20amp fuse blowing - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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20amp fuse blowing

Okay so I ended up getting my bike to start by jumping the pink wire from the ignition to a 9v battery. It ran for about 30 seconds and the 20a fuse blew by the battery. Now every time I turn the key the fuse blows. My bas is jumped and if I unplug it the fuse doesn't blow but as soon as I put the jumper back in it blows the fuse. I'm assuming it's a short somewhere but I've traced every inch of wire on this bike and haven't found anything that looks bad or tests bad. Help?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 02:46 PM
 
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You can't run your bike on a 9v battery. Why did you have to bypass the ignition?
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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The diode in the ignition was broken and putting out 12v to the pump so the pump wouldn't kick on. And no it's not running on a 9v battery. Just the bypass for the pink wire is running on 9v. It's some anti theft thing that's suppose to reduce the power to the fuel pump from 12 to 9
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 04:36 PM
 
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Correct, you can use a zener diode to replace the broken one and get the ECM to turn on the fuel pump. You can't run your bike while using the 9v battery to turn on your fuel pump. Not sure how you have this wired but where are you getting a ground from the battery to the bike?
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Well I did get the fuel pump to kick on by wiring a 9v battery from the pink wire in the ecm to the ground on my battery. Fired right up then blew my fuse. Would a bad rectifier cause the fuse to blow?
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-03-2017, 08:20 PM
 
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No, the battery is causing your fuse to blow, it's not wired correct. Send me a picture of how you have it wired and I can help. Getting a zener diode to replace your OEM one is your best bet.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-04-2017, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Pink wire to positive then ground to battery
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-04-2017, 11:14 AM
 
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That's not going to work. We have zener diodes to replace your OEM one. DO you have your ignition still?
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-04-2017, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Yes still have my ignition. But even with that unhooked the fuse still blows as soon as the key turns. I assembled everything back to factory and it continues to blow fuses. I got a wiring diagram and followed everything from it and everything tests perfect around 12.4v. I'm going to grab a zener diode after work today. What should I get? 3.9v 1 watt?
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-04-2017, 11:51 AM
 
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Going to have to trace every component that is attached to the 20amp fuse. Before the fuse blew something had to have burned and is now shorting. Run/stop switch is on or off when you turn on the key?

3.9 may work. It's close to the rating needed
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Okay I ordered a 3.9v 1 watt diode. If I turn the key with the switch off it doesn't blow. As soon as I hit the kill switch to on it blows immediately. I've traced everything on that circuit and have found no shorts. Oh and I don't have front turn signals so they've been tucked out of the way with caps and taped. Correct me if I'm wrong but the fuel pump, injectors and spark plugs all run thought the kill switch?
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 07:20 PM
 
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Yes, so your problem is in the kill switch or in the wiring from the kill switch to the ECM, the ignition to the kill switch, I think it's here. or your kill switch back to the fuse. The 9v how it's wired is causing the short. You can't use it the way you are, that is why they use the zener diode. How are you checking for a short?

You can only use the 9v to test that your ECM is working and triggering your fuel pump to turn on. It's just a tester not a way to keep the bike running.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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I was testing with a meter. Okay so I think you're right. I unplugged my kill switch and the fuse doesn't blow. One of the wires in the switch had 2 tiny frayed wires so I bypassed it with a toggle switch. I'm going to trace the wires back to the ecm from the switch and see if I can't find a problem or possibly eliminate the connector. So far it's still blowing the fuse but I'm becoming hopeful
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-05-2017, 11:03 PM
 
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That's good news. General area to look for the problem. Hopefully that will fix you up. T
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-06-2017, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Okay so I've got a box of diodes coming Tuesday because I'm sure I'll break or mess one up. I've now traced everything off that kill switch and can't find a problem. My hopes of having this thing ready this weekend just went down the drain. Stumped again
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-11-2017, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Totally stumped. Got 9-9.1 volts running from pink wire to ecm. Still blowing fuse. No shorts that I've been able to find. Entire wiring harness is torn apart and everything looks good. Possibly a bad ecm or fuel pump?
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