Perhaps the pads need time & use to properly bed into the discs?
I've never used cmc's but that would be my initial thought if this situation
Both the discs and pads aren't brand new, both of them have been used together before on another bike. Both rotors are almost the same thickness.
I've seen the post in your build and had no ideas. Reading this thread though, and a thought came up. I am by no means an expert, just having a go :) could the difference in play be due to the dics rather than the calipers? If you remove the calipers, do the discs have the same play?
I had that checked, both rotors had the same play in them before I installed them.
probably the pistons in that caliper aren't retracting enough, have you tried popping the pistons out, clean the o-rings & put some silicone grease in to make them slide in/out easier?
I haven't done any of that, all I did was clean the visible piston surface with brake cleaner and a toothbrush, its a 2011 and this is only the 3rd set of pads to ever be installed.
This is solid advice but before I'd even go this far into it, since your bike is a 2011, I'd simply remove some fluid in the reservoir and fully push the caliper Pistons back in to the caliper and use the lever to pump them back out a few times to see if that works them in. Then rebleed and put the correct fluid level back in.
I'd do both sides as well and is something I do on older bikes when I change pads because if you think about your disks, the pad thickness and how far really those picks travel in their "normal" operation it's like 1 mm every time you grab the lever, back and forth that same 2-3mm depending on pad wear gets used.
Exercise them, check their operation and if the wheel spins like it should you're good and stop thinking about it; it's not that unusual for this type of inconsistency to occur between sides, especially since you are listening and looking for it as long as the wheel spins freely.
Thanks, that sounds like a good plan. will do that.
I'd check your spacers on your wheels as well, just to make sure you put them on the correct sides.
Spacers never left the wheel.
You are being a motorcycle hypochondriac rad...
There is no mechanism to retract the pads from the rotors. When you release pressure on the lever it's not as though they will release. The pad contact discussion has happened here 1000 times because people actively look for issues after doing their own work. Some drag is 100% normal, but nobody checks for it BEFORE they change something.
The cmcs will accentuate the feeling because they are extremely loud. You don't have an issue
Dude, these are bloody CMCs, I got them used and they still cost an arm and a leg, you should know of all people. I just want to make sure everything is proper before I start riding it, especially when this is my first time doing this whole process. I know that there is always a bit of drag to prevent stuff from getting between the friction material and the rotor, and that it is acceptable to an extent, but I want to understand and make sure the discrepancy between calipers is not an issue. Checking before I started wouldn't make a difference since I would be comparing semi-floating OEM Yutakas to the CMCs, completely different as you know.