03 cbr600rr cranks but won't start - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-01-2014, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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03 cbr600rr cranks but won't start

Okay so I've looked on here as much as I can and found variations of the problem I'm having but tried all I can with no luck so I'm hoping for more input. I have an 03 cbr600rr that won't fire up, at first diodes were shot and had a bad fuel pump so I replaced both. Now everything turns on like it should and fuel pump primes but never fires up when cranking. I've been able to start it momentarily after spraying ether into the air ducts. I've narrowed it down to no fuel being sprayed to start it and when I check the wires going to the injectors both are hot. The ecu is functional and has a good ground. Any advice?
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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-04-2014, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Well I guess I'll go into a lot more detail seeing as no responses. I got the bike back in the winter, according to the previous owner it fell over in a trailer and took all the front fairings but it supposedly still ran after and one day it just stopped working. He thought it was the fuel pump so I checked it and replaced that, replaced the ignition due to it being shot, replaced the engine cut off and fuel pump relay, and i replaced the ecu and fuel injectors. So I'm at the point where I'm chasing down wires with no luck to figure out why it's not getting fuel. Again any input would be greatly appreciated.
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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-05-2014, 11:22 PM
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have you checked your tip-over sensor, although I believe it shuts down fuel pump at extreme angles, You can do ohms/continuity test on it. you could check for this along with correct mounting direction and that electrical connections clean. Are you sure you are getting fire at the plugs as well? IF so , definetly sounds to be fuel related, as though injectors are still not functioning with the supplied voltage, Oh just thought of something else, Check for fuel cut relay. Don't have my manual with me now but it is possible that one of your relays is a fuel cut. I will check my manual tomorrow and send message back if I find one in the wiring schematic. good luck figuring it out.
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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 01:04 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply, the bas is bypassed to rule it out. When I checked (after replacing the spark plugs a while back) I checked and they were. I'll recheck them this weekend since I'm off and actually have free time. The injectors work when I manually test them outside of the bike so I'm thinking it's gotta be wiring to/from or around them. As far as the relays I've replaced all three on the side (engine cut off, fan, and fuel pump) but I'll check them again with a multimeter if I can track it down again. Thanks for the info, this bike has been a nightmare tracking all the things down that were wrong with it to get it where it is now and just let me know if you find out anything about the relay
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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 01:46 PM
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How about fuel line going from tank to injectors? Clean and Clear?, Not Pinched? And fuel pump delivering up to the injectors? I know that your suspicion is electrical but just making sure you haven't overlooked mechanical as well.
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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah they are clear and any time I disconnect the fuel lines from the rails gas shoots outta it from being pressurized. I'm just stumped at this point. I'm about to go tinker with it now to see if I can figure out anything new
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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 07:24 PM
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Try this process hold the throttle wide open while hitting the starter button wide open throttle will stop the spark plugs from being flooded with fuel as long as your fuel pump Is priming that process should work it will take a few trials to get the engine running so be patient once it starts hold the throttle for a few minutes till you feel the bike would Idle on its own otherwise it might die again which will make it even tougher to start



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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Okay so I've hit the starter while wot then let it cool down. Did that til the battery drained and so far no new sign. I have it on a charger and will try again in the morning. Do you know how long it normally takes with this method?
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post #9 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 11:19 PM
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Okay so I've hit the starter while wot then let it cool down. Did that til the battery drained and so far no new sign. I have it on a charger and will try again in the morning. Do you know how long it normally takes with this method?
I can no tell you an exact estimate of how long it will take till the bike starts but it's normal for the battery to go totally dead trying such process disconnect the headlights fuse beforehand that will conserve some of the battery juice as well attempt to start it 4 times in a row then turn the ignition off wait a few minutes then try again



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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so I tried the process again with no luck still. When I hit the starter button it cranks over fast but still doesn't catch. I have the battery back on the charger and I'll give it another try tonight if it's ready. Im starting to wonder if it's the starter that is my issue
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post #11 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 05:45 PM
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Are you getting any codes from the FI indicator light(blinks)?
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post #12 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Nope the FI comes on and just stays solid. I've been working on this bike for so long and I'm ready to get it fired up and ride it so thanks for all the help so far
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post #13 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 10:00 PM
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As long as the battery is fully charged and the fuel pump primes when you turn the key on then lord behold it will start



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post #14 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Haha alright man I'll keep at it and let you guys know if it does. Thanks for all the help
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post #15 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 10:43 PM
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Haha alright man I'll keep at it and let you guys know if it does. Thanks for all the help
If yon get frustrated cause it might happen walk away & take a break then try it again



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post #16 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 11:54 PM
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Ok, im sorry I assumed you had probally checked for codes. There will be a test plug under your seat with 2 wires that will be capped off, maybe tucked between subframe and tail. Take the cap off and jump the two wires, one to the other using a jumper wire, This done with key off. After jumping, turn key on and watch FI light for blinks count the blinks there are long blinks and/or short blinks, and send back and I will tell you what code is and hopefully we can figure out if you have a electrical component failure.
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post #17 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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Cbrguy1983, the only connector I can find right now is a red plug that has four pins. Is that the same thing you are talking about or am I just overlooking it?
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post #18 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 04:30 PM
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Cbrguy1983, the only connector I can find right now is a red plug that has four pins. Is that the same thing you are talking about or am I just overlooking it?
That should be the one



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post #19 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Oh yea! Which pins do I need to bridge
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post #20 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so I jumped the test plug and pulled up 10 different codes, I reset it all and so far they haven't returned. Bike still won't start at the moment but at least I'm making some progress. The codes were 11 - speed sensor circuit malfunction, 19- ignition pulse generator malfunction, 12 13 14 15-all primary injectors malfunction or open circuit, 16 17 48 49- all secondary injectors malfunction or open circuit
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post #21 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 07:02 PM
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Ok so I jumped the test plug and pulled up 10 different codes, I reset it all and so far they haven't returned. Bike still won't start at the moment but at least I'm making some progress. The codes were 11 - speed sensor circuit malfunction, 19- ignition pulse generator malfunction, 12 13 14 15-all primary injectors malfunction or open circuit, 16 17 48 49- all secondary injectors malfunction or open circuit
Moving in the right direction does your fuel pump prime now ?



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post #22 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Yep still primes up like before and nothing has changed except that the FI light is not showing up on the gauge. Is it supposed to be on or off there?
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post #23 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 07:08 PM
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The FI light stays on until you attempt to start the bike then it should disappear .



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post #24 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 07:11 PM
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Try the roll on full throttle process hopefully you will get it running



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post #25 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Alright tried it and no luck yet. The battery is back on the charger and I'll retry tomorrow. The FI light goes off when the fuel pump relay clicks then came back on a couple times while cranking then would go back off. I'll keep at it and hopefully have some good news soon
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post #26 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 08:42 PM
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Alright for now focus on the injector codes, the code 19 your pulse generator is part of ignition circuit and you said you thought your bike to be firing, so your pulse generator/exciter coil should NOT affect any fuel issues. This coil only tells the bike when to fire when your crankshaft is turning. I am about to go get my manual and take a look at how the speed sensor ties into your injectors. If the speed sensor is in series with your injectors, you may have possibly found your problem.
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post #27 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 09:25 PM
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just to clarify, how many blinks do you get when you first turn the key on with the jumper in place?
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post #28 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Ok awesome. The first blink is one long one short (11) then it goes 19, 12, 13,14,15, 16, 17, 48,49 then cycles back. I thought it was supposed to go from smallest to largest so I'm not sure how 19 got thrown into the mix where it did
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post #29 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-10-2014, 12:43 AM
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ok well manual says with VS sensor, code 11 engine should still operate normally. Code 19,12,13'12'15'16'17'48'49 states in manual "engine won't start. I had said earlier that the pulser should not affect this circuit, but it does run straight into ECM So I would start with 19. CKP/pulser, the down side is part CKP does not have a continuity check and it is supposed to have peak voltage test done. This test requires peak voltage adapter to multimeter, which most likely you may not have and would be performed with engine turning over. So this is not a test where you could just take it off and go have tested. You may want to consider getting a known good one, to save trouble. Looks like pulser is about 30 bucks on bikebandit.com I would also make sure all connections are good Especially At ECM; Unplug and clean gang plug with contact cleaner. Good Luck, at least you are starting to possibly get it narrowed down.
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post #30 of 47 (permalink) Old 09-10-2014, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Alright awesome thanks for the info. I'll get some contact cleaner and go over all the connections just to be sure and I'll probably order that part from bike bandit just to rule it out. When I get home tonight I'll see if any more codes pull up on the bike since I cleared them all yesterday. Thanks for all of your guys help so far
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