07 600RR - Engine shut off twice on track - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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07 600RR - Engine shut off twice on track

I have a 2007 600RR with about 10k miles, last 3k have probably been track only. Only engine related mods are Leo slip on, air filter and Bazzaz with slip on map.

The battery recently died so I replaced that with a WPS Li, works fine and is paperclip light. About a year or so ago, I was on the freeway after an oil change and lost power completely. Unbeknownst to me, the engine had shut off and I had maintained 10-20% throttle. I noticed the sound change, twisted for more throttle and noticed it was dead. I was able to exit, pull in the clutch and the RPMs went to 0.

The same exact thing happened twice on the racetrack this weekend. Luckily, the first time I had exited a turn and was on the straight and the second was during a warm up lap.

Now, I googled the issue at the track as I was terified of it happening mid corner and me taking someone else out, let alone myself. I found a thread that mentioned a wire short burning through some tape in the little yellow box on the left side. I'm not sure what exactly this is, anyone else heard of this?

While checking for the little yellow box, I removed the tail section and noticed an old tire pressure keychain gauge had fallen between the battery area and the rear storage. The metal ring was sitting against some wires, none of which were exposed though. I removed this (obviously) and did not have any more issues the rest of the day, although the bike felt VERY sluggish at times. Any ideas? Feels like it might be a possible wire short to me.

I also removed the lower left fairing the day before. I read another thread that mentioned something about the gas breather hose being pinched. I checked and noticed the hose was slightly bent, but not completely pinched. Can this also be the culprit? I was on a full tank when this happened on track.

Last edited by El Primo Z; 12-22-2014 at 04:32 PM.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 05:03 PM
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The 'yellow box' is a common grounding point on prior generation 600RRs, not 2007 and above, so it won't be that (but could still be a bad ground somewhere.)

A pinched tube could lead to weirdness, but I don't think it could shut off the bike. Question: is the engine shutting off, but all the electronics staying on? Can you re-light the bike immediately after this happens?
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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The 'yellow box' is a common grounding point on prior generation 600RRs, not 2007 and above, so it won't be that (but could still be a bad ground somewhere.)

A pinched tube could lead to weirdness, but I don't think it could shut off the bike. Question: is the engine shutting off, but all the electronics staying on? Can you re-light the bike immediately after this happens?
I put the bike in neutral the second time, left the switch on 'run' and started to crank the engine. It would sputter and die the first 3-4 times. I let it sit for about 10-15 seconds, tried her again probably the 5th time at this point and she fired up but ran terrible. Choppy idle for the first few seconds, gave it a few revs and it cleaned up. This happened midway through the course. As I made my way back to the pits, the bike hesitated a great deal. Seemed almost to run on 3 cylinders and want to die.

Im not getting any FI codes. I almost felt like the engine was flooded with excess gas from me keeping the throttle open. Essentially, the fuel pump and injectors still sending fuel, but the engine not burning it due to lack of spark. That might explain the sputtering and the rough idle, right?

Last edited by El Primo Z; 12-22-2014 at 05:42 PM.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 05:56 PM
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Kind of does. I had a condition where my battery was not getting charged; when I was getting low on voltage, the gauges would cut out but the engine would keep going, then would start missing. Letting the bike sit for little bit let the battery recover, but it would just happen again. That doesn't sound like what you're experiencing, however it would be helpful for troubleshooting purposes to get a multimeter and measure voltage at the battery with the bike off, when you're pressing the start button, when the bike is idling, and when you rev the bike around 5k rpms. There are value ranges the battery should be at during all these, if all the measured values are good we can at least rule out the battery
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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Kind of does. I had a condition where my battery was not getting charged; when I was getting low on voltage, the gauges would cut out but the engine would keep going, then would start missing. Letting the bike sit for little bit let the battery recover, but it would just happen again. That doesn't sound like what you're experiencing, however it would be helpful for troubleshooting purposes to get a multimeter and measure voltage at the battery with the bike off, when you're pressing the start button, when the bike is idling, and when you rev the bike around 5k rpms. There are value ranges the battery should be at during all these, if all the measured values are good we can at least rule out the battery
Checking the bike out with a voltmeter is a good thought for sure. I don't think its the battery, only because it is brand new and the bike did the same with the original battery as well. No harm in trying though, i will check it out. While i'm at it, i will check relays as well.

Any further thoughts on the gas vent hose? I'm thinking of putting a clip on it to purposely kink the hose and see how the bike reacts.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 07:47 PM
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There is a condition that can cause fuel in the tank to get 'vacuum' stuck and starve the fuel injectors. So yeah, it would also be a good idea to get down to the tank and pull it up, so you can see the underside and all the hose routing and condition. It's easy for hoses to pop off due to age and vibration, or get squished when you put the tank back down into position.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2014, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FightingChance View Post
There is a condition that can cause fuel in the tank to get 'vacuum' stuck and starve the fuel injectors. So yeah, it would also be a good idea to get down to the tank and pull it up, so you can see the underside and all the hose routing and condition. It's easy for hoses to pop off due to age and vibration, or get squished when you put the tank back down into position.
Out of curiosity it isn't possible for hoses just to get pinched for no reason right? I mean lets say you install a fuel controller and then run the bike for a number of times all without issue, and you know when you put everything back together nothing was pinched; no hose would just suddenly become pinched from just riding the bike....?

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2014, 02:42 AM
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If you haven't physically moved anything around in that area, I highly doubt a hose would get snagged or detached.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2014, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Primo Z View Post
Checking the bike out with a voltmeter is a good thought for sure. I don't think its the battery, only because it is brand new and the bike did the same with the original battery as well. No harm in trying though, i will check it out. While i'm at it, i will check relays as well.

Any further thoughts on the gas vent hose? I'm thinking of putting a clip on it to purposely kink the hose and see how the bike reacts.
I wouldn't purposely kink your vent hose and cause a vacuum. I've seen guys who have had their gas tanks collapse from their vent hoses being pinched. I'm not saying it would definitely happen to you but I wouldn't risk it.




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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2014, 11:21 AM
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The behavior you describe is almost certainly a loose ground. Check the bundle that tags the frame on the left side of the bike. Also check your battery terminals if you haven't already.

A pinched line wouldnt cause this. And if you did have a pinched line you'd know right away when you opened the fuel cap.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2014, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FightingChance View Post
If you haven't physically moved anything around in that area, I highly doubt a hose would get snagged or detached.
Exactly my point, seems electrical as wibbly suggested. My bike died suddenly coming to a stoplight, it only did it once but my battery was in a bad condition so I had it replaced and the issue never reoccurred.

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2014, 11:44 PM
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Might sound like a stupid question but you didn't happen to suck anything into the intake. With the intake being in the front it would be a long shot but I've heard of people sucking their registration papers into the intake when it is situated under the seat. It starves the engine and then falls out of the way just to do it again later.

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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-23-2014, 11:50 PM
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kill switch is/can be a problem...?

Search OTF for this issue.

unless you have had tank up then hoses s/b OK?
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-24-2014, 12:00 PM
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The only other thing I can think of is the tip sensor.

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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-24-2014, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Guys all good suggestions, thanks. The only reason I mentioned the gas hose is because I noticed the hose near the kick stand was bent inside the lower fairing.

Tip sensor and kill switch are good points to check as well. Ground is probably the best guess so far, I will check on this. Can you be more specific where on the left side I should check? Part of me thinks it might have been the stupid key chain tire pressure gadget that had slid down onto the wires. But that again would only cause problems if wires were expires, right?
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-24-2014, 06:19 PM
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yeah you're not going to get a short from a keychain unless something were seriously wrong.


remove the left side plastic and there will be a bundle of grounds that tags the frame there.


also check the main ground from the chassis to the battery. it's attached to the engine near the starter and connects to the battery negative.

it wouldn't hurt to bypass the BAS just to see if that could be the culprit. simply short out the outer two wires in the connector.



if it were a hose issue, you'd know the second you opened the gas cap. if it were hot out and the bike hasn't been running you'd get an expulsion of pressure from inside the tank, if you had just run the bike you would get a suction of air into the tank. pressure imbalances are obvious. a pinched hose is easily noticed.
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