Another CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) Change ; - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 09:40 AM
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Lightbulb Another CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) Change ;

Hello to all,

I have just returned from the mechanic the usual problem about the cam chain tensioner that needs to be fixed.
Here in Greece, the OEM costs 140$ with the currency change and +100$ for the payment of the mechanic.

IT'S TOO MUCH FOR MY POCKET NOW.

So i think i will buy the APE ,and install it myself.

As i have read the best thing to do, is :
1)Take off the plastics
2) Remove the screws of the old tensioner OEM
3) Put out the tensioner cam chain
4) Replace the OEM with the APE
5) Screw the bolt in,until i found resistance on the bike (with the bike turned off)
6) Power up the bike,and then +/- adjust the bolt according to the sound that you hear.

I don't think it's hard to do it alone,rather than to pay the mechanic so much money.


What do you think;
Thank you and yes we are sure that is CCT!
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 10:10 AM
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Ok ,i just want someone that knows ,to answer my questions.
post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 10:22 AM
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I replaced my CCT 2 weeks ago. Didn't go the APE route as I've read more than a few horror stories on it, but then again I've read just as many success stories . Anyways, I replaced with an OEM CCT. Other than needing really small fingers and it being bitch to access everything, it was an easy replace. IMO hiring a mechanic to do it would be a complete waste.

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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 10:29 AM
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OP. Sorry for the double post, but if I edit my above post you wont get notified. Check out these links for instructions, the second link is an excellent write up with pics.

http://www.aperaceparts.com/tech/tensioners.html

https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=135386

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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 11:00 AM
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I replaced my CCT 2 weeks ago. Didn't go the APE route as I've read more than a few horror stories on it, but then again I've read just as many success stories . Anyways, I replaced with an OEM CCT. Other than needing really small fingers and it being bitch to access everything, it was an easy replace. IMO hiring a mechanic to do it would be a complete waste.
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OP. Sorry for the double post, but if I edit my above post you wont get notified. Check out these links for instructions, the second link is an excellent write up with pics.

http://www.aperaceparts.com/tech/tensioners.html

https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=135386
What horror stories ; Please tell me.

You had bought the OEM CCT, with the Gasket; You didn't need any kind of tool ;
post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 11:10 AM
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Yea go ahead and do it yourself, it's a pretty easy job. The only difficulty is lack of space to maneuver tools around so it just takes some patience.

If you go APE it will require periodic adjustments. Don't know what kind of interval but not that often. Most likely when you start to hear it rattle again. Just don't over/under-tighten too much. Your method sounds good.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 11:19 AM
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Yea go ahead and do it yourself, it's a pretty easy job. The only difficulty is lack of space to maneuver tools around so it just takes some patience.

If you go APE it will require periodic adjustments. Don't know what kind of interval but not that often. Most likely when you start to hear it rattle again. Just don't over/under-tighten too much. Your method sounds good.
Yeah i have already tried to put my hands on it , it's super easy . But i didn't change it , i only tried to figure out how to take it out.

About the APE i know that when i hear the sound to make it tight again.
post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 11:33 AM
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I've read a few reviews much like the first post by Zippy in the following link:

http://www.motorcycleroadracingforum...tall-Fail.aspx

There are few like this on a gsxr forum as well. It seems its not always black and white as to getting the proper tension on an APE. And if you get too much tension it can lead to serious problems. But like I said, half of the other reviews say its the best thing ever.

And yes I bought the tensioner AND the gasket, they did not come together. The tensioner did however come with the tiny tool needed to retract it. I have read that you can use a smaller flat-head screwdriver in place of the tool. Got them both from hondaparts-direct.com for $74.16 shipped.

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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 11:46 AM
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I've read a few reviews much like the first post by Zippy in the following link:

http://www.motorcycleroadracingforum...tall-Fail.aspx

There are few like this on a gsxr forum as well. It seems its not always black and white as to getting the proper tension on an APE. And if you get too much tension it can lead to serious problems. But like I said, half of the other reviews say its the best thing ever.

And yes I bought the tensioner AND the gasket, they did not come together. The tensioner did however come with the tiny tool needed to retract it. I have read that you can use a smaller flat-head screwdriver in place of the tool. Got them both from hondaparts-direct.com for $74.16 shipped.
Can you tell me what is the procedure ;

As i can understand is that for a safe remove of the OEM CCT you need to put in the Neutral position the Engine ;;;; and then remove it,then you install the new one and you tight it until you find a "wall" ???
post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 11:53 AM
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"Neutral" position on the engine is TDC (top dead center). It takes like 10 seconds to do and all you need is a socket and ratchet. You just rotate the engine CLOCKWISE until the timing mark lines up with the pre-punched mark on the edge of the case. Nico hits on it on the 5th picture down in this thread: https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=223375
I'm tied up at the moment, but if no one has answered you I'll get you an answer here in a bit.

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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 12:07 PM
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"Neutral" position on the engine is TDC (top dead center). It takes like 10 seconds to do and all you need is a socket and ratchet. You just rotate the engine CLOCKWISE until the timing mark lines up with the pre-punched mark on the edge of the case. Nico hits on it on the 5th picture down in this thread: https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=223375
I'm tied up at the moment, but if no one has answered you I'll get you an answer here in a bit.
Yeah . I saw it, it's easy as i can figure it out.

I think i will buy the OEM one,rather than to buy the APE,the price is almost the same to have my mind clear.

Let me say the steps to correct me.

1) Take out the plastics
2) Take out the right side of the cover engine,i see the "T" letter i rotate it with a wrench to the position that is already been pointed.
3) I loosen the TOP bolt of the tensioner a little bit
4) I take out the 2 bolts that are left
5) Remove the tensioner
6) Install the new tensioner
7) Push the bolts until they are really tight
8) Take from the OLD tensioner the "TOP" BOLT and install it on my new tensioner.
9) I am ready to go.

Correct;
post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 01:05 PM
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Your process sounds spot on to me. I would add on step 4, you have 2 bolts to remove, remove them at the same time. In other words loosen the top a little, then the bottom, then top, then bottom and so on.

Also, the directions with the tensioner say to retract your old tensioner fully before removing it just to make the removal process easier. I didn't do this as I couldn't get my big ol fat fingers to cooperate with the tool in that tight of a space. It didn't matter though, once I had both bolts removed the tensioner came right out.

Between step 5 and 6 remember to remove the old gasket, and install the new one.

And when you install the new tensioner, the directions once again say to fully retract it before installation. This time i did retract it, and it actually was a lot easier to get it back in there. Once both bolts are tightened just pop the tool out and it'll auto-tension.

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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 01:42 PM
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Your process sounds spot on to me. I would add on step 4, you have 2 bolts to remove, remove them at the same time. In other words loosen the top a little, then the bottom, then top, then bottom and so on.

Also, the directions with the tensioner say to retract your old tensioner fully before removing it just to make the removal process easier. I didn't do this as I couldn't get my big ol fat fingers to cooperate with the tool in that tight of a space. It didn't matter though, once I had both bolts removed the tensioner came right out.

Between step 5 and 6 remember to remove the old gasket, and install the new one.

And when you install the new tensioner, the directions once again say to fully retract it before installation. This time i did retract it, and it actually was a lot easier to get it back in there. Once both bolts are tightened just pop the tool out and it'll auto-tension.
I understand quiet well the 1st paragraph.

The second one,is a little bit to hard understand what is your saying,sorry for that.

And on the third what do you mean retract;
post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 02:02 PM
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Ah sorry man, let me try to explain. So the tensioner itself is shaped kind of like a cone, the cone part is a case that doesn't move. Inside of that case there is a rod that protrudes from one end of the tensioner. This rod is what tensions the cam chain, it can be "retracted" in or extended out from the tensioner (the cone shaped part). If you had the tensioner in your hand with no load on it or any tools on it, the rod on its own will want to extend out as far as it can, which increases the overall length of the tensioner. Thus it is harder to fit into a tight space. If you "retract" this rod it makes things a lot easier as the length of the tensioner will be smaller. You retract the rod via a cross shaped cavity on the backside of the tensioner with either that small tool or a small flat head screwdriver. -That was probably clear as mud, but its the best I can do.

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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 03:27 PM
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Ah sorry man, let me try to explain. So the tensioner itself is shaped kind of like a cone, the cone part is a case that doesn't move. Inside of that case there is a rod that protrudes from one end of the tensioner. This rod is what tensions the cam chain, it can be "retracted" in or extended out from the tensioner (the cone shaped part). If you had the tensioner in your hand with no load on it or any tools on it, the rod on its own will want to extend out as far as it can, which increases the overall length of the tensioner. Thus it is harder to fit into a tight space. If you "retract" this rod it makes things a lot easier as the length of the tensioner will be smaller. You retract the rod via a cross shaped cavity on the backside of the tensioner with either that small tool or a small flat head screwdriver. -That was probably clear as mud, but its the best I can do.
Yeah i understand now.

What do i need to do to retract the rod ; Do i need to rotate clockwise until the end,end see full length;
post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 08:23 AM
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When you buy the CCT it should come with the tool that keeps it in place in the retracted position. Leave it in there until it's installed in the bike.

If it does somehow extend then you use a flat blade to wind it back in, while pushing it back into the housing. Hold it in the retracted position while you put that tool back in.

All the info is in my CCT thread, it's really an easy thing to do. And it's not really tight. If you go really tight you may strip the threads. It just has to be tight enough not to fall out or loosen off.
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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 03:31 PM
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When you buy the CCT it should come with the tool that keeps it in place in the retracted position. Leave it in there until it's installed in the bike.

If it does somehow extend then you use a flat blade to wind it back in, while pushing it back into the housing. Hold it in the retracted position while you put that tool back in.

All the info is in my CCT thread, it's really an easy thing to do. And it's not really tight. If you go really tight you may strip the threads. It just has to be tight enough not to fall out or loosen off.
Do you know any kind of site that i can order the OEM with shipping to Greece;

I want to change it as fast as i can .

Because even though that the APE is, much cheaper ,it won't be the same.

Another question.

When i put the bike to the "T" mark , on the right side of the engine,and afterwards,i remove the OLD OEM ; And then i install the new one,and take out the "tool" that holds it inside and then its all done;

answer this questions please.

And one last thing, is there by any means inside the "engine" the chain of the tensioner to be loose;
post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 07:13 PM
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Good call on the oem one. I put the ape in my 03 f4i and I've had it in for about 8k miles but I always worry about needing to adjust it. Never adjusted it yet because I know its just right but I always worry about it. Wish I would have got the oem one for peace of mind. Just take your time and it should go pretty easy if you get the oem because it will self adjust to the proper tension rather than guessing. I was nervous when I put ape cct in because I worried about tearing my motor up because of too much tension.
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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 10:01 PM
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Do you know any kind of site that i can order the OEM with shipping to Greece;

I want to change it as fast as i can .

Because even though that the APE is, much cheaper ,it won't be the same.

Another question.

When i put the bike to the "T" mark , on the right side of the engine,and afterwards,i remove the OLD OEM ; And then i install the new one,and take out the "tool" that holds it inside and then its all done;

answer this questions please.

And one last thing, is there by any means inside the "engine" the chain of the tensioner to be loose;
Don't know anything about getting parts in Greece. I'm sure Honda East Toledo will be able to help you out though. If they don't send parts overseas they should be able to point you in the right direction.

And sorry, I don't quite understand what the questions are? If the first one is just about the order to do things in then pretty much yes.
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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 05:58 AM
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Don't know anything about getting parts in Greece. I'm sure Honda East Toledo will be able to help you out though. If they don't send parts overseas they should be able to point you in the right direction.

And sorry, I don't quite understand what the questions are? If the first one is just about the order to do things in then pretty much yes.
ΟK let me try to explain it.

1) I open the right cover and wrench my "disk" to the position of the "T" Mark to have it on Neutral.

2) Then i take out the 2 screws,of the tensioner,and afterwards i release the top bolt of the tensioner or it doesnt matter;

3) When i will put the new one, the new one will still have inside "his" top bolt, the thing that i holding the tensioner to expand, i put the 2 screws first and then i tight up ,and take out the "tool" that is holding the tensioner;
post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-24-2014, 09:42 PM
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It's not a disc, it's the crankshaft. What you're doing is turning the motor over to top dead centre.

Loosen the bolt on the top of the tensioner first, the only reason to do it now is cause it's a whole heap easier to do while the tensioner is still on the engine. Then pull out the two bolts that hold the tensioner on, undo them a small amount at a time so that the tensioner comes out straight.

Then yes, put the new one in and then remove the holding tool. You then put that bolt you loosened on the old tensioner into the new one.

Everything you need to do is here, with pictures: https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=223375
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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 08:08 AM
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It's not a disc, it's the crankshaft. What you're doing is turning the motor over to top dead centre.

Loosen the bolt on the top of the tensioner first, the only reason to do it now is cause it's a whole heap easier to do while the tensioner is still on the engine. Then pull out the two bolts that hold the tensioner on, undo them a small amount at a time so that the tensioner comes out straight.

Then yes, put the new one in and then remove the holding tool. You then put that bolt you loosened on the old tensioner into the new one.

Everything you need to do is here, with pictures: https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=223375

Yeah i didn't know the english word that's why i wrote it that way about the "cover".

Great i will order the new OEM parts and try to do it myself :D
Thank you.
post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2014, 04:55 AM
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I thought that may have been the case. I generally find it quite surprising how good peoples english is when it's their second language... and am also appalled at times at how poor others' english is when it's their native language.

It really is an easy job to do, just follow that how to and you can't go wrong.
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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-25-2014, 10:55 AM
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I am bringing this up because i have just got all my parts.

Today i started to make the procedure as said.But;

I can't get my hands on the tensioner,not even a tool "can work the way through"...

Do i have to remove the fuel tank; If yes what do i need;
post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-25-2014, 03:20 PM
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On the manual says that i need a special tool to take it out.

Report this image


But i dont have it right now.

Now i have.
The new tensioner that is already placed with the special tool.
(I know how to install )

I dont know how to unistall it.

on the manual says that i need to take of the top bolt,then put inside the special tool rotate it clockwise and then press it to stop ,and then remove the other 2 bolts and take it out.


How can i do it tomorrow morning without this tool;
post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-26-2014, 07:52 AM
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You don't need to retract it to remove it. Just remove the top bolt and then undo the other two bolts evenly and it will come out.

Just use a little patience and it will come out.
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-26-2014, 02:13 PM
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You don't need to retract it to remove it. Just remove the top bolt and then undo the other two bolts evenly and it will come out.

Just use a little patience and it will come out.
Today my "1st" time was great :D

I have changed it. Thank you all and sorry for the questions.

I took the top bolt off, i then removed the other 2 bolts each one at the time, 1 turn the upper 1 turn the lower 1 turn the upper 1 turn the lower and so on.

I took it off, i changed the gasket installed the new OEM again with the same settings of torque,and then pop-ed out the "special tool" i heard that it was "extended" and i started the motor...

NO MORE RATTLEEEEEEE!!!!!

But now i hear something like rattle like,that something is left,what do you think;
post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-27-2014, 06:42 AM
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If you were riding at the time it was probably the chain...

Other than that, how old is your oil? And there will always be some ticking, the injectors are supposed to make noise... bike won't run if they aren't ticking away.
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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-27-2014, 07:09 AM
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If you were riding at the time it was probably the chain...

Other than that, how old is your oil? And there will always be some ticking, the injectors are supposed to make noise... bike won't run if they aren't ticking away.

Υeah,today i asked my mechanic and he didn't hear anything he told me about a placebo effect that i might be anxious and thinking of noises.

Chain is almost 10.000 km.
Oil Filter - Oil = Not even 1000km (Repsol 10w40 due to that hear is already 38 celsius)
post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-27-2014, 07:41 AM
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Don't worry about it then.
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