AMA Supersport Racer
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Annapolis Area
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I think I found the same colored schematic you're using. Looking at it, and your pics, both the fuel cut and engine stop relays are bypassed. The fuel cut relay (which controls your pump) gets its signal from the ECU and you said the bike runs when it's wired the "custom" way so we can rule out the ECU, for now. The engine stop relay however, gets its signal from two sources and also provides ground for the fuel cut relay so the fuel cut relay won't do what it's supposed to if the engine stop relay isn't doing its job. The engine stop relay will only do it's job when the BAS, connected to one of the red/white wires, is sending it the right signal (not sideways), and the kill switch, connected to the solid black wire, is in RUN. So right off the bat I can think of three things that could be going wrong with your bike that makes it not run when it's wired to factory spec: Bad kill switch, bad BAS, or the engine stop relay itself is boned.
Now, it looks like wiring isn't at all intimidating to you so as a first step I suggest ruling out the easiest thing after you've wired everything to factory spec - the kill switch. If you short the black and the black/white wires coming out of the kill switch that'll do the same thing as having that switch in RUN. Next, if that doesn't solve the issue, try bypassing the BAS. I'm not exactly familiar with the guts of the BAS so I can't tell you whether to short or open wires out of there, or which for that matter. After that, check whether the engine stop relay is actually working as it should - take it off the bike and apply 12v to the input terminals and you should hear a click. Or you can use a multimeter in the continuity mode to probe the outputs of the relay to see if they close and open when power is supplied or lost. I'm willing to bet it's something of the three.
Last edited by Lyoha; 10-07-2014 at 12:24 PM.