Interesting problem 2010 600rr NEED HELP! - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Question Interesting problem 2010 600rr NEED HELP!

Hey guys recently ive had a problem with my 600RR, I bought it rode it for about 500 miles from the point of sale to home, rode it in town for about 30 miles, after which bike started cutting off. First time it cut off I push started it and made it home, second time it was jerking between what seemed like closed throttle and open throttle, next it wouldn't start at all like a dead battery but the next day it started fine I rode it to work, when I left work it cut off leaving the parking lot after which id would start for a couple of seconds and die. I suspected rectifier which I changed, next I went to the dealer which told me it was the ecu, I also replaced the ecu and nothing, it wont even start now. I just checked today and it has no spark, what could cause this? Ive been working on my own bikes for over 10 years and im stomped by this issue. Also could you guys show me the links to the kickstand bypass and BAS bypass for the 2010 I can only seem to find them for the earlier models.

Thank you in advance!
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 11:15 AM
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Main issues to look at Fuel pump ( does it prime when you turn the key on or not )
If not it can be BAS sensor , Fuel pump relay , Kill switch , blow fuse

The battery (condition ) get it load tested to see if it can hold a charge or not weak battery can cause all kinds of issues just because the lights work does not mean its a healthy battery



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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Fuel pump primes, I believe im getting fuel down the cylinders, I know that I am not getting spark because I took one coil out and put a spark plug in it with no spark coming out of it when grounded.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 11:37 AM
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Ok so fuel is ok how is the battery next would be the coils i honestly never heard of coils going bad but its possible



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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Battery was low from sitting but ill try again tonight with fresh battery. I also have never heard of the coils going bad, not suddenly and for sure not all together.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 11:48 AM
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Get the battery fully charged then load test it hopefully it will pass the test when attempting to start the bike take the head lights fuse to avoid giving away battery juce & start the bike
Do not roll on and off the throttle as that will foul the plugs hold the throttle wide open yes wide open that will not foul the plugs & usually that process works with hard to start bikes



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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Ill that that, what happens if that dosent work? Because at this point I believe that I have attempted that before. when I had a battery with full charge.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 11:57 AM
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I would suggest testing the coils but i am not sure how that process works do you have a shop manual you will need one to get detailed info



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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 12:01 PM
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Check your pm



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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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Got it thank you
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by radupanait View Post
Got it thank you
My pleasure i would also suggest go over all the connections you did befioe while replacing th ECU you migh have missed smething here or there



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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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The bas or kickstand wouldnt be at fault since my fuel pump is still priming correct?
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by radupanait View Post
The bas or kickstand wouldnt be at fault since my fuel pump is still priming correct?
That is correct you know its not a fuel issue , battery issue ( possible ) elecrtical issue ( possible) as well the battery is easy to detect charge it them load test it if it passes then its electrical some where probably in your connections that is why the shop maunal is a must have tool in your case as there is too much to go over just take one thing at a time i got faith you will find out the culprit and get the bike started



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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Could it be the crank position sensor?
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 02:52 PM
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Could it be the crank position sensor?
Very possible there was a couple of trouble shooting threads that were fixed due connection issues of cranck position sesnor wibbly dealt with that before from what i remember pm him he got the knowledge to help you out and won't mind sharing it link to his profile https://www.600rr.net/vb/member.php?u=101473



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Last edited by Moeman; 11-18-2014 at 02:56 PM.
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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I looked through Wibbly's started threads but found nothing about bike problems. Another question while im at work and thoughts of fixing my bike are rushing through my mind, could it be flooded, what would be the start up procedure for that, since ive started it so many times with no success it could be a possibility.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 03:14 PM
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Wibbly did not post a trouble shooting thread on the contrary he shared his valuable knowledge in a bunch of them & that is where i got the info i mentioned . As far as flooded spark plugs you can simply remove them from the bike clean them then reinstall them i have also had luck just letting the bike sit for a few hours before attempting the restarting process for some odd reason the RR is not a bike that likes to sit unused for a while



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Last edited by Moeman; 11-18-2014 at 03:17 PM.
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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I checked all the wires, connections fuses, new battery. I dont have a volt meter but Im still not getting spark.
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Is there any way to check the CPS? If so what should I look for?
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-20-2014, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys I really need some more feedback on this problem, I need this bike moving soon I need to ship it :)
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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-22-2014, 07:57 AM
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Do you have the engine stop switch on the handlebars on? Check it works properly.
Buy a cheap multimeter. check you have some initial voltage at the spark plugs, should be battery voltage between multicolor wire and bike frame/ground. When you crank, the voltage should jump to 100+V. Voltage should not drop below 12V.
The workshop manual has troubleshooting steps from there, most say check the ECM connector if you have no initial voltage.
If you have ECM issues, you should check for error codes by shorting the connector under the seat and noting how many flashes the MIL light on the dash says.

The workshop manual has all the troubleshooting you need, the 2007 one is all you need.
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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-22-2014, 08:11 AM
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Let's start with some basic info so we know what's going on before getting too deep. Is the bike previously wrecked, crashed or incomplete? And wiring or electrical mods? Did anything to it (no matter how insignificant) at or around the time it acted up? Is the anything different than a showroom stock 10 RR we need to know?

Service manual, have one? Have you checked the electrical system per the tests in it? Had your battery load tested?

Why did you replace the rectifier? None of the symptoms really point to that so I'm curious to why you chose that route, wondering if there is something we are missing. And absolutely no reason to bypass any of the safety sensors unless you are tracking the bike or are looking to add another unknown to this issue.

Was the ECU new or used? Was it for a 2010 600RR? Do you get spark with the old one hooked up?

Also, why are you thinking crank sensor, just a guess or could it be damaged?

Give us some more info and we'll try to help.

Mike
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