I currently use rotella t6 in my 08 cbr600. I'm not meaning to start a war over this lol but the other day i was with my buddies and they started this whole debate about how rotella t6 isnt for our bikes. EVEN though its jasco certified, and that reading off forums of people saying its fine "doesnt matter". " turbo diesel synth oil isnt made for bikes..its made for diesels". I'm kind of tired of hearing 2 different sides. So anyone possibly have any factual proof that this oil is ok? Maybe its a cruiser thing, but they all like to flame me for it
I personally haven't used it in my 600rr yet but have many years of use with it in my CRF 450R in both the engine side and the clutch/transmission. In fact the after market clutch I run (rekluse) recommends it.
I'm planning on running it in my 600 on the next oil change. Do a search on here and you'll see that some have many, many miles with no problems on the stuff.
thats what I said. but nooooo, its still not made for our bikes. apparently it doesnt lube up the clutch as well as mobile or any other oil specifically for our bikes
It's fine. It's not marketed as sexy stuff, but if you think about it... how good does oil need to be to go into long haul, million mile rigs? Pretty dang good. All the motorcycle specific oil is good too. I'd use any of it. A motorcycle will rot away, explode, be crashed, or otherwise become KIA long before oil becomes the weak link of a bike. And the difference between going 225,000 miles and 232,000 miles is too small to justify much expense over.
My hot oil tipz:
1. don't use the cheapest s you can find
2. don't use the second cheapest s you can find
3. don't use friction modifier oil or other weird stuff
295,000 miles, 11 trackdays, and running strong on the original clutch, that's the only proof I have that it's A-OK. Now I haven't run the T6 exclusively, but I did use it for quite some time without a single problem and it's still going strong to this day. Come to think of it, I haven't used a "motorcycle specific" oil in this bike since it had 5000 miles on it. So there ya go!
Yet people still argue with me that my oil is inferior and won't work in a bike :retard:
Omg... can you PLEASE do a blackstone labs test on your bike next oil change? I would love to see what the inside of that engine is like at close to 300k miles. What an unbelievable accomplishment.
295,000 miles, 11 trackdays, and running strong on the original clutch, that's the only proof I have that it's A-OK. Now I haven't run the T6 exclusively, but I did use it for quite some time without a single problem and it's still going strong to this day. Come to think of it, I haven't used a "motorcycle specific" oil in this bike since it had 5000 miles on it. So there ya go!
Yet people still argue with me that my oil is inferior and won't work in a bike :retard:
No, T6 is bad for the 600RR and other motorcycle engines.
That's why you never hear anyone have issues with it for thousands of miles...
Myself I used Rotella exclusively for over 30k miles, and my RR ran like it was brand new the day I sold it.
I remember the first time I told someone about running that oil they went crazy on me.. I've been running Mobil 1 but I think I'm gonna change. I didn't see the JASO rating on the back like it used to have
This oil thing is way, way, overthought. Diesel oil has a low ash additive, in other words it prevents carbon buildup more-so than conventional. Big rigs and the transit bus and tractors and Diesel engine in general runs hundreds of thousands of miles constantly and use this formula because of the intense mileage they put on.
Oil cushions, lubricates, cools, drives gears through pressure.
If you change your oil in a timely matter, you're doing your job.
I use Rotella in my high mileage truck and subaru too because why the hell not... It's affordable and it's ashless dispersant.
I've checked out most Diesel oils here at Supercheap, and none of them are JASO MA or JASO MA2.
However, having a look at the Penrite site, they claim:
HPR DIESEL 15 is recommended for use in petrol, light duty diesel engines, LPG/Dual fuel & four stroke motorcycles including those with wet clutches. It is also suitable for use in petrol and LPG engines as a mixed fleet oil. It is NOT suitable for use in diesels fitted with a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter).
However, it isn't JASO MA or MA2.
KEY SPECIFICATIONS:
API CI-4 PLUS/SL
ACEA A3/B4/E7
Ford M2C171-C/153-F/153-G
JASO DH-1
MB 228.3/229.3
Oil will forever be a debate as there is very little evidence anywhere of oil damaging something unless it was never changed or the intervals were 3 or 4 times longer than recommended, no matter what the vehicle was. People who state (other than Jared!!!) I've used X oil and it works fine aren't telling you anything unless they've had engines inspected for wear or MANY miles on it. I get a kick out of people with 5,000 miles on their bike telling someone that's all they've used, that should be one oil change on a bike not even fully broken in yet!!!
Also everyone and every shop thinks that one type, style, color, texture, flavor, etc. is better than another and will live and die by that no matter what. They only thing you need to be careful of are the friction modifying additives in your wet clutch and then only if it becomes an issue, generally it affects more on worn clutches and higher horsepower motors anyway. And simply changing back will restore its operation.
Use whatever you feel comfortable with and stop worrying and listening to you friends. I personally don't like T6 because it turns very black and feels very watery to me after a couple thousand miles and I don't like that. Note I didn't say it stops protecting, I'm simply saying how it feels while draining. I use a reasonably priced semi-synthetic oil I'm happy with and have over 100,000 miles on various bikes using it and am happy with that.
Are you sure? What is the price of an engine un-installation, case split, break down, parts replacement, re-assembly, and re-installation? Is it more expensive than a different, used engine? This isn't an aircraft engine. Usage of OEM engines is not measured in hours, it's measured in distance, which is a big distinction. There's enough buffer room built into a stock engine to make this kind of analysis redundant.
edit: Didn't see your second reply. So we're more on the same page then.
T6 in my track bikes and TDI Jetta.
I've yet to read of anyone having any issue running this oil in the bikes. Or the diesel VW's.
Until I see some proof of failure due to the oil, I'm staying with it.
If those large industrial trucks and tractors running turbo's can use it, my little motor can handle it as I pussyfoot around the track lol.
I'm currently running Liqui Moly 10W30 Racing oil in my supersport spec engine, so far so good & it's also endorsed by Honda in Germany. Not gonna try non-motorcycle specific oils in my engines, too expensive to gamble on stuff that isn't made for our bikes.
I've used diesel engine oil on an R6 before but only for flushing as it got flooded inside with water, after 2 flushes I poured in motorcycle engine oil.
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