HELP! Upper fairing/Headlight Removal - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2007, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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Question HELP! Upper fairing/Headlight Removal

I'm trying to swap upper fairings. I can't get the 3 upper screws/bolt that hold in the headlight. The 2 on the upper and outter portion of each headlight are tight but spin and spin and never back out???? Is there something weird about these honda uppers I've never seen before? I don't get it. I also cant get to the small one in the middle just under the "3rd eye" because the small screws holding what I think is the tip over sensor are sooo tight its stripping the screws. Like they really need to be that tight to hold a .5lbs piece of plastic and wire anyways. Any hints on how to help? I'm about to just drill them all out.

What I though would take 20 min is now going on a hour and a half.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2007, 07:20 PM
 
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Those things suck! You gotta put alot of down pressure with a medium/large screw driver then make STRONG, short ¼ turn bursts to start loosening.
If it's spinning without backing out, you're screwed.
I used some pliers to hold down the gold threads that are in the plastic and managed to unscrew it.
It's hard to explain, that's all I can think of in words, lol....Good luck.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2007, 07:23 PM
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if you're just trying to remove the upper fairing, you really don't need to unscrew the headlights just yet. there should be 6 bolts, 3 on the left and 3 on the right side of the upper fairing... then there should be another couple of plastic clips that mount the upper to the radiator... finally, you need to remove the rear view mirrors to remove the upper fairing from the upper stay... or, you could just remove the 2 bolts that hold the upper stay to the frame... from there you should be able to remove the whole front....

as for the 2 super tight screws, i know what you're talking about... there should be 2 screws that hold the sensor in... i assume that those are the ones that are super tight... to the left and right of those screws should be another screw that hold a plate on... if you want, you can try and remove those screws instead to remove the screw behind the third eye.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2007, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I was afraid the threads were spinning inside the plastic. But how do you hold down threads that are inside the plastic? I can only see the washer spin between the headlight assembly and the upper plastic mount.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2007, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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alfaflight, no I'm replacing the upper. It's already off. That was the easy part, only took a minute.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2007, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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I just tried both sets of screws adjacent to the BAS to get to the last screw under the third eye. Both sets are on so tight they are striping. This is ridiculous.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2007, 07:32 PM
 
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lol, I cant rememeber exactly what I did, it was last year.
I had the mounting tab from the upper broken off and was stuck on the top left of the headlight.
The screw would only spin and not come out. I know I grabbed it with something, either cutter/pliers/vice grip....something and got it out.
But I think it was short needle nose from underneath the mounting tab.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2007, 07:34 PM
 
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Push down HARD!!! and then turn REALLY HARD REALLY QUICK But only a short turn so you dont strip. Like slip the clutch really fast.
I had alot of my body weight on it while I broke it loose.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2007, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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I got one of the screws next to the BAS going just to find out they put a nut on the back that spins with it. Why would anyone put a nut back againts the plastic where you cant grab it or put a wrench on it. I'm starting to think as good as the honda's ride, they put them together so only honda techs can work on them and charge big $. I guess I'm going to just slap it back on and make them remove the headlights. Don't know what else to do. I'd break off the tabs but it's still a good upper, just a little crack next to the air dam
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-13-2007, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone else have any ideas, I don't really feel like going to the dealership and looking like an idiot. Thanks guys.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-13-2007, 11:52 AM
 
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PICS! :P, maybe I should go tear my front end down...
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-13-2007, 04:19 PM
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hey man,
in regards to the bolt behind the plate, i know what you mean. if you have relatively small fingers you can put your finger to hold the bolt in place so that you can unscrew the top with a screw driver. do that on both sides and you should be able to remove the angle sensor... give it a shot... it should work cus i've done it...
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-13-2007, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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I'll give it a shot, but really who came up w/ that idea?
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-10-2007, 06:34 PM
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I need some help dealing with these samebolts also. What did you do to fix it.

"For me, the problem is that big part of MotoGP riders now are pussies,"Rossi declared. "In the past, this is normal, the riders were more like real men. Now it is more like they are children."

http://www.youtube.com/user/bobbybrown3022
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