07 Knocking - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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07 Knocking

Bought an 07 recently. It ran fine at test ride for a couple minutes. I just took it out to ride it for the first time. It ran fine for 5 to 10 minutes. Then I noticed a knocking noise start. Not much at first, then it got worse over the next minute or so until I had to pull over. The bike idles fine. The knocking noise gets faster when I rev the motor. Pulled the spark plugs, they all look fine and are tightened properly.

Previous owner had recently changed the oil, I found the oil level to be high. Drained it to the proper level. The PO also installed a Bazzaz unit, and hadn't ridden it much since he installed it.

Any ideas?


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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Anybody have any ideas? My gut feeling is that the oil pump went bad and ran the top end without oil, sticking a valve. Now the piston(s) have been beating the hell out of the valve(s).

Haven't had a chance to check the oil pump yet though.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 08:08 PM
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I have an 07 as well.. How many miles do you have on it ? Hopefully someone will answer about what the problem could be so I can watch out for it
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 10:10 AM
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Octane of gas your running? Mileage of bike? Were the plugs the correct ones?
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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It has 93 octane in it. The previous owner ran the bike on multiple track days with the same plugs with no problems. I can't remember off the top of my head how many miles it has. I can look here in a couple hours, but I want to say it's around 15,000.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 11:28 AM
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Hm..i'm new to the CBR platform but possible knocking/whir sounds sometimes lead to cam chain tensioners. Maybe someone with more knowledge will step in.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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Here's a link to a video of the bike running. It's short, but you can hear the knocking/ticking over the noise of the motor pretty good:

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 12:49 PM
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I am by no means a qualified mechanic, but the tensioner and chain are relatively inexpensive parts if you want to shotgun the issue. If you are even somewhat mechanically inclined, it shouldn't be too hard of a procedure to replace the tensioner.

http://www.ronayers.com/CAM-CHAIN-TE...--C235937.aspx
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-25-2014, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you, that's an option I'll keep in mind.

I'm going to test that oil pump tonight and report back.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Just by doing a finger test on the oil pump it seems to be working fine. I placed my finger over the hole where the oil pressure switch normally is. At idle it wanted to push my finger off but I was able to keep it plugged, I believe that's normal for idle.

I took the right side engine cover off. Everything looked fine, only alarming thing was how much slack there was in the oil pump drive chain. I did some searching though and apparently that's normal.

The timing chain is taught. I put a ratchet on the crank and turned the motor over several times. When I do that, I don't hear any tapping noise at all. As soon as the motor is fired up and under combustion you hear the knocking.

Any ideas? I guess my next plan is to take the valve cover off and inspect that.
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 10:42 AM
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cct,s have been known to need replacing at about 10k-15k,i think if you buy an oem cct now it is somewhat better than the original 07'cct,s

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ash2020 View Post
cct,s have been known to need replacing at about 10k-15k,i think if you buy an oem cct now it is somewhat better than the original 07'cct,s
Yeah I've been reading about the CCT's. It seems to me though that if the CCT was bad, the chain wouldn't be taught. That might be wrong though. Anyone know?
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Also, if I leave the kill switch on so no gas is being sprayed, then crank the motor with the start button there is no knocking. Granted the motor is not turning anywhere near the 1200 rpm's it would be idling at or whatever it is.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 02:49 PM
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That is not the sound that the CCT makes.

unfortunately I have no additional help.

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-29-2014, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graffitiRR08 View Post
I am by no means a qualified mechanic, but the tensioner and chain are relatively inexpensive parts if you want to shotgun the issue.
There are so many things wrong with that post. Let's leave the whole answering thing to people that know what they're doing.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-29-2014, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheX View Post
There are so many things wrong with that post. Let's leave the whole answering thing to people that know what they're doing.
He's contributed just as much as you have to this thread.

I appreciate any help I can get here, even if it's just a bump to the top of this forum so more people with experience see it.

I removed the Bazzaz unit from the equation last night. I didn't think that was the issue, but it didn't make sense to not try it before I start digging into the valves. It didn't help at all so I started to dig in to taking the air box off. Hopefully I'll get through that tonight and I can get the valve cover off to have a look inside.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-01-2014, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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I've now taken the cylinder head off and found that the pistons have NOT been impacting the valves. They all look great. The tops of the pistons look good. I haven't rotated the motor yet to examine the other two cylinder walls that I can't currently see.

I'm starting to think it's something like a spun main bearing or something. Seems like it was running too good for that to happen though... I don't know.

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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-04-2014, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Determined that it was indeed a spun rod bearing. Instead of splitting the case, and replacing the crank, rod, and bearing, I'm just going to buy a new motor. Don't know the true root cause of the problem, so I'm just going to move on.

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