnish up painting it soon so i can get it back on the road and see if the plugs/oil/correct oil level helped with the gas mileage.
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