Problems after oil change. - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2006, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Problems after oil change.

I have a 03 with 3400 miles. I changed the oil the for the first time and drained the coolant bottle. I filled the bike with 3 quarts of oil and forgot to cycle the engine before riding. I rode it to work (12 miles) and it kept jerking hard and the oil light would come on and go off, and this would repeat every five minutes. After pouring more oil in the light stayed off and it rode home fine.
I've ridden it three days with no problems and after getting gas today it started again. The oil level is fine, but the light is now coming on and going off. Just looking for ideas so I don't have to go to the dealer.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2006, 09:37 AM
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Well first, on behalf of your bike....

For not changing the oil soon enough. Now, check the oil by warming the bike to normal temps and then shut it off. Wait a few minutes and then balance the bike upright with both tires on the ground. With the bike upright look at your sight glass and see that you are between the high and low marks. If you're NOT between the marks, add or subtract oil until you are. You have to check it when it's warm and upright.

Another thought, your "oil" light is actually called the MIL or Malfunction Indicator Lamp, and is used for many things besides your oil level. This sounds like a EFI problem or a saftey switch problem to me. Check your kick stand switch, safety neutral switch, and your BAS to make sure you don't have any loose connections.


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2006, 01:42 PM
 
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I agree with NewRedRider about that it sounds like it is a non-oil related issue. When I change the oil in my '03 I just put in 3 quarts and the oil level is just fine.

Also, why did you drain the coolant bottle? Did you refill it? Unless you were flushing the entire coolant system out and/or changing the coolant there was no reason to drain the coolant bottle.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2006, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, I forgot to mention I bought the bike used and it had 2600 on it. After reading old post I learned that it wasn't necassary to change the oil until the 3000 mile mark. I always place my bike on my bike stands so checking the oil to be level is not a problem. I did forget to cycle the engine before riding, to see where the level would be after the first engine cycle.
I removed the coolant bottle because I couldn't reach the oil filter without removing it and the coolant looked old so I bought new coolant just to refill the coolant bottle after the oil change.
I'm not for sure, but I think the oil light is blinking only once and then remains on until you start the bike, but I'll double check tonight. If this is so then it's the MAP sensor?

Last edited by FLYNBYU; 05-25-2006 at 12:37 AM.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2006, 06:28 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewRedRider
Well first, on behalf of your bike....

For not changing the oil soon enough. Now, check the oil by warming the bike to normal temps and then shut it off. Wait a few minutes and then balance the bike upright with both tires on the ground. With the bike upright look at your sight glass and see that you are between the high and low marks. If you're NOT between the marks, add or subtract oil until you are. You have to check it when it's warm and upright.

Another thought, your "oil" light is actually called the MIL or Malfunction Indicator Lamp, and is used for many things besides your oil level. This sounds like a EFI problem or a saftey switch problem to me. Check your kick stand switch, safety neutral switch, and your BAS to make sure you don't have any loose connections.

Where's the sight glass? Can you post a pic of it? NEVERMIND----FOUND IT

Last edited by WellDawg08; 05-24-2006 at 06:57 PM.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2006, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLYNBYU
I not for sure, but I think the oil light is blinking only once and then remains on until you start the bike, but I'll double check tonight. If this is so then it's the MAP sensor?
Not necessarily. Just to be safe, have you checked your battery terminals and the main ground to make sure they're not loose or corroded? What about your PIN connectors?

Is this how you're getting the code?



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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-25-2006, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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No, I completely forgot about the little things. I'll have to check the battery and other connectors in the morning.
When I was checking for the code. I thought I could just turn the bike on, with the stand down, but not start it and then the light blinked and after the blink it stayed lit. That's why I thought it was just one blink.
I've been reading old post and looking through the service manual, but I'll have to look a little more closely.

Last edited by FLYNBYU; 05-25-2006 at 12:35 AM.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-25-2006, 09:20 AM
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Let us know what you find.


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-29-2006, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Well, the problem might have been my battery. Went to leave work and it turn on, but clicked dead. I shook the seat and the cluster lit back up and then died. After messing with the terminals the bike started.
Has anyone ever tapped the holes of the terminals to get a better fit for the screws. I can't get the screws to stay in tightly. I know they provide a nut for the back, but there is not enough room for me to use it.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-30-2006, 10:56 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLYNBYU
Well, the problem might have been my battery. Went to leave work and it turn on, but clicked dead. I shook the seat and the cluster lit back up and then died. After messing with the terminals the bike started.
Has anyone ever tapped the holes of the terminals to get a better fit for the screws. I can't get the screws to stay in tightly. I know they provide a nut for the back, but there is not enough room for me to use it.
Huh? Are you telling us that you have the screws sitting on the battery terminals but are not threaded into anything so everything is just sitting loose? If so then you need to get the provided nuts on there and secure those bolts down. Without the battery cables being securely fastened I'd imaging that you'd always have issues like that. You need a good connection, the cables need to be held on firmly. I know it's a real PITA working with those nuts but IMO it's not bad enough to do without.
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