tough Clutch - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-17-2014, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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tough Clutch

Hi guys
I have a 07 CBR600rr that I just bought a couple weeks ago and I noticed that the clutch lever is really hard to pull in. I previously had a 09 ninja 250 and I remember that the it only took me like 2 fingers to pull in and hold the clutch lever, now with my CBR I have to use 4 fingers and after holding it in for maybe a minute my hand gets really tired. I just lubed the clutch cable today, but nothing changed. Does anyone have any suggestions. I was thinking about changing the spring on the other end of the cable, on top of the clutch box thing.

Thanks for reading,
Justin.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-17-2014, 03:14 PM
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There are other levers you can get that change the mechanics involved. Remember, it's a lever and bound by physical laws.

The reality is, it's harder to pull and you may just have to man up and get used to it. The rest of us have. Here is some info on how a lever works.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lever
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-17-2014, 07:32 PM
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U can adjust the play of the lever w the silver crank to the right of it. I can pull mine in w 2 fingers easily. I have an 07 as well
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-18-2014, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minijtp View Post
Hi guys
I have a 07 CBR600rr that I just bought a couple weeks ago and I noticed that the clutch lever is really hard to pull in. I previously had a 09 ninja 250 and I remember that the it only took me like 2 fingers to pull in and hold the clutch lever, now with my CBR I have to use 4 fingers and after holding it in for maybe a minute my hand gets really tired. I just lubed the clutch cable today, but nothing changed. Does anyone have any suggestions. I was thinking about changing the spring on the other end of the cable, on top of the clutch box thing.

Thanks for reading,
Justin.
Go to the bike shop and start pulling levers on 600's to see if it's the same as yours or not. If it is, well, gotta grow those muscles; if not then you have to fix your problem not treat the symptoms.

Assuming it's not normal then start looking at the easy stuff:
- cable routing; should be easy, gradual sweeps going all the way to the engine, no kinks, stretches or tight bends. If the bike was ever crashed, it could have been re routed.
- levers, aftermarket or OEM? Lots of shorty aftermarket ones get installed for looks with no thought it the leverage principal. OEM levers are long for a reason.
- lever pivot point. The most overlooked thing to lube and since it's right at the center of the lever even a slight bind translates to a huge difference in feel.
- cable itself, Lubing is hard to do right, and same as the pivot point even a little drag makes a huge difference.
- bars, are they aftermarket or stock? Stock bars should be fine, but aftermarket ones can cause routing issues.

So assuming you have OEM levers, routing is fine, and the bars are stock undo the cable at both ends to see how the system feels unloaded. Turn your adjuster all the way in at the lever and line up the slots so you can get the out if the lever once you have enough slack. Remove the pivot screw from the lever and rotate it to the front of the bike pulling the cable from the perch. At this point the lever, pivot bolt and nut should be in your hand and the cable free from the bar. Go down to the engine and take the cable out of the lever there, shouldn't need to use anything but your fingers to do so and make no adjustments to the cable adjuster down there.

Now check the inner cable out by sliding it back and forth, should glide easy with no hang ups or resistance. Then reinstall your lever without the cable attached:0; again should operate very smoothly with no drag. If the bolt is rusty, put some grease on it and move it until it operates smoothly. If the cable hangs up at all simply replace it, like $40 from a dealer, if the pivot on the lever is grooved and won't free up, replace it as well.

At this point reverse your steps and out everything back together. You should adjust the cable to have about 1/8" to 1/4" of free play at the lever and it should operate nice and smooth.

Hope this helps; if you don't have a service manual get one now, it's worth it and all of this will be in there.

Mike
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-18-2014, 09:02 PM
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I felt the RR had a stiffer clutch lever than my old bike as well. Got a RSC lever which helped tremendously especially in heavy traffic.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-20-2014, 12:51 AM
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After 2 smaller cc road bikes......when I got an 09 cbr600rr......

I too, found the clutch a bit heavy, when working thru traffic...so I changed my riding style a bit.

you should not be sitting with clutch pulled in for a minute.

white line yourself between traffic if possible for protection. (if you can).

then neutral, watch light, and shift into gear before light changes.

try other 600's is good(better !) advice!

Last edited by tary preisser; 05-20-2014 at 12:59 AM.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-20-2014, 01:38 AM
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Your 250 had 1/4 the horsepower of your 600. It would be unreasonable to expect the clutch to be as light
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-21-2014, 10:05 AM
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I had the same issue. Heavy clutch pull and injury in left wrist. I ditched the OEM lever and perch and installed the RSC.

Now it's a one or two finger job and no issues when in heavy traffic. The one thing you'll lose with this mod is the ability to start your bike in gear due to the RSC perch not having a switch housing that your OEM does.

There are ways to work around (by jumpering the wires) but creates a possibly dangerous scenario where you'd want to start your bike thinking it's in neutral and then it lurches forward. And when the wires are NOT jumpered, you can only start in neutral.

The other (maybe not an issue) is the engine idle increases in any gear when the wires are not jumpered but when jumpered the idle never increases even when the clutch lever is released. This applies to 2007+ CBR's.
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