06 CBR600RR Cranks But Does't Fire - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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06 CBR600RR Cranks But Does't Fire

Alright guys, i have a 2006 CBR600RR project bike that i've been trying to get going as it was a dude when i got it. So far i've been able to get the bike to turn over but it doesn't fire up. When the ignition (ignition was replaced with one off of ebay) is turned to the on position all lights operate just fine but the fuel pump does not prime. I run 12V directly to the pump and it primed just fine which tells me it's not the pump.

BAS has been bypassed
Kickstand switch has been bypassed
Neutral Safety switch tested good
No blown fuses

I'm stomped on what it could be as i've tried many things to get the bike to fire up to no avail. Any suggestions


Ignition harness (I found it weird that the switch connector has 4 wires where as the bike harness only has 2. Is that correct)




Just cruising
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post #2 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 02:54 PM
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does the FI lamp come on when you turn the kill switch to run? if it doesn't then your ecu isn't powered up.
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post #3 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
does the FI lamp come on when you turn the kill switch to run? if it doesn't then your ecu isn't powered up.
These are the lights with the ignition on


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post #4 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 04:33 PM
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The fi light will come on only for a few seconds then go out when you turn the kill switch to run

If it doesn't do this then your engine stop relay is not on (controlled by kill switch and bank angle sensor) and your ecu is not powered up.


The ecu has nothing to do with the starter motor circuit. So even with the ecu powered down, the bike may crank.


Check the FI fuse as well as the switches in the engine stop circuit if you don't get the few seconds of FI light.
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post #5 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
The fi light will come on only for a few seconds then go out when you turn the kill switch to run

If it doesn't do this then your engine stop relay is not on (controlled by kill switch and bank angle sensor) and your ecu is not powered up.


The ecu has nothing to do with the starter motor circuit. So even with the ecu powered down, the bike may crank.


Check the FI fuse as well as the switches in the engine stop circuit if you don't get the few seconds of FI light.
Where does the FI light appear

and the FI fuse is good was replaced twice

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post #6 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 04:49 PM
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see how his behaves? the few seconds that go along with the priming of the fuel pump?
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post #7 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 04:55 PM
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also, you should not have bypassed the kickstand switch.


remove the bypass, and with the bike in neutral the FI lamp will read off any codes to you. (it will blink like it does in the video i posted when the bike is in neutral, and sidestand is down), with the sidestand up it will stay solid.




if there are any codes related to the fuel injection system, the bike will not prime the pump for safety reasons.
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post #8 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
also, you should not have bypassed the kickstand switch.


remove the bypass, and with the bike in neutral the FI lamp will read off any codes to you. (it will blink like it does in the video i posted when the bike is in neutral, and sidestand is down), with the sidestand up it will stay solid.




if there are any codes related to the fuel injection system, the bike will not prime the pump for safety reasons.
Reconnected the kickstand sensor and tried. No FI light popped up at all just a constant oil symbol

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post #9 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 05:14 PM
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the oil symbol IS the fi lamp. did you watch the video i posted?


with the bike in neutral and kickstand down, the light will blink off any codes. if there are no codes it will come on for a few seconds then go out.


i'm not 100% on the 06, but all hondas seem to do this. if it won't, install a jumper in the service connector between the brown and green wires.

Last edited by wibbly; 06-23-2019 at 05:20 PM.
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post #10 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
the oil symbol IS the fi lamp. did you watch the video i posted?


with the bike in neutral and kickstand down, the light will blink off any codes. if there are no codes it will come on for a few seconds then go out.
What i meant is the FI light does not appear only the oil lamp i believe which is directly next to where the FI light is suppose illuminate

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post #11 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 05:29 PM
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the oil light IS THE FI LIGHT


you may have to put the jumper in the service connector to get the codes.
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post #12 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
the oil light IS THE FI LIGHT


you may have to put the jumper in the service connector to get the codes.
Kinda confused

the video posted shows a FI Indicator and Oil indicator on the LCD below the Trip Mileage, than you also have the oil light across from the rev light




also if it helps this is also what i'm dealing with, the original owner really did a bad hack job







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post #13 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 05:41 PM
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the oil light is what blinks the FI codes.

the FI indicator (not a light) on the dash indicates that the FI system is powered up and good to go.


4:55 in this video shows what should happen when you have the kill switch set to run and turn the key on. see the FI on the dash come on, then go away? does yours do that?

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post #14 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
the oil light is what blinks the FI codes.

the FI indicator (not a light) on the dash indicates that the FI system is powered up and good to go.


4:55 in this video shows what should happen when you have the kill switch set to run and turn the key on. see the FI on the dash come on, then go away? does yours do that?

No FI indicator

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post #15 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 06:06 PM
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then your ecu is not powering up.


check that you are getting 12v into and out of the kill switch

check that your bank angle sensor is properly bypassed


when you toggle the kill switch, the engine stop relay should click (put your finger on the relay and cycle the kill switch, it should be obvious)

if the relay doesn't click, there's a problem with the kill switch/bas circuit.
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post #16 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
then your ecu is not powering up.


check that you are getting 12v into and out of the kill switch

check that your bank angle sensor is properly bypassed


when you toggle the kill switch, the engine stop relay should click (put your finger on the relay and cycle the kill switch, it should be obvious)

if the relay doesn't click, there's a problem with the kill switch/bas circuit.
So my there's 2 wires to the switch, one white and one black

White wire read 13V and black wire read 11.81V

i don't think both are suppose to be having power though if i'm not mistaken

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post #17 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 06:46 PM
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white is power in, black is power out. if the switch is closed they'll both be energized.

the black goes to the engine stop relay (two reds, two blacks).


you could try to jump the engine stop relay. install a jumper on the contact side of the relay (the two larger gauge wires)
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post #18 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
white is power in, black is power out. if the switch is closed they'll both be energized.

the black goes to the engine stop relay (two reds, two blacks).


you could try to jump the engine stop relay. install a jumper on the contact side of the relay (the two larger gauge wires)
Could you elaborate

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post #19 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Tried jumpering. Still nothing. I’m starting to lean towards the wiring being badly botched.

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post #20 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 11:12 PM
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If jumping it didnt power up the EFI you need to make sure the separate 30 amp fuse is good. It's in its own holder by the battery. Not in the fusebox and not in the starter relay
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post #21 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 02:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
If jumping it didnt power up the EFI you need to make sure the separate 30 amp fuse is good. It's in its own holder by the battery. Not in the fusebox and not in the starter relay
Haven’t seen a 30a separate fuse

I see a 30a fuse with the starter relay and a small 20a fuse in a whitebox looking connector

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post #22 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 10:44 AM
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yes that's the FI fuse, sorry on other hondas it's a 30. i don't have an 06.


the FI relay (the one i told you to jumper) is powered separately from the key. it has constant 12v on it.


check for 12v on the red/white

to jumper the relay you need to connect the red/white to the black/white below it (if you're holding the relay connector and looking into the back of it where the wires go in and the locking tab facing up, it will be the two wires on the left hand side.)


this is the relay that is controlled by the kill switch and BAS. (the one i asked you to check if it was clicking)

the kill switch supplies 12v to the coil on the black wire from the kill switch, then the other red wire goes to the BAS where it gets grounded. to bypass the BAS you need to ground this red.



at this point, you have to figure out why your ECU is not powered (no FI indicator on the dash)


i can't really help you any further.



good luck.
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post #23 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 12:15 PM
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The fuel pump has it's own fuse which is located next to the battery, right side of bike, under riders seat. Check if that has blown.
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post #24 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 12:23 PM
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that's the fuse for the entire EFI system as i said in my previous post.
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post #25 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
yes that's the FI fuse, sorry on other hondas it's a 30. i don't have an 06.


the FI relay (the one i told you to jumper) is powered separately from the key. it has constant 12v on it.


check for 12v on the red/white

to jumper the relay you need to connect the red/white to the black/white below it (if you're holding the relay connector and looking into the back of it where the wires go in and the locking tab facing up, it will be the two wires on the left hand side.)


this is the relay that is controlled by the kill switch and BAS. (the one i asked you to check if it was clicking)

the kill switch supplies 12v to the coil on the black wire from the kill switch, then the other red wire goes to the BAS where it gets grounded. to bypass the BAS you need to ground this red.



at this point, you have to figure out why your ECU is not powered (no FI indicator on the dash)


i can't really help you any further.



good luck.
Thanks man

i jumped the fuel relay and the fuel pump kicked right on and the bike fired right up. FI indicator also appeared than went off.

Just cruising
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post #26 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 12:35 PM
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did you jump the fuel relay or the engine stop relay?

the fuel relay has browns and blacks on it, the engine stop has reds and blacks.



if jumping the engine stop relay (reds and blacks) fixed it, then your kill switch and BAS circuit is the problem.
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post #27 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
did you jump the fuel relay or the engine stop relay?

the fuel relay has browns and blacks on it, the engine stop has reds and blacks.



if jumping the engine stop relay (reds and blacks) fixed it, then your kill switch and BAS circuit is the problem.
Correction yea it was the engine stop relay with the Red and black wire. Jumped it and the fuel pump primed and bike started up than shutoff

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post #28 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 12:57 PM
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yeah so you have a problem in the kill switch and BAS circuit as i said originally. fix that first.

if the relay doesn't click when you toggle the kill switch, try a different relay (you can use the high beam relay), if it still doesn't click then verify power on the black wire at the relay when the kill switch is set to run. if you have power there then verify ground on the red wire at the BAS. that's all there is to it.


i've outlined everything you need to know in this post. if you get confused read it again. i've spent way too long on this. you have what you need. just read and do it please.
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post #29 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
yeah so you have a problem in the kill switch and BAS circuit as i said originally. fix that first.

if the relay doesn't click when you toggle the kill switch, try a different relay (you can use the high beam relay), if it still doesn't click then verify power on the black wire at the relay when the kill switch is set to run. if you have power there then verify ground on the red wire at the BAS. that's all there is to it.


i've outlined everything you need to know in this post. if you get confused read it again. i've spent way too long on this. you have what you need. just read and do it please.
I'm leaning on the entire sub harness being bad as half of all of the wires have been spliced or added onto to the point where even looking at the wiring diagram i have isn't helpful. So i'm going to get a new sub harness and kill switch (kill 2 birds with one stone) and see if the permanently fixes the issue

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post #30 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Tried to post a video

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