06 600rr won't start! - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-09-2006, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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06 600rr won't start!

I have a 600rr which is about a month old. It wont start at all only clicking when I hit the ingnition. The bike was laid down in my garage about a week ago but was not droopped. The only damage was to the edge of the handle bar which was a tiny scratch and has been running fine since then.


I jumped it with my car and it started right up. It would only crank over about four times and die all over again. So I checked the voltage and it's putting out 11.5v. I'm probably going to end up taking back to the dealer.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-09-2006, 09:12 PM
 
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was your car running when you jumped your bike? Car battery puts out too much power for a jump.
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-09-2006, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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No my car was off.
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-09-2006, 09:22 PM
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bike starts and dies all over again and i quote
1. check the idle adjuster if the idle is too low or got messed up from dropping the bike the bike wont idle a steady idle therefore will shut off unless you keep on giving it gas

check that & post back up and will try something else



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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-09-2006, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Sorry...I stated that wrong. It idles fine but when I shut her down it will no start up again. As if there is not enough juice for it start back up again.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-09-2006, 09:58 PM
 
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bring it back and ask for a new battery, they'll probably say no, but it's worth a shot, especially on a new bike, and it seems like it's a battery problem only.
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-09-2006, 10:10 PM
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check the oil level!
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-09-2006, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
 
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I plan to take a trip back to the dealership on thursday.
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-09-2006, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thetank442003
Sorry...I stated that wrong. It idles fine but when I shut her down it will no start up again. As if there is not enough juice for it start back up again.
This happens regardless of the time you allow the bike to sit
ie lets say you just went for a ride you stop for fuel or a snack
you shut the bike off and when you try to start it the bike is dead
if that is the case then one of 2 things are taking place
1. The battery has a bad cell so its not holding a charge
2. The battery is good but the rectifier/ regulator is not charging
the solution is simple take the battery to discount auto . pep boys
or auto zone for a battery test if it passes then your charging system
is the problem on the other hand if it does not pass them you need a new battery

try these steps and post back up the results good luck



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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-09-2006, 11:28 PM
 
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the bike has to be over something like 6k for it to charge! jump it, take it for a 10 minute ride and then check it again... the battery will not charge sitting at idle!
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-10-2006, 09:00 AM
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If the bikes is running the battery is being charged. Period. The R/R is verified to be operating correctly at 5,500 rpm at a specified 15.5v. That doesn't mean it doesn't charge at idle.

With that being said, all you need to do is go buy a $20 battery tender and charge it at 1amp for 5-8 hrs. Problem solved. 11.5v is way too low to crank the bike. Read the label on your battery. It says anything lower 12.4v and the battery needs to be charged. Then every 3-4 months charge it the same way regardless of how it cranks. Stop using a car to jump the bike. Only in an emergency and never when the car is running. Amp loads are much, much higher off the car's alternator.


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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-10-2006, 10:42 AM
 
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[QUOTE=NewRedRider]If the bikes is running the battery is being charged. Period. QUOTE]

I've been told by the dealer that the battery will not charge if the bike is just at idle. It has to be over a certain rpm to charge.

Just take it to the dealer. It should still be under warranty. Mine did the same and they replaced the battery for me.
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-10-2006, 11:53 AM
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[QUOTE=Bensin2]
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewRedRider
If the bikes is running the battery is being charged. Period. QUOTE]

I've been told by the dealer that the battery will not charge if the bike is just at idle. It has to be over a certain rpm to charge.

Just take it to the dealer. It should still be under warranty. Mine did the same and they replaced the battery for me.
Put a voltmeter on the battery and tell me.


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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-10-2006, 12:32 PM
 
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You could be right. I never checked for my self just took the dealers word for it. I'll check it tonight when I get home.

Brent

[QUOTE=NewRedRider]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bensin2
Put a voltmeter on the battery and tell me.
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-10-2006, 03:43 PM
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[QUOTE=Bensin2]You could be right. I never checked for my self just took the dealers word for it. I'll check it tonight when I get home.

Brent

Those damn salesman!


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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-10-2006, 04:01 PM
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[QUOTE=Bensin2]
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewRedRider
If the bikes is running the battery is being charged. Period. QUOTE]

I've been told by the dealer that the battery will not charge if the bike is just at idle. It has to be over a certain rpm to charge.

Just take it to the dealer. It should still be under warranty. Mine did the same and they replaced the battery for me.
First of all half the guys at dealerships dont know wtf they are ever talking about. So with that cleared up, NewRedRider KNOWS what HES talkin about, the battery is getting the same amount of charge whether its ideling or redlining. Proof of this is how your lights stay at a constant brightness no matter how fast you are going or when you rev it up as it sits in N (in theory). This is the whole purpose of the voltage rectifier/regulator, to "regulate" and keep the charge constant.
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-10-2006, 05:02 PM
 
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The regulator only regulates the voltage coming from the battery to the rest of the bike, not the voltage coming from the Stator to the battery. It's even stated in the Honda manual to rev the bike up to 5k RPMs when testing the charging system.


Last edited by beung; 05-10-2006 at 05:04 PM.
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-10-2006, 07:17 PM
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^^ Umm i dont think so. Someone please correct me if i am wrong. The regulator is inbetween the stator and the battery. That is why when the regulator goes out (which they always do, i've replaced many of these) the battery usually gets fukced because the "raw" voltage from the stator passes right through the faulty regulator and frys the battery with all the unregulated current. Another symptom of a bad regulator is the battery wont hold a charge and I dont see how this would occur if the regulator was AFTER the battery ...
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-11-2006, 12:18 PM
 
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Thats usually the rectifier that goes, a rectifier and a regulator server two different purposes, it just so happens that the rectifier and regulator are built into the same unit on bikes but are not the same thing. The rectifier converts the AC electrical from the Stator into DC.

Plus if the regulator was before the battery, your lights would dimm if the battery got low on juice because the voltage coming from the battery to the bike's electrical would not be constant.

Last edited by beung; 05-11-2006 at 12:21 PM.
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-11-2006, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APEX_600RR
^^ Umm i dont think so. Someone please correct me if i am wrong. The regulator is inbetween the stator and the battery. That is why when the regulator goes out (which they always do, i've replaced many of these) the battery usually gets fukced because the "raw" voltage from the stator passes right through the faulty regulator and frys the battery with all the unregulated current. Another symptom of a bad regulator is the battery wont hold a charge and I dont see how this would occur if the regulator was AFTER the battery ...
Correct. Otherwise you'd be buying a battery as often as Nemesis.

This is why Honda installed the heat shield over the 04+ models. The 03's didn't have the heat shield and was located too close to the headers. The R/R eventually overheated causing the voltage to fluctuate to high and low for the battery and eventually damages the battery cells.

As far as the posted screenshot, this is why people are getting confused with the "It doesn't charge your battery until 5K rpm". This is a measured, repeatable point (5K rpm) where Honda engineers know what the R/R's output shoud be. It doesn't say that it's not charging unless it's above 5k rpm. Don't read what's not there. If the bike is running the alternator is spinning and is producing electricity.


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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-11-2006, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beung
Thats usually the rectifier that goes, a rectifier and a regulator server two different purposes, it just so happens that the rectifier and regulator are built into the same unit on bikes but are not the same thing. The rectifier converts the AC electrical from the Stator into DC.

Plus if the regulator was before the battery, your lights would dimm if the battery got low on juice because the voltage coming from the battery to the bike's electrical would not be constant.
You just contradicted your own statement. The Rectifier/Regulator is all one unit. How can you have one before the battery and then one after?

The rectifier switchs from AC to DC and the regulator "regulates" the amount of voltage.


PS Your electricals (i.e. lights, guage cluster, etc) don't run off the battery. They run off the alternator. If the bike was wired like a car you could take the battery out with it running and still drive with no problems. I've had to do it before.


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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-11-2006, 12:55 PM
 
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Just because they are in the same unit does not mean they perform the same job or in sequence of each other.

"PS Your electricals (i.e. lights, guage cluster, etc) don't run off the battery. They run off the alternator. If the bike was wired like a car you could take the battery out with it running and still drive with no problems. I've had to do it before."

Don't you think you have this backwards? If what you say is true that the bike's electrical runs off the alternator then the battery only servers to start the bike and it would run without the battery, which it can not.
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-11-2006, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beung
Just because they are in the same unit does not mean they perform the same job or in sequence of each other.

"PS Your electricals (i.e. lights, guage cluster, etc) don't run off the battery. They run off the alternator. If the bike was wired like a car you could take the battery out with it running and still drive with no problems. I've had to do it before."

Don't you think you have this backwards? If what you say is true that the bike's electrical runs off the alternator then the battery only servers to start the bike and it would run without the battery, which it can not.
Right, but it's still one unit before the battery. The battery does serve to start the bike. The reason you can't remove it like a car is the battery is in the loop. Once the bike is cranked and running it doesn't use the battery. It simply passes right through.


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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-11-2006, 02:12 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewRedRider
Right, but it's still one unit before the battery. The battery does serve to start the bike. The reason you can't remove it like a car is the battery is in the loop. Once the bike is cranked and running it doesn't use the battery. It simply passes right through.

After looking at the compete diagram, I agree with you there - or else you would not be able to boost a dead bike and it idle, which a bike has no problem doing.

Some one just needs to put a meter on the battery while idling, if it's less then the regulated amount then the bike charges more/faster above idle.

Last edited by beung; 05-11-2006 at 02:15 PM.
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-11-2006, 02:40 PM
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Wow...the old alternator argument
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-11-2006, 02:44 PM
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Wow...the old alternator argument
It's just as good today as it was 20 years ago.


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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-22-2006, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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This is my first chance to post since I picked up my bike from the dealership. They said it was a bad battery so they replaced it and everything seems fine so far. They tried charging it and it would not hold a charge.

Thanks
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-22-2006, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by NewRedRider
Correct. Otherwise you'd be buying a battery as often as Nemesis.
Hey!....hahaha

I'm glad everything worked out for you. Like I mentioned numerous of times, always start with the battery. Honda's are notorious for bad batteries/electrical problems on mc/auto.
post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-25-2006, 09:24 PM
 
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i've had the same prob with my 05. managed to get it running a few days in a row without jumpin it but took it in to honda anyways..
they tested all the components, alltinator etc........ that was all fine the battery was just [email protected]#ked, hondas battery warrantys work on a pro- rata sys, but the service manager checked it up and i rode away with a new batt no cost!!!!!
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