MORE CBR PROBLEMS: stalling - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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I cant seem to win with this bike. Previously I was able to fix my bike not starting issue by having a shop change replace the fuel pump. The bike ran fine for about 2 and a half weeks but this morning I only got up the block before the bike shut off after pulling in the clutch. The bike was at about 130-140F and it wouldn't turn on again until I waited 2 minutes it would only crank up. After it started up again I got another 4 blocks than the same issue again after I pulled in the clutch in first gear temp was about 150-160F now. It also happens when I pull the clutch in neutral but less frequently. The bike warms up from a cold start at or just above 2k rpm than drops to about 1500 afterwards. When I was riding I felt the bike bogging and struggling noticeably at 4k and as soon as I pulled in the clutch the rpm drops and the bike died. I let the bike warm up for probably 4-5 minutes that morning and it didnt shut off so this might only happen when I pull in the clutch but I'll have to confirm that. Anyone experience anything like this before and found a solution?

2006 cbr600rr
KN air + oil filter
Bazzaz FI
Oil change < 50mi ago
Coolant flush < 50mi ago
Odometer < 13k mi
Two brothers slip on

Last edited by ANTIIV; 12-20-2018 at 12:13 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 11:42 AM
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how old is your battery
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
how old is your battery
It wouldn't surprise me if the battery was more than just a few years old. I've been reading around and I saw a few ppl with similar issue that replaced the rectifier to solve. So I'll test the battery to see if I'm getting upwards of at least 12.4v and the connectors at the rectifier regulator and stator connectors and report back
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 08:32 AM
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VERY round numbers, at the battery you should have around 12 volts DC (or slightly more) with the bike off, 13.5V or so at idle, should climb to 14.5V or so with the bike at ~4000 rpm and should stop climbing by 6K RPM and hover in the 14.5V or so range. If your battery is less than 12v just sitting there charge it before testing.

If you see the static battery voltage with the bike running and it gets lower or doesn’t climb, the 12.5 or whatever your battery measured sitting there, you have issues, probably stator, and if you go above 15V or so at any point in your testing you have issues, probably the rectifier. But both issues can mask each other so do further testing before blindly ordering parts.

Report to us your findings of:

- sitting, bike off
- running at idle
- running at 5000 rpm
- does it climb and peak or does it keep climbing

We can help from there.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2018, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Miweber929 View Post
VERY round numbers, at the battery you should have around 12 volts DC (or slightly more) with the bike off, 13.5V or so at idle, should climb to 14.5V or so with the bike at ~4000 rpm and should stop climbing by 6K RPM and hover in the 14.5V or so range. If your battery is less than 12v just sitting there charge it before testing.

If you see the static battery voltage with the bike running and it gets lower or doesn’t climb, the 12.5 or whatever your battery measured sitting there, you have issues, probably stator, and if you go above 15V or so at any point in your testing you have issues, probably the rectifier. But both issues can mask each other so do further testing before blindly ordering parts.

Report to us your findings of:

- sitting, bike off
- running at idle
- running at 5000 rpm
- does it climb and peak or does it keep climbing

We can help from there.
Here are the readings I got
12.45v bike off
14.37 idle at 2k warm up
14.02 idle at 1.5k
4000rpm 14.43
5000+ rpm 14.38 (peak)

I thought The numbers looked ok based off of what was told to look for and the bike was running fine idling and during tests and I even took it up and down the block no problem. so I wanted to see if I could replicate the issue. So u turned the bike off for 15 minutes got my gear and as soon as I put the bike into gear it shut off. And didnt restart immediately just cranked. Waited 45 seconds and it started. Took the bike half way up the block and it started to run unbelievably jerky at constant rpm and sputter so pulled to the side and it died. Its felt so jerky and violent as if there was nonconsistant fuel delivery or something. Maybe injectors?
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2018, 11:07 AM
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Is there a power commander on the bike.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2018, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Is there a power commander on the bike.
Theres a bazzaz fi tune unit
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2018, 11:52 AM
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Unhook it and try again.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-22-2018, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
Unhook it and try again.
This.

Your charging system seems ok at first glance, I think itís something else.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-23-2018, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
Unhook it and try again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Miweber929 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
Unhook it and try again.
This.

Your charging system seems ok at first glance, I think it’s something else.
Just to clarify, do you mean to unplug just the unit or uninstall the the whole harness? It came installed when I got the bike so I might need to find a pdf with the instructions to remove the whole
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-23-2018, 02:35 AM
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uninstall the bazaaz where it interrupts the fuel injectors

just lift the tank up and unplug the bazaaz harness, then plug in the bike harness.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-26-2018, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
uninstall the bazaaz where it interrupts the fuel injectors

just lift the tank up and unplug the bazaaz harness, then plug in the bike harness.
Update: so I ended up completely removing the tank and the top of the air box, where it exposes the air filter so I'd have easier access to the fuel rails. After I removed the bazzaz connectors, plugged in the bike harness and put the tank back on it seems to running fine. First attempt to start the bike it struggled pretty hard turned for 1 second and died. Second attempt stayed on for a little longer but idled really low and died soon after. Third attempt it started up pretty good and held 2k idled as it usually does warming up. Spent the next 30 minutes riding around my block to see if I could get the bike to die, letting it idle, hard on and off acceleration, turning on/off etc. It didnt die and started up every time.

I'll try out the bike again tmm because it stopped working literally overnight last time. If the problem was a faulty bazzaz I'd probably have to uninstall the rest of it right?

Btw happy holidays if to celebrate(d) anything
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-26-2018, 03:23 PM
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yeah if the bazaaz is faulty you'll have to pull the whole thing, but it's pretty much done now.



it was probably hard to start as it may have been partially flooded. if the bazaaz was dumping fuel it would take a while to clean up.

keep an eye on it, but it's likely you've found the problem.
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