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Oil and Lube For discussion of engine oil and lubrication

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post #31 of 381 (permalink) Old 06-23-2006, 03:15 PM
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so about how many quarts does a 600rr use?
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post #32 of 381 (permalink) Old 06-23-2006, 03:25 PM
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3.1................


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post #33 of 381 (permalink) Old 06-23-2006, 08:41 PM
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so 3.1? man i pour a lil bit too much. i think i pour like 3.3 or 3.4. will it affect anything or can i just drain some of it?
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post #34 of 381 (permalink) Old 06-23-2006, 09:15 PM
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Where is the oil level when both tires are on the ground and the bike is balanced and level? Is the level between the high and low mark in the oil site glass? Make sure you warm it up for a few minutes, shut it off, and let it sit for a minute before you check the oil level. If it's between the lines you're fine. If you have too much just drain some out.


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post #35 of 381 (permalink) Old 06-23-2006, 10:46 PM
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well i had it between the line, but when i start the bike, the oil went down so i thought it need it more so i shut off the biek and pour some more in. i pour it pass the upper line and start the bike. it stay between the line, but when i shut the bike off, hte level went up again and pass the upper line. i just drain some oil out to where when the bike is off, the oil is between the lines, but will disappear when i start the bike. so am i ok or do i need to pour more in?
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post #36 of 381 (permalink) Old 06-24-2006, 02:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irideslow
well i had it between the line, but when i start the bike, the oil went down so i thought it need it more so i shut off the biek and pour some more in. i pour it pass the upper line and start the bike. it stay between the line, but when i shut the bike off, hte level went up again and pass the upper line. i just drain some oil out to where when the bike is off, the oil is between the lines, but will disappear when i start the bike. so am i ok or do i need to pour more in?
when the bike is running...you shouldnt see any oil thru the oil level sight glass.
while the engine is off. hold the bike and stand the bike, up and level,
and check the sight glass....if the oil is within the full and
low line ...then youre fine.
(preferably you want the oil level right under the full line or close to it)






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post #37 of 381 (permalink) Old 06-24-2006, 06:48 AM
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Golden Spectro Supreme, (no price).

Ummmm, I distinctly remember seeing test results on Golden Spectro and they were pretty shitty. I think that is why Harley Guys use it.

I just buy Motul 5100 15W50. IT is the BEST stuff I ave ever bought for a bike. Then for the track I use the Motul 300v 10W50 (some name of the sort) which is full synthetic. I just could not pore some **** off a wal mart shelf into my bike.

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post #38 of 381 (permalink) Old 06-24-2006, 06:05 PM
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cool. thanks. but for some reason, my oil light is still on. but that doesnt matter.
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post #39 of 381 (permalink) Old 06-27-2006, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irideslow
cool. thanks. but for some reason, my oil light is still on. but that doesnt matter.
Is it flashing or staying on? Either way it's not a good thing. It is normal to stay on for a few seconds after startup though.


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post #40 of 381 (permalink) Old 06-30-2006, 11:21 AM
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does anyone know if shell rotella is a group IV or V synthetic?

if it's not, i suggest going with motul unless someone has a used oil analysis of shell rotella to prove me wrong.
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post #41 of 381 (permalink) Old 06-30-2006, 11:29 AM
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FYI!

i just noticed in this thread http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#Oil that the mobil 1 m1-110 can be used for motorcycles. so does this include the 600RR?

if so, i use the same m1-110 filter in my Acura RSX Type S. actually, i now use the STP oil filter for the RSX instead, because it protects just the same if not a little better than the much more expensive m1-110. the STP is only $2.99 at autozone!

so if we can use the m1-110 for our bike, then i suggest using the STP since it's wayyyyyy cheaper than the m1-110.
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post #42 of 381 (permalink) Old 06-30-2006, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyBarron
Oils aint oils....Ive used shell before it burns like canola in the engine.
it depends on the engine and bike though..

you and i may have the same bike, but that doesn't mean our engines will both consume the same amount of oil.
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post #43 of 381 (permalink) Old 08-10-2006, 12:54 PM
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What's wrong with using the Pro Honda GN4 10w-40 oil? I've got 5500 miles on my bike and that's what i've used for all of my oil changes!
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post #44 of 381 (permalink) Old 08-16-2006, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBR600RR_uel
FYI!

i just noticed in this thread http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#Oil that the mobil 1 m1-110 can be used for motorcycles. so does this include the 600RR?

if so, i use the same m1-110 filter in my Acura RSX Type S. actually, i now use the STP oil filter for the RSX instead, because it protects just the same if not a little better than the much more expensive m1-110. the STP is only $2.99 at autozone!

so if we can use the m1-110 for our bike, then i suggest using the STP since it's wayyyyyy cheaper than the m1-110.
I think I read somewhere that STP filters aren't that good anymore. Outsourcing to fram or something with cardboard crap. Can't remember for sure, so don't quote me on it. :D
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post #45 of 381 (permalink) Old 08-20-2006, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBR600RR_uel
does anyone know if shell rotella is a group IV or V synthetic?

if it's not, i suggest going with motul unless someone has a used oil analysis of shell rotella to prove me wrong.
Rotella is a gorup III. If you really want to make your head spin about oil, go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and you will be spending tons of time when shopping for oil.

Good luck. I warned you guys. ahha
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post #46 of 381 (permalink) Old 09-05-2006, 01:16 AM
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You want to hear somthing crazy?

I've ben using Motul 5100 Full Synth with no problems. The dealer ran out of Motul so I bought the Honda Full Synth again (I used to use it all the time). 1 Trackday and 2 canyon rides later my oil light came on.

I usually change my oil every trackday/ 3 months but this time I decided I would stick it out since my oil was a shade darker than honey. I checked my oil pre-ride and the level was fine. After the oil light came on I got off and took a look. The oil has started to seperate from the water!

I'm changing the oil tomorrow with some Motul!


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post #47 of 381 (permalink) Old 10-02-2006, 01:08 PM
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"Filling the oil: Remove the inspection cover from the tupperware, right panel just behind the cylinder heads. To do this take a small object, your key will do, and push the plastic retaining pin center stub in 1/8". Then the whole retaining pin will pop right out. Take the retaining pin apart. To put the retaining pin back in, put the female part into the plastic piece, then the center part last.The tupperware has a tab on the top. You'll figure it out. Now, remove the spark plug cover. It's the plastic piece about 8" long 3" wide on top of the cylinders. Pull up the back edge - it's held on with one rubber plug. Now, push the whole piece forwards 1/4". There are two little fingers on the front of the plastic piece that hook under. The oil fill is the obvious plastic knob right there. You will need a foot long funnel. Pour in 1 gallon and forget about measuring - this is correct."

What is the inspection cover? Im not at my bike right now but have no idea what this is. Do I need to take any fairings off to do change the oil?
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post #48 of 381 (permalink) Old 10-25-2006, 01:33 PM
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Anyone want to give me an opinion on using synthetic rather than petroleum?? Never used it yet and was considering for this lovely machine...lol. ('03 600RR).
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post #49 of 381 (permalink) Old 10-25-2006, 10:58 PM
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this may seem like a dumb question, but do any of you know how long you can store unopened containers of oil before it goes "bad"? Or does it not ever really go bad?
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post #50 of 381 (permalink) Old 10-26-2006, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deja_Vu
this may seem like a dumb question, but do any of you know how long you can store unopened containers of oil before it goes "bad"? Or does it not ever really go bad?
dude oil has been around for millions & millions of years so i think oil will stay that way for millions of years to come.


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post #51 of 381 (permalink) Old 10-26-2006, 04:49 PM
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oil in it's natural state, yes. but add polymers, etc to that oil and it's no longer just oil.
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post #52 of 381 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 03:45 PM
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Do they make rotella in 10/40 ....?
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post #53 of 381 (permalink) Old 11-26-2006, 03:56 PM
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I recently changed mine using the spectro gold synthetic, and now when I start my bike it ticks, it goes away after a minute or 2. Should I be worried?
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post #54 of 381 (permalink) Old 11-27-2006, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by envirocbr
I just buy Motul 5100 15W50. IT is the BEST stuff I ave ever bought for a bike. Then for the track I use the Motul 300v 10W50 (some name of the sort) which is full synthetic. I just could not pore some **** off a wal mart shelf into my bike.
+1

motul all the way!!! i also use 5100 for my street bikes and 300v for the track! definitly NOT cheap though... but hey, i've yet to hear any complaints about motul. that said, i'm currently okay with paying a premium for my oil.

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post #55 of 381 (permalink) Old 11-27-2006, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoIrish
I recently changed mine using the spectro gold synthetic, and now when I start my bike it ticks, it goes away after a minute or 2. Should I be worried?
Switch back to a 10W-40 weight oil. Most of the time the ticking is the CCT running "dry" until the oil gets up there. Slightly rev the bike on cold starts and it should go away immediately.


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post #56 of 381 (permalink) Old 02-18-2007, 03:25 PM
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I just changed my oil with Castrol R4 Superbike 5W-40, and what a difference. Its like riding a different bike. I will never run anything else again. Made everything so much smoother, the gearbox, vibrations, everything. Revs much easier now too.

First make an "S".............for snake, uh.................I mean.............dragon. Then a more different "S".
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post #57 of 381 (permalink) Old 02-18-2007, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saiyan66
I just changed my oil with Castrol R4 Superbike 5W-40, and what a difference. Its like riding a different bike. I will never run anything else again. Made everything so much smoother, the gearbox, vibrations, everything. Revs much easier now too.
i agree. im runnin that R4 5W40 right now. got jus about 800 miles with it so far.
i went straight to synthetic (Castrol Syntec) after the 600 mi break-in change.
then synthetic again on my next oil change. i wanted to see the difference, so i went back
to dino oil (conventional, non synthetic). now im back with synthetic (Castrol R4).
such a noticeable difference (felt the same as Castrol Syntec). just got some mobil-1
M1 10w40 for the next change. gonna try Shell Rotella, Amsoil and couple others in the next oil changes.






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post #58 of 381 (permalink) Old 03-11-2007, 11:01 AM
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I just changed my oil last week ( first time since I got the bike).. I went with a Mobil-1 filter ( size M-108) and Motul 5100 10w-40. All I can say is DAYUM she rides so much smoother and shifts so much smoother its crazy. Very happy with my choice.

Yeah, I'm paying out the butt for my filter choice, and also my Motul, which luckily was 25% off from Cycle Gear that day, but seriously, whats an extra $10 or $15 each oil change. I spend almost $40 a week on cigarettes and coffee. Its worth it IMO.
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post #59 of 381 (permalink) Old 03-13-2007, 03:06 AM
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i have a 03 cbr600 and havent changed my oil just got it about 2 weeks ago and need to change my oil it has a little over 20,000 miles and want to know what kind of oil what would be best for gas, performance, and all that good stuff when i bought the bike i recieved the Scotts stainless steel oil filter is that any good? please let me kno what you guys think thanks alot
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post #60 of 381 (permalink) Old 03-30-2007, 03:19 AM
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jdm.jdm.jdm.

JDM...

Last edited by JDM.mikee; 03-30-2007 at 03:34 AM.
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