U won't believe me - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-20-2014, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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U won't believe me

When starting the bike it doesn't start. Acts like dead battery replaced it no go. After roll starting it runs and rides fine. When trying to turn the bike off the kill switch does nothing. With it off I turn the key to the off position the bike still runs. Then when turning the key back to the on position the bike will turn off. Also the kick stand will also the bike. I am assuming that kill switch is shorted? After I installed the battery I rode it for 20-25 mins in hopes of charging the battery with no luck. Any and all help appreciated

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-20-2014, 08:24 PM
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Holy crap. That is one heck of a problem. Have u done any recent mods right before this started happening or did it come out of nowhere?

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-20-2014, 08:31 PM
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-20-2014, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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I layed my bike down last summer but after repairing everything rode for about 2 weeks with no issues. Over the winter I installed bkmoto headlights with projects and hids. And now the issue. I had a shop resolve a no start issue with the fuel pump. They said they jumped out the ground wire on the fuel pump relay. Idk if this helps at all?

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-22-2014, 10:25 AM
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That does help. The fuel pump is switched by the ECU on the ground wire. Test your ECU to see if it's switching it's ground.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-22-2014, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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Stupid question but how do I do that?

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 07:46 AM
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Got a multimeter?
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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Sure do I have to type more stuff cause my origanal post was
TO short so just ignore all this thanks

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Well I unwired the power leads to both hids and to my gps charging system that I had made and tried to start the bike just to eliminate that from the equation but the bike fired up doin rode it around and let the stator charge the battery a little bit. However when I tried to start it again it still did the same thing. I explained all the symptoms to my grandfather (who is/was a nuclear engineer) and he said that I needed to replace the main harness due to the shop jumping stuff out not being right. (I thought about doin it when I was rebuilding the bike but funds were low so I opted not to) he said this may or may not fix my problem but either was needed to be address due to it being a possible fire hazard. I was thinking about when I routed the hid wiring harness on the left side of the bike I did zip tie it to the main harness and moved the wires inturnally to a shorted position. Does this all sound plausible?

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2014, 05:08 AM
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Ok. So, first thing to do is find where and how the harness was shorted to ground. You won't need to replace the harness, just undo what the shop did. Once you have found that and undone it then we can work on what your problem is.

Just to save a little messing about, does the fuel pump prime then turn off when you turn the bike on or does it just run continuously?
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2014, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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I'm assuming since I low sided on the left side it would be there. Further more would it be faster and easier to replace the harness? I called a few local shops and they run 450 plus tax. I found a website that sell them for 124 (yes they are used but they are supposed to be good) I would rather buy one off of someone here but the only one I found for sale was back in 2009. Here is the link to the harness I found just in case.

http://www.cyclereapers.com/servlet/...nda-CBR/Detail

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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2014, 01:15 PM
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It's probably on the left cause that's where the fuel control relay is, and you can spend 124 on the harness or about a buck and DIY it...
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2014, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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My bike was in the shop for about a month and they couldn't find it. Of course IMO they suck. And I have poured a ton of money into this bike and 124 isn't that bad IMO and I would like to have it fixed to where I wouldn't have to worry about anything stupid like if didn't crimp a connector tight enough or something along those lines

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2014, 10:20 PM
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Look mate, you can replace the whole harness but then you risk creating a whole bunch of extra problems through incorrect routing of wiring, damaged plugs etc etc. Not to mention it's a heck of a lot of work. It's cheaper, easier and less risky to repair the short the shop put in than replace the whole harness.

It should be easy to find the short, it's probably on the ground side of the fuel cut relay. That wire goes from the relay to the ECU.

Once that's sorted, test the ECU. It's probably damaged.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2014, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Ok do you think the ecu is still damaged if it runs ok when rolled started? If not how do you tell if the ecu is bad/faulty?

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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-24-2014, 11:49 PM
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Yes, I think it's not switching the fuel pump correctly. The shop probably shorted out the wire that goes to the ecu to the fuel cut relay to make the pump run all the time, hence my asking if it primes then turns off or if the fuel pump just runs continuously when you turn the bike on.

You tell by measuring the resistance of that wire both with the bike off and then with it on. If it goes from open to short to ground then it's working, if not then the ECU is damaged. But before all that you need to repair the harness and ensure it's hooked up correctly otherwise you won't have any idea of whether or not what you're measuring is accurate.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2014, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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Makes sense when ur taking about the pump cutting off are u talking about the second right before it try and start the bike as in when I turn the key on it primes then cuts off then start the bike? If so it does cut off after priming itself for X amount of time

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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2014, 12:28 AM
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From completely off, with the kill switch in the run position, turn the key to on. You should hear a whirring sound for about 1-2 seconds. This is the fuel pump priming. I expect yours will just turn on and keep going.
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2014, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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It comes on and then cuts off before I start the bike as it should. I hope I didn't miss lead you thank you very much btw for all the help I have no electrical experience with motorcycles lol I'm used to having software to get on line with stuff and troubleshooting that way

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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2014, 12:39 AM
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In that case I would expect your problem to be around the engine stop relay. If you've no real experience with electrical fault finding then it may be best to leave that one to a shop (try an auto electrician instead of your mechanic). If they have the wiring diagram they will be able to work it out in short order.
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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2014, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
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My grandfather is going to help me so I think we can find it ill post updates when the time comes thanks for all your help

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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-25-2014, 01:27 AM
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Peel the plastics off and examine the harness for any areas that have been taped. If it's been messed with it won't look factory. Also look for places it may have been pinched. Get a razor blade and start dissecting. I'm sure you'll find it
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