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06 CBR600RR Cranks But Does't Fire

19K views 71 replies 5 participants last post by  Wazoo 
#1 ·
Alright guys, i have a 2006 CBR600RR project bike that i've been trying to get going as it was a dude when i got it. So far i've been able to get the bike to turn over but it doesn't fire up. When the ignition (ignition was replaced with one off of ebay) is turned to the on position all lights operate just fine but the fuel pump does not prime. I run 12V directly to the pump and it primed just fine which tells me it's not the pump.

BAS has been bypassed
Kickstand switch has been bypassed
Neutral Safety switch tested good
No blown fuses

I'm stomped on what it could be as i've tried many things to get the bike to fire up to no avail. Any suggestions


Ignition harness (I found it weird that the switch connector has 4 wires where as the bike harness only has 2. Is that correct)



 
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#4 ·
The fi light will come on only for a few seconds then go out when you turn the kill switch to run

If it doesn't do this then your engine stop relay is not on (controlled by kill switch and bank angle sensor) and your ecu is not powered up.


The ecu has nothing to do with the starter motor circuit. So even with the ecu powered down, the bike may crank.


Check the FI fuse as well as the switches in the engine stop circuit if you don't get the few seconds of FI light.
 
#7 ·
also, you should not have bypassed the kickstand switch.


remove the bypass, and with the bike in neutral the FI lamp will read off any codes to you. (it will blink like it does in the video i posted when the bike is in neutral, and sidestand is down), with the sidestand up it will stay solid.




if there are any codes related to the fuel injection system, the bike will not prime the pump for safety reasons.
 
#9 · (Edited)
the oil symbol IS the fi lamp. did you watch the video i posted?


with the bike in neutral and kickstand down, the light will blink off any codes. if there are no codes it will come on for a few seconds then go out.


i'm not 100% on the 06, but all hondas seem to do this. if it won't, install a jumper in the service connector between the brown and green wires.
 
#10 ·
the oil symbol IS the fi lamp. did you watch the video i posted?


with the bike in neutral and kickstand down, the light will blink off any codes. if there are no codes it will come on for a few seconds then go out.
What i meant is the FI light does not appear only the oil lamp i believe which is directly next to where the FI light is suppose illuminate
 
#12 ·
Kinda confused

the video posted shows a FI Indicator and Oil indicator on the LCD below the Trip Mileage, than you also have the oil light across from the rev light




also if it helps this is also what i'm dealing with, the original owner really did a bad hack job






 
#13 ·
the oil light is what blinks the FI codes.

the FI indicator (not a light) on the dash indicates that the FI system is powered up and good to go.


4:55 in this video shows what should happen when you have the kill switch set to run and turn the key on. see the FI on the dash come on, then go away? does yours do that?

 
#15 ·
then your ecu is not powering up.


check that you are getting 12v into and out of the kill switch

check that your bank angle sensor is properly bypassed


when you toggle the kill switch, the engine stop relay should click (put your finger on the relay and cycle the kill switch, it should be obvious)

if the relay doesn't click, there's a problem with the kill switch/bas circuit.
 
#17 ·
white is power in, black is power out. if the switch is closed they'll both be energized.

the black goes to the engine stop relay (two reds, two blacks).


you could try to jump the engine stop relay. install a jumper on the contact side of the relay (the two larger gauge wires)
 
#22 ·
yes that's the FI fuse, sorry on other hondas it's a 30. i don't have an 06.


the FI relay (the one i told you to jumper) is powered separately from the key. it has constant 12v on it.


check for 12v on the red/white

to jumper the relay you need to connect the red/white to the black/white below it (if you're holding the relay connector and looking into the back of it where the wires go in and the locking tab facing up, it will be the two wires on the left hand side.)


this is the relay that is controlled by the kill switch and BAS. (the one i asked you to check if it was clicking)

the kill switch supplies 12v to the coil on the black wire from the kill switch, then the other red wire goes to the BAS where it gets grounded. to bypass the BAS you need to ground this red.



at this point, you have to figure out why your ECU is not powered (no FI indicator on the dash)


i can't really help you any further.



good luck.
 
#28 ·
yeah so you have a problem in the kill switch and BAS circuit as i said originally. fix that first.

if the relay doesn't click when you toggle the kill switch, try a different relay (you can use the high beam relay), if it still doesn't click then verify power on the black wire at the relay when the kill switch is set to run. if you have power there then verify ground on the red wire at the BAS. that's all there is to it.


i've outlined everything you need to know in this post. if you get confused read it again. i've spent way too long on this. you have what you need. just read and do it please.
 
#29 ·
I'm leaning on the entire sub harness being bad as half of all of the wires have been spliced or added onto to the point where even looking at the wiring diagram i have isn't helpful. So i'm going to get a new sub harness and kill switch (kill 2 birds with one stone) and see if the permanently fixes the issue
 
#32 ·
I left the battery on the charger all night, went out this morning and the bike started right up and ran until it shut off again. So now I think my issue maybe the battery as the voltage tested with a meter dropped to 6V when the bike was on.

Crazy as I bought the battery 1 week ago
 
#33 ·
What is your stator output? With the bike running and the stator unplugged check the three stator wires with a multimeter set to AC volts. The V with the ~ over it.

If the wires are a, b, and c check volts from a to b, b to c, and c to a. At idle there should be around 20, at 5000 there should be around 50.


If there isn't then your stator is bad.

If the stator tests good then check the output from your rectifier by checking terminal voltage at the battery while running. Should be around 13 at idle and around 14.5 at 5000 rpm.

Replacing a battery without checking the charging system is a bad plan.
 
#34 · (Edited)
When i did check the Stator i checked on DC volts as one of the videos i saw suggested DC not AC in turn it sat at 16 DC volts. As of right now i can't test it as the battery is completely dead.

Also even with no load and just turned on the battery volts drop really fast

I also noticed when the bike was running it didn't seem like battery was charging. Voltage was around 13.2V with no changes
 
#36 ·
Alright so i tested again on AC

At idle meter read 18.5V and at 5K RPM it read 55V


Something i found a little weird. If i disconnect the stator and r/r the bike continues to run even with load but as soon as i connect the two back the bike runs and the battery almost immediately dies
 
#43 ·
I wouldn't change the stator unless it was proven to be bad.

If you want, pull the cover and look for darkening of the insulation. If it looks good I'd leave it.

Generally speaking windings are either good or not good. There's no reason to replace a perfectly healthy stator.
 
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