An 06 that won't start, multiple issues....Help! - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-17-2017, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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An 06 that won't start, multiple issues....Help!

I picked up an 06 600rr from a tow yard and it has some issues as expected. First, it won't start via the start button. When pressing the button, I get dimming lights and nothing else. The fuel pump relay was also damaged and is exposed. If the contacts inside have pressure applied to connect them, the fuel pump will run. However, if I swap relays or put a new one in the damaged ones place, the pump will not run.

The starter solenoid may have issues too? I can start the bike if I jump the two posts/contacts, but that's the only way (assuming I have the jerry rigged fuel pump going). I swapped out the solenoid too and that made no difference.

The battery is new, but I don't have a multi-meter to verify its output. I will get one and a new battery if that is worthwhile.

I will check the tip sensor and have ordered a new neutral safety switch.

Any suggestions are appreciated!!
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 11:02 AM
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Check the ecu for fault codes then reset. Try starting the bike then check the ecu again for fault codes. Then check the manual for what codes are showing and start from there.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-19-2017, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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How do I check the ecu codes?
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-19-2017, 01:05 PM
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is your neutral light on?


chances are your issue won't throw a code.

the only thing that will lock out the starter is the kickstand switch (if the bike is in gear with the sidestand down), and the clutch switch (if the bike is in gear with the sidestand in any position)


basically, if the bike is recognized in neutral, it should crank. no matter the state of any of the safety switches.




the lack of the fuel pump priming could be your bank angle sensor. you can bypass it by jumping the outer two wires in the 3 wire plug.




this is the first place to start for you. the fact that you have headlights means that the circuit to pull the starter relay is energized.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 01:00 AM Thread Starter
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Ok....I cannot figure this out! I have bypassed the BAS, bypassed the clutch safety and cleaned up the kill switch. The bike will fire and run with the jumped fuel pump relay, but not with a normal replacement relay. It just seems to come down to the relay apparently?

I checked power to the fuel pump with a normal relay and it only has one hot lead which won't operate the pump. With the jumped relay I get two hot leads for the pump and it will work. What is causing the relay not to do its job?

I'm getting a little annoyed.....

Thx!
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 01:14 AM
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the ecu switches the negative of the coil side of the relay to turn the relay "on"


remove the relay and put your meter from the negative side of the coil to the chassis, when you flick the kill switch on, you should get continuity to ground for a couple of seconds, then show open loop.

if this doesn't happen, you could have a bad ecu.




does the start button work now?
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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I tried that already and didn't notice a change, but I'll give it a shot again. My starter button does work now, that was resolved by bypassing the clutch safety which had damaged wiring and a bad diode
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 12:49 PM
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If you force the negative of the relay coil to ground does the relay latch?
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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How do I do that?

BTW, I cleaned and checked the kill switch again and checked the power to the relay when it is on, the power is there to the relay. I also found the there are 12v making it to the ECM from the relay. I checked the brown wire that comes from the relay to the ECM and its hot. Would it be the ECM that is not cooperating?
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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When I directly ground the brown w/black stripe wire on the fuel pump relay, it comes on and works. What the heck? What does this mean?
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Could this have anything to do with my 02 sensor being disconnected also?
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 07:03 PM
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it means that the ecu isn't switching that wire to ground like it's supposed to.


try a known good ecu, 99% that's the issue.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-21-2017, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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I have ordered one and it should be here in a few days. Fingers crossed!

This bike will be practically new by the time I'm done! Ugh!
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-22-2017, 12:22 AM
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i said try one, not buy one!


if you have 12v sitting at the coil side of the relay, the last step is the ecu switching the negative leg to ground. so chances are that'll do it. but i never recommend purchasing parts before testing
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-25-2017, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't have access to anyone around to borrow an ECM. I figured I could return it if it wasn't the culprit.

Either way, the new one arrived. I plugged it in and guess what....the fuel pump primed and stopped as it was supposed to! It worked!!!! I don't think I would have ever really considered the ECM as the source of the issue, so I appreciate the suggestion!

I am now swapping out my main wiring harness due to the lots of little damage here and there. Fingers crossed everything fires once I'm done
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-25-2017, 05:24 PM
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you should be good to go sir.


i'm not entirely sure what is causing the contacts in the ecm to burn out. but it's a known problem.
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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So the wire harness has been installed and the new ECM as well. The bike seems to be great, but sometimes when it's completely turned off and sitting, I hear the fuel pump or cutt-off relay clicking. I'm really confused as to why is doing that while the bike is off? Any ideas?
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 11:51 AM
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verify which relay is doing that.


with the key off the whole system should be dead. the only hot wire will be the one to the gauges to store the time.
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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It's the relay closest to the front of the bike, I believe that is the cut-off relay. Very odd!
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-28-2017, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Any thoughts on why the bike seems to smell a lot like fuel? There are no leaks that I can find anywhere. May have flooded it while trying to start it with the electrical issues, but that should have burned off by now
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-29-2017, 10:37 AM
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Have you actually run it for a while? Taken it for a ride? Or is it still sitting there being scrutinized.
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-30-2017, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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I've ridden around for a little while making sure everything works appropriately. Nothing too long yet as I'm still buttoning up the new fairings and have to do an oil change.
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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-30-2017, 11:22 AM
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I wouldn't worry until you have actually put some good miles on it.

Too many people look so hard for issues that they start inventing them.

Just make sure there aren't any pinched hoses or obvious leaks.

Last edited by wibbly; 08-30-2017 at 11:27 AM.
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 08-30-2017, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Will do, just didn't know of it was a common issue. I hate my clothes smelling of gas. Reminds me of my old 87 gixxer 7/11
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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-08-2017, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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So the fuel pump relay keeps ticking when the bike is off and eventually drains the battery unless it's on a tender.

The relay has has three black and white wires going to it as well as a brown and a brown with black. While the bike is off and key out, the black and white wires still show 12v hot at the relay.

What the heck? Is this another ECM issue? Help!

Other than the random relay ticking, everything else works on the bike as it should.
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