2005 600rr won't start and I've already tried a search for this :) - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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2005 600rr won't start and I've already tried a search for this :)

Hi all. I'm in a complete bind here and after scouring the depths of the web, I have to ask a question that has no doubt been asked before, but countless searches reveal countless answers, so I'd thought I'd see if anyone has had exactly the same problem.
Basically my buddy took over his brother's 2005 600rr and brought it back to street use from the track. His brother rode it hard and put it away wet, so there was a lot of cleaning. When I took it my goal was to get the rear indicators wired back up, clean it up (clean and adjust chain, remove grease and corrsion etc), oil change, and fix all the broken plastic mounts from multiple crashes (headlight cowl, etc).
The bike seemed to run without issue when he brought it to me, and throughout the time I had it, it always ran fine. It sat in my garage for about 3 weeks after it was fixed before he picked it up. Over that time, I started it and it ran with no issues. The battery stayed on a battery tender the entire time and remains very strong.
The day before he picked it up a mutual friend came over and I started the bike, and again it ran fine. When my buddy came to pick it up, we started it, and it seemed a little off, just barely, but I just attributed it to
being cold, and we only ran it for a second. We wheeled it to his trailer and he towed it home. The next day he called me and asked if I had been playing around with the engine. He said he took it off his trailer, and drove it up the driveway, but it had next to no power, and eventually died. He was never able to get it running again. When we try to start it, it cranks, but it never catches. I have absolutely no concerns that he did something to it after picking it up. If he had, he wouldn't have called, and he's not a tinkerer. He pays people to do that.
I have checked all the fuses, including the PGM-FI in the rear. The fuel pump primes, and when I pulled the line off the fuel rail it shot out a health dose of gas during the priming stage and more when I hit the starter. I've checked the kickstand circuit (circuit closed when the stand is down, open when its up), BAL, and neutral position switch. I've drained all the gas, and replaced it,(just in case).
Every so often it just barely chugs like it wants to start but it never gets to that point.

Everything points to some type of fuel starvation. Almost like the fuel line is pinched (but again, fuel comes out quite nicely), and when our friend came over the day before, it used up almost all the fuel after the pinch and then the next day it ran dry. That what it seems like.
There is a vague smell of raw fuel from the exhaust, but just barely. Almost like someone wiped the inside with a gas soaked rag 30 mins ago. You can smell it, but not like you would if it was a flooded carb'd bike. The only thing I haven't checked are the injectors for a clog, which would be unlikely I'm thinking, and the plugs, simply because I can't imagine all 4 going at once, and I'd think with one, or even two gone, even if it didn't start, there would at least be a little detonation. Same goes for the injectors, which leads me to believe it's either before the fuel rail, (but there's fuel from the hose so it would have to be in the fuel rail, or at the coil or earlier, but it just seems like one hell of a coincidence for the coil to just up and go from one day to the other. And if it did, would it really chug for a bit, or wouldn't it die completely and never start again.

Everything to me suggests fuel starvation, but I'm plum out of ideas. Needless to say, while hes a very good
friend, this is a case of: it worked when I dropped it off, and now it doesn't. So regardless of what happened, I still need to fix it, coincidence or not.

As for the MIL, when I turn the key with the kickstand down or up, the FI like turns on and stays red, full stop. If I jump the connectors in the tail, I get 2 short flashes, then 9 flashes. In my repair manual that suggests that there is no issue now, but in its memory there was a PGM-FI fuse fault and battery fault in the past. Both the fuse and the battery are fine. In the fault code sticky thread the codes are something different but are apparently both EON faults, not DNS faults. Also its worth noting, that regardless of if the kickstand is up or down, the bike still cranks. I only put that in there because on my Kawi, if the kickstand is down and you try to start it, its like the key isn't even in.

Like I said, I know there are a lot of do not start threads, but I'm just really hoping something that I just
wrote as jumped out at someone as something familiar.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 09:47 PM
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99% fouled plugs from starting and stopping when cold.

you had it mostly flooded when you shut it off after it "seemed a little off", the next cold start probably did them in.



there's no reason to suspect any sort of safeties or switches. it was running, then you started it and stopped it a bunch of times, then it ran poorly and you stopped it again, then it wouldn't catch.



seems like a pretty simple case to me.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks but maybe the way I worded the starting was off. It wasn't like every day I was starting it and turning it off right away, and it wasn't like I was firing it up, giving it a shot of gas and shutting it down. These were things like changing the oil and letting it run, or starting it up to check all the lights and wiring and making sure the exhaust was on tight. So assume that for two weeks I didn't start it, then one day we started it up, let it run while we chatted and looked it over (as he was interested in buying it), then the next day was the start up, let it run for about a minute or less, and then wheel it to the trailer. So granted on that last time it didn't come up to temperature. I'm not refusing to accept your answer, because I really have no idea, I've just never experienced anything like it in 20 years and 11 bikes.
Since we are going down that path though, would you think it would be a good idea to at least try to clean the plugs to see if makes any difference at all before grabbing new ones? If it improved the situation by any small percent, then I'd throw new ones in, but I'd rather not shell the money out on the chance that it's not it.

EDIT: Hindsight after posting this, I guess once I have them out I could just check them for spark once they are out lol. Are there any tips or tricks for changing the plugs on this bike or is the manual's way the best way?

Last edited by Diabolic; 09-19-2017 at 10:13 PM.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 10:24 PM
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Try to start it again. If it doesn't start try to start it while you hold the throttle wide open. This will shut off the fuel but keep everything else working. If it tries to catch repeat the procedure until you get it running. Once you get it going take it for a good ride
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Unfortunately I've been trying that for two days between changing the fuel, checking the fuel lines, deleting the Kickstand, BAL etc. I think I'm pushing my luck with the starter relay and starter already. If I've learned anything from this so far its that I'm so pleased that I own a naked bike (z1000). Life is so much easier without plastics...especially the ebay ones that he put on this one.

I was more or less hoping that there was something in the error code, fuse/relay, side of things that I hadn't thought of. I really hate doing plugs, and reading the method for the RR makes me realize that I'm not getting out for a ride tomorrow night after work either.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 11:02 PM
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Have you been trying to start it with the throttle wide open? Or just normally


It may be worth while trying to bump start it. The starter doesn't get the engine moving very quickly.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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Haven't tried bump starting it, but I have tried both normally and WOT. I've tried WOT first after letting it sit, and immediately after. I'm not super keen on ringing its neck once it starts either because I can only vouch for the bolts I've touched, not the ones the initial owner hand his hands on. To that point I'm a little surprised that the RR doesn't have a cotter pin or lock washer on the rear axle. That's a new one for me. Its sitting on an optimate tonight, but tomorrow I'll put it on something with a little more juice so I can hold the starter for a few seconds longer, but I suspect the more times I do that, the worse it gets inside. That fuel has to be going somewhere if it's going through the injectors. I'll need a drain valve on the header if I keep this up.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-19-2017, 11:20 PM
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Try bump starting it.

If that doesn't work you're pulling the plugs to check spark
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 01:27 AM
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Getting to the plugs is not as much of a pita as some make it out to be. You can go in from the top, or the bottom. From the bottom all you have to do is remove the radiator mounting bolts and pull it out of the way. No need to drain any coolant. From the top you just have to remove the airbox. Good time to change the air filter.

Good luck man.
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