Got the bike dynoed. 82.8hp to the wheel?!?! - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-11-2015, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Got the bike dynoed. 82.8hp to the wheel?!?!

Bike has had an issue with high rpms for awhile. Did a dyno run and it put 82 to the wheel. What they didnt know is that it wont rev higher than 13k at wot. If they would have let off the throttle a hair it would have revved all the way to redline. Without knowing this, the tech told me without skipping a beat that it was the plugs. What do you guys think? Its a 2005 with only a yoshi rs5 slip on. What should I be making? Should I change the plugs regardless to see if it helps cause I know its a pain in the ass to change them.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-12-2015, 09:38 AM
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You call, if you want the bike to run better then you need to try what you can, pain in the ass or not.

Been seeing a lot of older RR's with bad plugs causing similar symptoms on here lately. It seems like it might be the way the cap clamps the plug top wears eventually. The other common area with running conditions like you describe is the fuel pump. I'd check that as well, follow your service manual directions for both items.

FYI a dyno reading is only as good as another bike like yours on that dyno. By that I mean with a mouse click you can make a dyno say a 600 puts out 150hp and they need to be calibrated often which they rarely are so the actual number is really only a realitive thing compared to what that dyno says another like bike says. On a calibrated dyno with a good operator and a healthy bike with a good rear tire it should be right about 100 give or take a few.

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Last edited by Miweber929; 04-12-2015 at 09:42 AM.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-12-2015, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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ok thanks for the info
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-12-2015, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewstone893 View Post
Bike has had an issue with high rpms for awhile. Did a dyno run and it put 82 to the wheel. What they didnt know is that it wont rev higher than 13k at wot. If they would have let off the throttle a hair it would have revved all the way to redline. Without knowing this, the tech told me without skipping a beat that it was the plugs. What do you guys think? Its a 2005 with only a yoshi rs5 slip on. What should I be making? Should I change the plugs regardless to see if it helps cause I know its a pain in the ass to change them.

What on earth does this mean. You obviously have an issue that is much more serious than spark plugs.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-12-2015, 06:12 PM
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Sounds like TPS issue.

Did they rev it all the way to redline on the dyno?
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-12-2015, 08:40 PM
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Are you sure the throttle cables are set to actually open the throttle all the way.

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-12-2015, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by cbrkat28 View Post
Are you sure the throttle cables are set to actually open the throttle all the way.
There isn't a stop in the housing on the handle bar, so I'm not sure how this would be possible?
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-12-2015, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
There isn't a stop in the housing on the handle bar, so I'm not sure how this would be possible?
The cables connect to somewhere else though don't they? I honestly have no idea but after fixing something that required removing the throttle bodies I've noticed a lack of umph, and I wonder if that's why.

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-12-2015, 10:51 PM
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There is a stop at the throttle body side, but its a mechanical stop on the lobe the cables attach to, not the cables themselves
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-12-2015, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
There is a stop at the throttle body side, but its a mechanical stop on the lobe the cables attach to, not the cables themselves
:rolleyes:

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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-13-2015, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbrkat28 View Post
:rolleyes:
Scoff all you want, he's right. There is a mechanical stop to the throttle cable, no way can the cables do what you are implying they do. I get that you're "wondering" outloud because of your situation but it's not helping people with real problems find real solutions.

Op, the TPS could potentially be an issue, but a simple test will rule it out and just a gut feeling but unless you've played with it should be set correctly.

Any other symptoms? Have a Power Commander on it?
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-13-2015, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Miweber929 View Post
Scoff all you want, he's right. There is a mechanical stop to the throttle cable, no way can the cables do what you are implying they do. I get that you're "wondering" outloud because of your situation but it's not helping people with real problems find real solutions.

Op, the TPS could potentially be an issue, but a simple test will rule it out and just a gut feeling but unless you've played with it should be set correctly.

Any other symptoms? Have a Power Commander on it?
the rolleyes was actually because instead of all the words he used and you used, all I wanted to know is if it was possible or not...so an answer with just a yes or no would be all I need to know if it's a possibility or is the culprit something else.

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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-13-2015, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by cbrkat28 View Post
the rolleyes was actually because instead of all the words he used and you used, all I wanted to know is if it was possible or not...so an answer with just a yes or no would be all I need to know if it's a possibility or is the culprit something else.
Ok then:

No.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-13-2015, 10:39 AM
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Then I'm leaning towards the tps myself; after the repair I recalibrated the throttle in bazzaz's software afterward and a value suggesting that I wasn't actually going for 100% throttle displayed.

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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2015, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
What on earth does this mean. You obviously have an issue that is much more serious than spark plugs.
This response is exactly why i get pissed every time i even think about the problem. Its soooooooooooooooooo hard to explain in words and makes me sound retarded when i try to. I mean exactly what you think i mean. But i recently changed the oil and re-stacked the clutch plates and torqued down the clutch spring bolts. Rode the bike, and for about 10 miles it worked like it should, then went right back to doing what it was normally doing. To the guy asking, no the dyno did not hit redline. He kept it wot and was unaware the bike wouldn't rev to redline unless he let off the throttle just a hair. Like I said after checking the friction plates (they were fine) I re stacked the plates and torqued the bolts, put new oil and filter in it and boom it ran like new and the problem went away. I have no clue why the clutch or age of the oil would have anything to do with it but apparently it did. and now instead of always doing it, it is hit and miss and sometimes will work and sometimes wont. I am lost at what do do other than take it to a shop and literally just say figure it the **** out but that bill wouldnt be pretty and i sure as **** couldn't afford it. Hence why i ride a 10 year old bike.
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2015, 03:15 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Miweber929 View Post

Op, the TPS could potentially be an issue, but a simple test will rule it out and just a gut feeling but unless you've played with it should be set correctly.

Any other symptoms? Have a Power Commander on it?

Bike is stock other than slip on. Has a brand new yoshi rs5 that i put on myself and the problem existed before and after the install with no change. Also can you give me a step by step for the tps test? I have a multi meter if I need one.
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2015, 03:17 AM Thread Starter
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Are you sure the throttle cables are set to actually open the throttle all the way.
Yes the cables open the butterfly valves in the TB all the way. I have a video on my phone of all the valves opening correctly.
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2015, 03:21 AM Thread Starter
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Also what is the story on the tps. From what ive heard they are not sold separate from the throttle body and you would have to buy a new throttle body. That is waaaaaay to much money so where can I get JUST the tps?
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2015, 04:04 AM
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I have had 5 or so 600rr bikes and not one of the had any tps problems (one with 50k+ miles).

So by restack clutch plates and re-torqued springs you mean you re-used the old plates steels and springs? If so, there's your answer right there. Time for NEW plates, steels, and springs. My ZX-10r had the exact same problem. It'll get worse pretty quick.

If you still think its the tps I have an entire throttle body set up I can sell you cheap.

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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2015, 04:28 AM
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I was noticing today my clutch is starting to slip, free play had been way off for too long, and my clutchwork surely has room for improvement.

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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-15-2015, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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So by restack clutch plates and re-torqued springs you mean you re-used the old plates steels and springs?
Well no i didnt reuse them. I never intended to change them when i took the clutch cover off. I just wanted to check the friction plates for wear and they seemed fine. So I reassembled it but that seemed to fix the problem for a short amount of time. If anything I think I would just need springs. Also I still dont know why the clutch would cause the problem. Im not saying it isnt I just have no idea why because I always could make it redline whenever I wanted and the problem persists in neutral too. I have to manipulate the throttle to get it to redline rather than just slam it wide open i have to roll on the throttle and stop twisting it just before it hits the stop. Then I messed around with the clutch and changed the oil so it could be either one of those things that made the problem better. Anyway here is a picture of the plates and steels.
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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-16-2015, 12:23 AM
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The clutch won't affect how far the engine will rev. It will affect power output on the dyno, but not the bike's ability to reach redline.

I can't really give you much guidance on your issue. I can tell you what it definitely is not, but not what it is.

Tps is a possibility, but without actually putting a meter on it one can't say for sure
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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 11:58 PM
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Holy shitt!!! Bump!! I have the same problem! My 2004 is hitting s wall at 13k rpm but if i tease the throttle it may or maynot break past it. Ive changed fuel pump, put new plugs in. I thought about the coil packs and bought a pwo used pair bc oem honda was too much money, still same problem. I swapped the ecu and map sensors off my buddys 03 cbr thag runs fine. But the promblems the same. Ive tested for power on so many wires everything seems to be getting power. Finally today i was trying to test the tps but could not. It would not show a reading. Im so lost, have you found anything out about this problem?
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