Gearing Ratios and Speedo Correction Percentages - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-25-2010, 02:42 AM Thread Starter
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Gearing Ratios and Speedo Correction Percentages

I have seen a few posts recently about speedo correction factors and gearing so I thought I would post up a chart that shows exactly what percentage error you will have for a given sprocket size.

If you have no idea about what gearing you would like and how it will affect your bike it is also worth noting that the percentage in the chart can be applied to your top speed and RPM for a given speed.

A couple of examples:
If you used to run at about 5.5k rpm doing 80kph and you do a -1/+2 conversion on your 03 your new rpm will be about 6k rpm (10.4% increase)
If your top speed was 167mph on your 03 and you do the -1/+2 conversion you new top speed will be around 150mph (10.4% decrease).

The math to work this out for yourself is nice and easy, here is the equation:

% = 100 * (A - B) / A

Where A is the stock gear ratio, A = (# of front teeth / # of rear teeth)
which for your 03 -06 would be (16 / 43) = 0.372093
and for your 07-10 would be (16 / 42) = 0.380952

Where B is the new gear ratio, B = (new # of front teeth / new # of rear teeth)


I have also attached the spreadsheet this screen capture is of if anyone is interested, you just have to unzip it.

Hope someone finds this helpful.



I thought I'd add this post from rr3 just for a little more info on gearing ratios and the like:


Quote:
Originally Posted by rr3 View Post
I think most of this has been covered in the various other threads on this topic but, here we go:

What will each type of change do?

Generally speaking:

If you drop teeth on the front sprocket, or go up teeth on the rear sprocket, then it will give you greater acceleration.

If you go up teeth on the front sprocket, or down teeth on the rear sprocket, then it will give you a higher top speed, at the expense of worse acceleration

A change of one tooth at the front is roughly equivalent to going almost three teeth, in the opposite direction, on the back. e.g. -1 at the front is almost equivalent to +3 on the rear.

If you go -1 at the front and -3 on the rear then its really a waste of time and the change will, to a certain extent, cancel each other out.

Here is a useful website where you can input your bike and it will show you the effects of just about any gearing change you can dream up.

www.gearingcommander.com

Does it give me more horespower?
Changing your gearing doesn't give you any more hp, it just plays about with the rpm you'll be running at certain speeds, in certain gears (you can move the power to where you need it).

Type of Sprockets:
Front sprockets will always be steel. Usually, you will have three main choices of rear sprocket material:

- Aluminium
- Steel
- Hybrid (steel teeth/aluminium centre)

Steel sprockets should be more durable, at the expense of being a little heavier with less efficient power delivery to the rear wheel (more mass for the engine to turn).

Aluminum sprockets are said to be less durable but are much lighter than steel, allowing more efficient power delivery to the rear wheel (less mass for the engine to turn).

Hybrid sprockets attempt to offer the middle ground between the two; providing good durability and a reduction in mass over an all steel rear sprocket.

Chain:
If you are changing your gearing then it makes sense to change your chain at the same time. Using an old chain on new sprockets can increase wear. In any event, your old chain may not be long enough for the new sprockets anyway.

Side effects:
If you change your gearing then it will mess up the calibration of your speedo and, therefore, your odometer.

This can be fixed by purchasing and programming a corrective device like a Speedohealer, or SpeedoDRD.

You can work out the exact calibration value using a radar gun, dyno or, if you are of a masochistic ilk, speed cameras/police officers!

There are also tools on the following websites where you input the details of your bike and the gearing changes and it will give you a calibration value to input into your chosen correction device.

SpeedoDRD; or
Speedohealer

Another side effect of gearing changes is that, by chasing acceleration, your fuel consumption may suffer (You will be higher in the rev range more often).

Most common changes for a CBR600RR:
The most common change of gearing for the CBR600RR has to be going down one tooth at the front sprocket and up two teeth at the rear (-1/+2). This gives a noticeable increase in acceleration whilst still maintaining a reasonable top speed.

520 Conversion?
Many users will also convert to a 520 pitch chain and sprocket set ("520 conversion"). The bike comes stock with a 525 pitch chain and sprocket set. You can only use a 520 pitch chain with 520 pitch sprockets and you can only use a 525 pitch chain with 525 pitch sprockets.

The main reason for going to 520 pitch is that the chain, in particular, will be smaller and lighter. This reduces the rotational mass in the drivetrain. The theory is that this will allow a greater transmission of engine power to the rear wheel, as less energy is sapped in turning the chain and sprockets themselves.

Some fear that a 520 pitch chain is too small and weak to handle a 600cc sportsbike. The quoted strength of the higher quality 520 pitch chains is, however, more than enough to actually handle most 1000c bikes, let alone 600s.
Attached Files
File Type: zip gearing.zip (5.3 KB, 1083 views)

Last edited by Nico; 07-11-2011 at 04:37 AM. Reason: Add quote
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post #2 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-25-2010, 03:48 PM
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Great chart. Pretty on-par with what I have found with my -1/+2 gearing. This doesn't take into account speedo inaccuracy from the factory, which while worse on bikes like Ninja 250s where the speedo sensor is on the front wheel, it can still be +/- a few % off.

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post #3 of 62 (permalink) Old 07-26-2010, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
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I wasn't aiming to account for factory error margins, just those created by changing sprocket sizes from standard.
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post #4 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-05-2010, 10:52 PM
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This should be made a sticky!

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post #5 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks mate!
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post #6 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 08:41 AM
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If I remember correctly... I think I have read many times that the factory speedo error is about 5%-10% faster than actual GPS readings.... also that the factory error is done intentionally especially on bikes.

I don't know for sure since I have not tried testing my bike with a GPS yet.

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5%-10% sounds about right, but it will vary depending on how worn the drive train is so personally I'm happy to leave the factory error in there. Might get out the gps and see how far out it is though - job for tomorrow
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post #8 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 09:06 AM
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with my 15/43 (-1, +1) on my 07rr

the GPS reading was 88kmh when my speedo said I was going 100kmh

that is a -12% difference...

just to give an idea on the factory speedo error

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post #9 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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3% from factory isn't bad...
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post #10 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-23-2010, 03:31 PM
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Good post thanks Nico

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post #11 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-23-2010, 06:14 PM
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Is there anyway to recalibrate speedo once you do a sprocket change?
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post #12 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-23-2010, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haf2race View Post
Is there anyway to recalibrate speedo once you do a sprocket change?
thats what the speedo healer / speedo drd are for.


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I just cal'd my 06 -1/+2 with GPS and mine was of by -17%!
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post #14 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-23-2010, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkeets View Post
I just cal'd my 06 -1/+2 with GPS and mine was of by -17%!
sounds about right man...mines gotta be off by about that much...doing it tonight.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05'Scorpion View Post
sounds about right man...mines gotta be off by about that much...doing it tonight.

Hope you have better luck then I did today when i did mine. I got stuck in a sick down pour on the way home that came from no where! I was freaking out since I did the ram air MOD and thought water for sure was going to get into my intake!!! And the GPS I used was a little jumpy so I had to work really hard to maintain 60 on the road...
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post #16 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-23-2010, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
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Hope you have better luck then I did today when i did mine. I got stuck in a sick down pour on the way home that came from no where! I was freaking out since I did the ram air MOD and thought water for sure was going to get into my intake!!! And the GPS I used was a little jumpy so I had to work really hard to maintain 60 on the road...

while not 100%

i used the bike speedo as the "hold it" at mark, did 60 on bike held it there, did some math, found that 60 mph on gps would be roughly 72 mph on the bike

held 72mph on the freeway, and sure enough, boom, i had 60 on gps, went home used my numbers and setup the speedo drd, am now within 1mph of gps at all times.


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post #17 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-23-2010, 09:35 PM
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Very useful chart. Thanks for sharing

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post #18 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-23-2010, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenjin View Post
while not 100%

i used the bike speedo as the "hold it" at mark, did 60 on bike held it there, did some math, found that 60 mph on gps would be roughly 72 mph on the bike

held 72mph on the freeway, and sure enough, boom, i had 60 on gps, went home used my numbers and setup the speedo drd, am now within 1mph of gps at all times.
That's about what I found. Mine showed 73 while at 60.6 on the gps... Haven't had a chance to check it but sounds like I don't need to now.
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post #19 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-24-2010, 12:28 PM
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Did a side by side with my buddy on his 954 which is pretty accurate....Im within 2 mph or so at any speed...any way to correct this last little bit so its dead on at every speed?

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You will have to get a GPS but even then it won't be spot on due to the rounded speeds your speedo shows. A GPS will give you decibel values where as your speedo just gives you whole numbers which have to be rounded to. There for exact accuracy is I'm possible unless you have a radar detector and a GPS with both showing decibel values... So moral of the story is that 1-2 mph's off is pretty good and going more in depth isn't really worth the trouble(in my opinion anyways)...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkeets View Post
You will have to get a GPS but even then it won't be spot on due to the rounded speeds your speedo shows. A GPS will give you decibel values where as your speedo just gives you whole numbers which have to be rounded to. There for exact accuracy is I'm possible unless you have a radar detector and a GPS with both showing decibel values... So moral of the story is that 1-2 mph's off is pretty good and going more in depth isn't really worth the trouble(in my opinion anyways)...
pretty much agreed...sides that im happy its close...been going 15-20 over for the past year +....no tickets

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"I think I have read many times that the factory speedo error is about 5%-10% faster than actual GPS readings..."

is the factory speedo really off by 5-10%?? wouldn't that mean that out bikes have 5-10% more miles on the odometer then they really have? if so wouldn't it be a good idea to buy a speedo healer just to hell protect the value of your bike? 5-10% just seems kinda high. if a bike had 10% speedo error, and the odometer read 15,000 mi then the bike would only have 13,500 mi, that doesn't seem right
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Quote:
Originally Posted by will'sRR View Post
"I think I have read many times that the factory speedo error is about 5%-10% faster than actual GPS readings..."

is the factory speedo really off by 5-10%?? wouldn't that mean that out bikes have 5-10% more miles on the odometer then they really have? if so wouldn't it be a good idea to buy a speedo healer just to hell protect the value of your bike? 5-10% just seems kinda high. if a bike had 10% speedo error, and the odometer read 15,000 mi then the bike would only have 13,500 mi, that doesn't seem right
you can use that info to your benefit if you were a buyer...but your right on that....either way i didnt buy my bike to keep the miles down....
buddy of mine has an 03' with 70K+ on the original motor...these puppies will keep going long as you treat them right!

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post #24 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-24-2010, 09:15 PM
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Sounds like it may be one of those things like getting a dyno map. Where every bike is different and generic values get you close but nothing like a custom map due to every bike being different. The values of the speedo come preset from factory so they have some generic value programed and the only way to get it on the button is to calibrate it yourself, ya know...
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post #25 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkeets View Post
You will have to get a GPS but even then it won't be spot on due to the rounded speeds your speedo shows. A GPS will give you decibel values where as your speedo just gives you whole numbers which have to be rounded to. There for exact accuracy is I'm possible unless you have a radar detector and a GPS with both showing decibel values... So moral of the story is that 1-2 mph's off is pretty good and going more in depth isn't really worth the trouble(in my opinion anyways)...
What the?

Please don't take offence at the following:

GPS does not give speed in dB. What the hell would be the use of that? Can you imagine the conversation :

Cop: "hey mate do you know how fast you were going?"
Rider: "yep, I was going 17.4dB mph!"
Cop: "WTF?!? You were doing 55! Now your doing a drug test!"
Rider: "What a drug test!? But I told you that I was doing 55mph!"
Cop: "Sure buddy, sure."

GPS (SiRF 3 and the like) all output NMEA 0183, the speed is in the VTG sentence which is in this format:

$xxVTG,aaa.a,T,bbb.b,M,ccc.c,N,ddd.d,K*ee

Where:

xx - GP or LC depending on if your outputting loran or not
aaa.a, T - true bearing
bbb.b, M - magnetic bearing
ccc.c, N - speed in knots (nautical miles / hour)
ddd.d, K - speed in kilometres / hour
ee - checksum

Care to continue discussing GPS? I'm game!

Last edited by Nico; 08-25-2010 at 08:55 AM.
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post #26 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 08:39 AM
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Wow, no no no... I was referring to the numeric value after the decibel position. As in .0 tenths, .00 hundredths, & .000 thousandths. 05'Scorpion was asking how to get the speedo spot on and all I was saying was that would be impossible using the bikes speedo due to it displaying rounded whole number values rather then numbers in the tenths, hundredths, or thousandths to give more precise calculations. The speedohealer uses your gauged bike speed in ratio to you actual speed(GPS) to determine your correction percentage. So if you have your gauges telling you your at 73mph and gps saying your at 60.6mph you could get a more accurate reading if your gauges told you were at 73.4mph instead of just rounding and showing 73mph. So if you want a more accurate setup you need to be able to get more accurate numbers with decibel positions... Hope that clears that up. Nico you made me believe I was crazy there for a second! LMAO
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post #27 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 08:43 AM
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Decimal!!!!! I swear I graduated high school!!!! Wow, what can I say but Oppps.....
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post #28 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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Ah now I get it!

You confused the hell out of me for a minute with the whole dB thing then I re-read it and figured you actually meant dB, decimal didn't even cross my mind.

I really don't think that there would be any point to getting your speedo THAT accurate any way, cause its going to change as your tire wears...

Ah well glad that is cleared up!
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post #29 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-26-2010, 10:23 PM
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Ya if your gonna get pulled over will prob be for more than 1-2 mph


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Ah now I get it!

You confused the hell out of me for a minute with the whole dB thing then I re-read it and figured you actually meant dB, decimal didn't even cross my mind.

I really don't think that there would be any point to getting your speedo THAT accurate any way, cause its going to change as your tire wears...

Ah well glad that is cleared up!

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PARTS FOR SALE: https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=204160
05'Scorpion is offline  
post #30 of 62 (permalink) Old 08-26-2010, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico View Post
What the?

Please don't take offence at the following:

GPS does not give speed in dB. What the hell would be the use of that? Can you imagine the conversation :

Cop: "hey mate do you know how fast you were going?"
Rider: "yep, I was going 17.4dB mph!"
Cop: "WTF?!? You were doing 55! Now your doing a drug test!"
Rider: "What a drug test!? But I told you that I was doing 55mph!"
Cop: "Sure buddy, sure."

GPS (SiRF 3 and the like) all output NMEA 0183, the speed is in the VTG sentence which is in this format:

$xxVTG,aaa.a,T,bbb.b,M,ccc.c,N,ddd.d,K*ee

Where:

xx - GP or LC depending on if your outputting loran or not
aaa.a, T - true bearing
bbb.b, M - magnetic bearing
ccc.c, N - speed in knots (nautical miles / hour)
ddd.d, K - speed in kilometres / hour
ee - checksum

Care to continue discussing GPS? I'm game!
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkeets View Post
Wow, no no no... I was referring to the numeric value after the decibel position. As in .0 tenths, .00 hundredths, & .000 thousandths. 05'Scorpion was asking how to get the speedo spot on and all I was saying was that would be impossible using the bikes speedo due to it displaying rounded whole number values rather then numbers in the tenths, hundredths, or thousandths to give more precise calculations. The speedohealer uses your gauged bike speed in ratio to you actual speed(GPS) to determine your correction percentage. So if you have your gauges telling you your at 73mph and gps saying your at 60.6mph you could get a more accurate reading if your gauges told you were at 73.4mph instead of just rounding and showing 73mph. So if you want a more accurate setup you need to be able to get more accurate numbers with decibel positions... Hope that clears that up. Nico you made me believe I was crazy there for a second! LMAO
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkeets View Post
Decimal!!!!! I swear I graduated high school!!!! Wow, what can I say but Oppps.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico View Post
Ah now I get it!

You confused the hell out of me for a minute with the whole dB thing then I re-read it and figured you actually meant dB, decimal didn't even cross my mind.

I really don't think that there would be any point to getting your speedo THAT accurate any way, cause its going to change as your tire wears...

Ah well glad that is cleared up!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 05'Scorpion View Post
Ya if your gonna get pulled over will prob be for more than 1-2 mph
alll i can say is....

ROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOR OFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAORO FLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROF LMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFL MAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLM AOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMAOROFLMA OROFLMAOROFLMAO


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